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MG TD TF 1500 - Air Filter Wrench-Volks

A while back we were talking about removing and installing the Volks air cleaner on a TF. I mentioned I made a special wrench to get to the forward back bolt, a PITA as we all know. As I wouldn't modify a Whitworth wrench, I took a cheap 13 mm wrench, opened the jaws up to fit the bolt, thinned the jaws down and shortened it. It works! Still not easy, but I don't have to disturb the side panel or touch it when removing the front air cleaner. I never try to take the face off while on the car to replace the element. Someone wanted a picture of the wrench, here it is, not fancy, but it works. The looped string I put on after dropping it 20 times which I put my hand through and don't have to craw under the car to retrieve it. PJ


Paul161

Thanks, Paul. I think one of those, plus an offset ratcheting screwdriver, might just be the tip for removing and replacing those hateful things.
Jack Long

I will give it a try next time I need to remove the air filter. I am adept at removing the two bolts keeping the side panel in position but I will give the 'Paul Technique' a try

I always turn the (front) carb float bowl as far away from the exhaust manifold as the filter back plate will allow to reduce radiant heat transfer to the float bowl and mitigate the potential to vapor lock. (See image) I will see if I can still get to the back bolt with the float bowl at my normal setting. I don't want to loosen the float bowl to throttle body bolt to move the bowl as doing this often leads to a leak and a need for a new set of gaskets.

I did notice on a recent photo on the BBS that one owner had left his front float bowl close to the exhaust manifold

1955 TF 1500 9194


I Massey

Yup, my float bowls are out away from the exhaust manifold also and the little wrench does help. Only problem I still have is, I can't figure out how to make my fingers smaller. Grin. PJ
Paul161

For the above members who have been moving the float bowl away from the exhaust manifold, you will be affecting the fuel level in the bowl. The bowl attachment should be at 90 degrees to the carb body. Because the carb is a semi downdraft, this keeps the sides of the float bowl in a vertical position and allows the float to move without binding on the sides of the bowl. A heat shield is a better solution to heat transfer to the carb.

George
George Raham

George - Interesting post, I will test if the float bowl stayed in the vertical plane tomorrow and report the findings, too late this evening. The TF did not have a factory fitted heat shield to protect against heat radiation and only has a 1/4" carbon spacer to reduce direct heat conduction into the throttle body. My aim is to keep my TF as close to original as practical. The slight difference between average UK temperatures and Florida summer temperatures makes that an interesting challenge

1955 mgtf 1500 9194
I Massey

My bowls are moved out and the car has never ran better. Newly rebuilt carbs and one of Barrys heat shields, I have no running issues whatsoever. PJ
Paul161

This thread was discussed between 18/04/2016 and 20/04/2016

MG TD TF 1500 index

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