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MG TD TF 1500 - a potpourri post, stoplight switch, straps, light
|I am listing several issues here. I hope this does not confuse things. |
Just yesterday I found my stop light switch was dead. It read 16 to 18 ohms at all times.
I immediately went to the archives, and found that the NAPA SL144 was, perhaps, a relacement. Reservations were that the roll over was poor causing the parts to seperate, and it was made in china.
Not wanting to wait for delivery, I ordered a NAPA up and installed it today.
It is NOT made in China. It is made in Mexico. (Frame #1, top left of the montage). It appears to have about the same amount of roll over as the original. The original in frame #2, top right, dates to at least 1966.
However once installed the design of the posts and screws proceed to sheer off the wire. I tried three times. I was going to tin the wires but I did not think it would help. I made up some wire "ends" using 1/16 steel wire and a pair of small crimp wire joiners.
On the leftmost bottom frame is my license plate lamp. Mine has always been painted. Even the inside was painted white to reflect the bulb lights. there is no evidence of it ever being chromed. All the ones I see are chrome. My TD dates fro January 1952. Is/was this factory? I see no evidence of it ever having been plated.
In the bottom right frame is the wire for the driving light. It is secured to the dumbbell with two push-on clips. (shop made) How does this wire find its way around or through the Splash Apron.
Finally on the far right vertical frame is a comparison of two wiring harness straps. The brass one in front is current Moss product. The one behind is off my original harness. That part of the harness that serves the rear lights. Its been straightened wire brushed and painted. They are quite different.
They have a single loop and are much wider,
I have used the current Moss ones on the front under the radiator. I intend to use the the originals on the rear.
Any comments about this?
|#2: Chrome, but nice paint job :-)|
#3: The big on in the back. Moss sells those now too but they are not 100% but 99%. You will need to paint them black though as they have some kind of greenish coating on them. The smaller two headed one is for the radiator capillary tube and the front left light harness at the bottom of the frame stiffener.
Check the nitty page for some details on both.
|Jim - You will be lucky if the new stop light switch lasts 6 months. The ones sold today are pure, unadulterated CRAP (with the exception of the SW 32 sold by Ron Francis Wiring http://www.ronfrancis.com/ which are quite expensive). I would suggest getting the switch from Ron Francis Wiring or make (or purchase) a Brake Light relay/arc suppression circuit and install with your new switch. You can find information on making or purchasing the circuit in the article, Brake Light Relay in the Other Tech Articles section of my Homepage at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ Cheers - Dave|
|I agree with Dave about the Ron Francis switch,,,, good stuff!!|
|Good day Mr. Benjamin, etal:|
Regarding the brake lamp switch: Intermotor at one time produced an unit, part # 61620, that basically is identical to the Lucas Mod. # HS 2 switch (Part # 31812, 34755 or 34765). The Intermotor item has the grub screw wire securing terminals, as per original equipment.
The Lucas number plate lamp Mod. # 467 was made in two distinct forms that I am familiar with:
1) Part # 53101, a single bulb assembly with a black painted lens cover Part # 572616. The most likely applications were lorries and other model cars from Morris motors. Although several other car firms did employed this lamp the lens covers were generally painted to match a body colour.
2) Part # 53093 or 53836, a dual bulb assembly having a chromium plated lens cover Part # 572603. This form seems to have been supplied for the more sportier models produced by other firms including that of M.G.
As for the driving lamp, which I take to mean a fog lamp, in the UK the lamp would have been fitted on the left (near) side bracket of the badge bar. In that case, the # 42 wire (red with yellow trace), of the RHD car loom may not reach the right (off) side badge bar bracket, the lamp location on a LHD car. However; if a loom designed for a LHD vehicle is employed tie-wraps (I believe zap strap is another name) will secure the wire along the steering rack housing.
As for your last query, photograph difficult to clearly see for me at least, I am not sure as to what you are referring to by "harness straps". The only straps I can think of may be the ground straps from the engine block, using a clutch cover (bell housing) bolt, to the frame on the left (near ) side, close to the forward four-way brake pipe piece.
Right then; Far being an M.G. Guru or even a gifted amateur I have now submitted my thoughts to weighed, considered be dealt with accordingly.
Cheers then, respectfully:
Jack Emdall, TD3191, Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada
|Thank You Jack,|
It is nice to know that some lamps were painted.
I do know that many things on my car were changed by PO(s).
The lamp is a dual bulb which the WSM says is an early version. It is quite possible that a chrome cover may have been original.
Bu harness straps I meant the metal strap that secures the wiring harness to the front and rear cross members.
Again thank you for your information.
|Intermotor is just one of a multitude of manufactures who put out identical brake light switches - all of them CRAP! The only switch that has a record of holding up like the original, red box Lucas switch is the one sold by Ron Francis Wiring and I have even seen two reports where those switches failed prematurely. It appears that the only way to make the modern day switches last is to add a relay to the circuit. Just so the T series owners don't feel picked on, the MGAs and MGBs are having the exact problem, including the mechanical switch that operated off the brake pedal on the later MGBs Cheers - Dave|
This thread was discussed between 02/10/2013 and 04/10/2013
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