MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Access to front wheel cylinders?

It is time for new front wheel cylinders.

The manual tells me first to remove the brake drums and hub assembly. The brake drum has been removed but now I'm knocked out - see picture.

The manual references a tool called hub extractor special part # 68822. This tool is not listed in section Q.

What kind of modern tool is useful as a substitute?

What kind of tool instead # 68895 can be used not to damage the oil seal when withdrawing the bearing?

Do you have pictures of the substitutes?


Edit:

upload picture in new comment
Bela

hope the picture comes up

Bela

That is the early two piece TD hub/drum. You have to remove the hub too. Remove the big nut, one side (I think???) the right is left hand thread. Then use either a generic claw puller, or the one with three legs with eyelets that you fasten on with the lug nuts. If the inner bearing stays on the stub axle (50-50), then you have to use one of the thin split puller adaptors to pull it off. Hope this makes sense. Don't have pictures handy, but Google "bolt on hub puller", lots of pictures. Also "split bearing puller" also images, lots of pictures of them. In our area, most auto parts stores will rent them for a few bucks. From the picture, I would suggest cleaning and re-packing the bearings and changing the hub seal. George
George Butz

Thanks George!

I guess thats the way. In D there is no known way to rent such tools. You can rent a place in the workshop. But the car is jailed in the garage.

So I don't need a slide hammer or an tool like #2 or #3 in my pictureboard and there is no danger damaging while using a generic claw puller alike tool #1.

If I'd seen right in the manual they sugeste to use a claw puller for withdrawing the bearing too. But it is mentioned that care must be taken not damage the oil seal.

The part list shows 52 and 52a (felt oil seal - not in the picture). What may be right for my TD?

The first washer behind the nut is without a seal. The manual remarks there is a felt washer too - what's that? In my case there is no such felt washer.

What kind of parts do I have to purchase particulary?







Bela

This worked on the rear hubs for my TF - might work for your hubs too...

If you don't have a puller to remove the hub then put on the wheel again but 'inside out' use a block of wood to protect the paint. With a mallet then tap the wheel rim evenly all round.

Pops off the hub - hopefully.

Like I said worked on my TF rear hubs - never tried it on your type.

Cheers

Dave
D Moore

I have the #3 type puller, not very expensive either. There was originally a thick felt washer/ seal under the curved washer, not sure if available or not any more. You can also change the outer bearing to a sealed one, see T-Talk for that info. George
George Butz

George is correct,(as usual),, as long as you are there, do the bearings and seals,,,
When you get to pulling the bearings, i used a combination of jaws from two pullers.. The jaws of the smaller puller were flat enough to get behind the bearing

Steve Wincze

George is correct,,, as long as you are there, do the bearings and seals,,,
When you get to pulling the bearings, i used a combination of jaws from two pullers.. The jaws of the smaller puller were flat enough to get behind the bearing

Steve Wincze

I have seen some of the early TD front hubs with a neck that are too short to accept the later grease caps.
Sandy
Sandy

Thanks a lot for all the usefull hints. At this point I'm a novice. That lets me look a little bit stupid - but I can stand it ;-).
Bela

Correction to my first post: the LEFT side has a left handed thread nut. George
George Butz

George wrote:

...... You can also change the outer bearing to a sealed one, see T-Talk for that info.


I couldn't find a link describing the substitute with sealed bearings. Unfortunately there is no search function within t-talk.
Bela

I'll hunt it up tomorrow. Bud
Bud Krueger

http://www.ttalk.info/WheelBrng.jpg The 304 is industry standard number, the S signifies sealed on one side, SS both. Original felt seal shown as well, which is pretty worthless. George
George Butz

Good job, George. You beat me to it. Now to figure out where/who it came from.
Okay, I will hunt up a new search engine. The free ones swamp you with ads. Gotta' get started on that decent index. Bud
Bud Krueger

With help of your hints the hub and the brake cylinders are off. I'm very thankful.

George wrote:

..... If the inner bearing stays on the stub axle (50-50), then you have to use one of the thin split puller adaptors to pull it off....

Is it a must?


Is it right to clean the bearings with petroleum?

Bela

Bela - the seal sits behind the bearing, so if the bearing stays on the sub axle you cannot reassemble in the hub. The bearing must come off.

The entire unit is replaced as one - the drum with bearings installed, and the installed seal.

The un-sealed bearing can be cleaned with any solvent, just don't let the bearing spin if you dry it off with compressed air. Pack it well with grease before installation!

