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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Alloy Radiator for TF

Late last fall, my 65 year-old TF rad, sprung a small leak. It owes me nothing having never failed all these years with nary a bit of service. So I asked our local rad guy what it wold cost to re-core it, and add a boss for the temperature sensor which is presently in the header tank of my now-defective radiator - it controls the fan. He quoted me $475. He’s done a few T’s, so I know he’s competent.

Last year whilst in Kuala Lumpur, I visited a shop that fabricates T-Series alloy rads, and in fact, there were a couple sitting on the (dirt) floor, waiting to be picked up. They want (the equivalent of) $200. No packing, no wrapping no nuttin’. They don’t deliver or ship!!, But I thought the workmanship was superb. I do have someone in KL that will pick it up, but isn’t interested in packing/shipping it.

But I did find one made in (where else?) China. See;- https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-FOR-MG-TF-XPAG-1-3L-XPEG-1-5L-I4-1953-1955-70mm-silver/113830474129?fits=Model%3ATF%7CMake%3AMG&epid=1566152673&hash=item1a80d33191:g:dJUAAOSwWYxdOUhk. This outfit ‘Winner Racing’, makes a 2-core and a 3-core model for $284 and $334 respectively. I’m probably going to buy the 20-core jobbie, as I don’t see the need to handle any excessive heat. Anybody care to comment on this?

But it does beg 2 questions:-
a) Where’s the best place to put the sensor - top or bottom?
b) Does this mean I should be using Dextron-type anti-freeze?

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Had my 1500 rad upgraded by rennewing and with an increase in the number of cores by a local rad man for £170. But that's here in Cornwall UK
JK Mazgaj

I just ordered an aluminium radiator for my TR8 from a place in Georgia. It costs almost twice the ones shown on line that are made in China. The TR board reported that a good number of those purchased either leaked right out of the box or did so a short time later. The temp sensor for the fan is near the top but the tanks are on the sides and not top and bottom. I would think the top would be best as that is where the hot water is coming from the engine, but I would want it as low as possible on the tank so it isn't reading air temp when the radiator might be a little low on fluid.

I have seen cast aluminum parts used with iron blocks corrode pretty badly with the old green antifreeze and it seems almost every manufacture today has a special formula for their engines but most are all aluminum. My 2008 GMC truck has a cast iron block with aluminum heads so the pink stuff spec fluid for it might be a good choice.
L E D LaVerne

Many thanks LaVerne, for the advice. Will probably use an antifreeze recommended for an alloy engine.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

Gord,
If you go ahead with the Chinese rad keep us posted on how it works. My TF-1500 runs perpetually hot and I am thinking that an upgraded radiator is in my future.
Jack
Jack Long

Jack - T-type cars (including TFs) do not generically run hot - there must be a reason to be sussed out.

The first thing I do is check the angle of the radiator slats, and replace the thermostat. The second is to have the distributor re-done. More overheating is caused by a bad dizzie than anything to do with coolant. Then I carefully time the engine so it has 32 degrees total advance at 3,500 RPM.

If that does not help I have the water pump rebuilt with a 6-vane impeller, and have the radiator cleaned out. It simply amazes me how many radiators I see with chunks of rust blocking the flow at the tops of the tubes! If bad, I have it re-cored with 3 rows.

If none of this improves matters, I figure that rusty sludge in the engine is the last thing - when cleaning out blocks I have even found bits of support rod blocking circulation, left over from when the block was cast! This usually means removing the engine to extract all the core plugs, and running pressurized water through the engine until it runs clean. Replacing them with brass core plugs is a must!

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

After taking out the two(2) core plugs on the cast block gallery located
adjacent to the exhaust manifold, check that the small diameter holes across from the core plug opening and set in the block, are in fact clear.
They are often blocked and quite difficult to witness.

Tap lightly with a punch first in an attempt to locate the hole area. I have then used a 3/16"-1/4" diameter drill to carefully clear the holes. Probably a good idea to use a hand drill !

May assist in keeping engine temperature down when travelling at high speed.

Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"), TF9177("Athos").
Rob Grantham

Many years ago I had my original radiator chemically cleaned out to remove years of deposits. Made a big difference to the running temperature in the Aussie summers.
M Magilton

I guess I didn't make myself clear. I'm not having temperature problems.

The rad is old ... VERY OLD. Since I've owned the car from new, the rad has only been boiled out twice. Its not unusual for a rad to spring a leak, especially after 64 years. It owes me nothing.

The issue is whether I re-core the rad, which will be around $450 or try one of the new alloy jobbies, and I've elected to do the latter.

My only issue is to find a competent welder of aluminum, to let in a boss to accept the VW 80° fan temperature sensor/switch - pic of present installation - attched. Put this in when I drove to Gatlinburg where the air temperature was 40°. Its always worked well and I want to retain it.

JKM in Cornwall, UK:- Watch the forum. I'll post results.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.



Gord Clark

Gord,
That is an interesting find. He lists a TC radiator, but not a TD.... he he... might chew one off also... wish it came bare aluminum.

Blair
Blair Weiss

I need some help. My car is under cover in a cold garage, and I don't recall the details of my radiator, so I can't easily check

Could someone who has access to a TF rad, sitting on a bench, or a spare, please compare the original holes, with those shown on https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-MG-TF-T-type-TF-1500-midget-1-3-L-1-5L-1953-1955-54-Full-aluminum-radiator/254308315151?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225085%26meid%3D3e9ed4511411472facfb37847de93512%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D113714968378%26itm%3D254308315151%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

They look similar, but I would feel better with another opinion ... thanks.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gord Clark

I agree that the TF is not known to overheat normally. My TF has the Volvo B18 engine at about 110HP with the stock rad, and it never overheats even in traffic in the summer. The person who posted about overheating has a problem with his rad.
Rb Harding

This thread was discussed between 13/02/2020 and 24/03/2020

MG TD TF 1500 index

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