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MG TD TF 1500 - 53 TD New Grill

I am thinking of having a new grill powder coated.
In the past mine have always started to rust. Be it from stones or damage putting it in.

Is there anythign to consider before dooing this?
Currently it is flat and I kknow it need a slight bend in the middle to match the Housing. Will this matter?
Louvers look to be correct for openness with plenty of air room. So no bending there. It also looks like the screws are SS but I dont see any lock washers? Will probably just get all new SS ones to be sure.

What am I looking at cost wise for powder coating?

Any heads up appreciated.
Rod


Rod Jones

The screws are just to hold it together during shipping. They are all removed, and the holes are slipped over the studs soldered to the inside of the shell, and attached with nuts/small lock washers. You may need to modify the lower end of the outer slats by bending or trimming a bit. Really take your time with the fit, as it is really the centerpiece of a T-series! Very nice reproduction, vastly better than those from years ago. George
George Butz III

My personal preference is for paint. The grill slats will eventually get scratches and chips, and it's MUCH easier to touch up or re-paint if you've sprayed it.
Steve Simmons

Thanks for the info...
I guess I could remove and re paint my existing slats/grill as it is only just rusty in a few places and one parted at the bottom, but I figured powder coat this one would give it a little more longevity.

If I have to modify this brute should I try to dry fit it first to get it to fit? Will it involve drilling holes through the powder coat if not?

It has been a very long time since I installed one.

Rod
Rod Jones

Iíll add to be very careful in bending the frame at the center I have many originals that are broke at the bottom center hole. Powdercoating is very durable and doesnít chip easily. I have smacked sheetmetal with multiple blows with a 4 pound hammer reforming body panels on the tub. It will deform but never did it chip off. Needless to say a four pound hammer would destroy the grill slats before it ever made contact. Thatís figuratively of course.

Finding a suitable color shade to fit your needs would be the biggest hurdle

Bill Chasser
TD-4834
W A Chasser

You may need to modify it a lot so positively fit before painting. Also, be very careful not to break off one of the shell studs. If the metal is cleaned to bare and properly primed, you shouldn't have any rust issues.
George Butz III

Well after repeated tried to get it powder coated. I could not get anyone to do the job.
They either only did industrial jobs or did not answer the phone and would not reply to left messages.
I gave up and painted it with rattle cans.

George. you were dead right about fitting it before painting. - It was way off conpaired with the positions of my soldered studs and I fould one of them broken loose. I cleaned the shell really well and rughened up the surface and used JB Weld to re attach it and also strengthend another one that moved with pressure.
After adjusting all the holes in the grill and giving a little wiggle room for Paint. I then submerged the slats in a bath filled with POR 15 Metal Clean for a couple of hours. Washed and dried it - then back in the bath filled with Metal Prep. Two more hours and a wash and dry - End result was a really good etched surface ready for paint. I used Krylon Paint + Primer Gloss Khaki. Which just happened to match my Connely Hide seats spot on.
This was the end result. There are about 10 thin coats of paint on the slats, one applied every 1/2 hour. It is quite hard after 24 hours. Temp here was 88F and 70% humidiy.
At least now I can get on with putting it all back together.
These replacment Slats are a lot wide open than the ones I took out and have a much better airodynamic shape. Which should be a good thing down here in S W florida.
Rod




Rod Jones

It is easy and inexpensive to get powder coating done in the UK. There must be over a dozen workshops in Glasgow that refurbish car wheels and they will bead blast and powder coat items. The one I use has converted a large shipping container into a blasting "cave" and has an ex roads department compressor parked outside. He did the TFs chassis in this, but I painted it rather than powder coating. He also has a blast cabinet that uses finer abrasive and less pressure and I had numerous bits from the TF either blasted and coated or simply blasted in this. The thing I am most pleased with is the firewall which was powder coated in exactly the correct shade of red. I can drop spanners on this without causing any damage. However the steel wheels were powdered and rust is showing where the inner part is rivetted to the rim. Powder coating becomes thioxotropic when heated but never a true liquid and it doesn't flow into cracks the same as paint. I have seen this problem with wire wheels where the spoke nipples fit into the rim.



Jan T
J Targosz

Very nice work! You obviously spent a lot of time getting the spacing and alignment correct, looks great. Also nice that someone is making a really good quality reproduction part. George
George Butz III

Great work Rod! What is the color and brand of paint you used. That is the color I want for my grill.
Rich
rich40701

Rich
I used Krylon Paint + Primer Gloss Khaki. A Rattle can From Lowes. Took two cans to complete. Dont put it on thick, but multipul thin coats for best results.

Rod.
Rod Jones

Thanks Rod
rich40701

All Done and back together ...
Worked out better than the previous grill and - No Rust..
Rod

Rod Jones

I had mine powder coated 8+ years ago. They still look like new. I hope your paint holds up as well. Regards, Tom
tm peterson

I bought a chromed grill from Moss years ago. I know not original but I like it. It has held up very nice. And if I remember correctly it was only $100. Not sure if they still offer it or not?

Rich King TD 8732

Nice one Rich.

When I fist put my Current TD together in 1972
I also installed the Chromed Rad. The Friend I bought the TD from thought it was a TDMk2 and had accumulated a lot of the correct parts, but as it did not have the second bump on the bonnet, that was obviously wrong. So in 1980 I put it all back to STD. Removing the 4 branch Extraction Exhaust, Arbath tail pipe, Twin 1 1/2 US's, TF Seats, TF Wiper system I had fitted and the second fuel pump. I did like the chrome rad slats but they had to go. A lot of the chrome hanging on the front also had to go as well. She went like the Dickins but I was wearing it out too fast. I guess I had out grown the "boy racer" stage... lol


Rod Jones

This thread was discussed between 06/05/2018 and 01/07/2018

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