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

Hi Bud,It is in the Picture This section, my original post. George
George Butz

In Europe the bearing would be 6304s and the seal C449 (72mm x 54mm x 8mm) outer bearing 6306s. Make sure the open ends of the bearings face each other for grease to reach inside,
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

I did find it, George. Trying to find a decent search engine at a reasonable price is very frustrating. When I was using FreeFind my computer became swamped with ads. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks to Ray - I guess with these numbers it will work.
Bela

Two additional questions for reassembling I'm glad if should be answered.

The pre owner told me first to tighten the nut and then to loosen the nut in a manner, which allows the retainer to be a little bit free.

Is that right?

Is the washer(crossed in red) part of the early TD too?



Bela

If it has the original ball bearings- NO!! If changed to tapered, yes. The washer must be there. I don't have a torque figure handy, but it must be very snug. If the cotter pin hole won't line up, you should file the face of the nut on a flat surface to reduce, etc. George
George Butz

Thanks again George!

Please give me another word for "snug" because I'm not a native speaker - google translater throws "closely" and "comfortable".
Bela

Tapered wheel bearings must have preload applied to them which is obtained by adjustment of the axle spindle nut. The trick is to fit your complete wheel during this process, nip the axle nut up to a point where the wheel is difficult to rotate by hand ensuring the bearings are fully seated. Then back of the axle nut by one flat, this should result in the wheel being capable of rotation without any play in the bearings.

My trailer and vehicle bearings are always adjusted in this manner, never had a problem obtaining a reliable outcome.
G Evans

Hi G Evans - thanks

your answer shows me that I've forgotten to tell which kind of bearings I'm speaking of. I don't have tapered bearings.

So what please is a synonym for "snug" in this case?

Is it moderate with little pressure or is it very tight? A hint to an approximate torque will be helpful.




Bela

G/day Bela

Here is a reference that provides a torque value:

http://www.mg-tabc.org/library/torque.htm


A very wide range of values from 40 to 70 foot pounds. These values are probably indicative of the ability to install the locking split pin.

Graeme
G Evans

Very good Graeme! Thanks are going to Down Under.
Bela

Bela,

To answer your snug question, it is moderate with little pressure.

Jim
James Neel

Thank you Jim for the clarification.



Bela

Here I am again.

Same job on the other side makes problems.

Both bearings are worn. The outer bearing stucks in the axle. I'd tried to press it out from the inner side - no success.

What is the best way to pull it off?

Additional Question:

What is the total thickness of new brakeshoes or new brake pads?
Bela

Hi Bela,
Do you mean the bearing stays on the axle when you remove the hub?.
If so then destroy the seal behind it and use tool #1
to remove bearing. You will have to use a new seal any way.
New brake material is 20mm thick.
If your shoes are riveted and the rivets are not worn then you can re-use them.
If they are bonded (glued) then I think you should renew at 10mm.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Ray, are you sure about that measurement?? I would guess 5mm when new?? Bela, I had same question as Ray. Is it what he asked, or is the outer bearing stuck in the hub/drum? The inner bearing is next to the backing plate/chassis and the outer next to the hubcap. George
George Butz

Hello Ray,

the outer bearing stays in the hub. Today I've decided to let it repair by a workshop with proper equipment. I don't want to destroy anything. The mechanic will also make sure, that the inner bearing will not roll in the hub.

Are you sure that 20mm (0,79") is right? The brake pad has actually 5 mm. There is only 1 mm to some of the rivets. That rivets have been done by the pre owner. If I give 4 ticks to the adjusters the brake pads will stop. Therefore I guess 20 mm will be too much.

What will be the estimated mileage for 1 mm?

Bela

Sorry,Sorry,Sorry,
I picked up an Imperial Vernier and without my glasses saw 0.2" as 20 mm. I work metric all the time and should know shoes could not be 20mm!!!!!!.
The bearing should come out easily, just move the spacer over and you should see 2 cut out sections. Use a hammer and a drift (punch) to remove the bearing. Any piece of metal bar long enough will do.
With the low distance covered by our cars you will have 2/3 years at least with your brakes.
I have 20,000 miles on my present shoes and they are not down to the rivets yet. I think our brakes last longer because of defensive driving, an accident in our cars is not going to be good for us.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee raybar2(at) tiscalidotcodotuk

Safety fast - I've ordered new brakeshoes and then will hope I should forget the front breaks for a while.

Bela

I would second the 20.000+more miles with normal driving. That's probably 10+ years for most of these cars.
And this is for front brakes. Rear ones will last forever.
As a benchmark: The rear drum brakes on my Suzuki have 150000km and 25 years on them. I check them every 2 years and they are still well above minimum.

Rgds Mike
Mike Fritsch

As Ray mentioned the new bonded shoes have pads with 5mm/0,2".
Bela

This thread was discussed between 02/02/2016 and 09/03/2016

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.