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MG TD TF 1500 - Attaching piping on TF
I'm wondering if there is a correct way to secure the piping on a TF where the radiator shell interfaces with the fenders. It's that short (almost vertical)section that's about a foot long or so. I did not install it back when I put the car together, (it needed a smaller size than the piping you generally use for the exterior piping), but now with leftover piping from the interior kit installation I have the correct size. Short of removing the fenders....is there an easier way to secure it other than jamming it in place and hoping it stays? Thanks! Jim |
Jim Rice |
Jim, I just finished mine and proabably like you I used the left over material from the dash piping to do the job. I looked at running the shell to radiator suround screws through the vinyl but in the end just wedged it in between the side panel and the shell for a friction fit. Not entirely happy about the finished product but it's gonna have to do for now. LaVerne |
LED DOWNEY |
Led: I'm of the same mindset....that seems like a half-a** way to do it. I wonder what they did at the factory??...ran the surround screws through the fabric?, did the crimp method by sandwiching the piping between the metal panels??,..something else? Another question.....my side panels do not lay flat against the radiator shell. They bow outward somewhat at the top and for about 4 inches downward. I believe the side panels are attached at fixed points at the bottom. Thus, any adjustments for fitment against the radiator(in or out) would be accomplished with the tierod connection at the top of the panels. However, it seems that the rubber lacing inter-twined through the shell is preventing the side panels from laying flush. Did you find that to be the case? I bought the replacement lacing from Moss and was wondering if the replacement lacing was thicker that the original. I suspect it might be since I discovered that the replacement door panels I ordered from Moss were thinner than the originals. At some point in time I'll remove the radiator to have the shell re-chromed and can address the lacing then, if in fact what I'm experiencing now is a lace thickness issue. Might it be something else? Cheers! Jim |
Jim Rice |
I still have the original piping on my late 1500 and the countersunk phillips screws do go through those two short lengths of piping, but can not be certain if this is original as the radiator has been out a couple of times. I also see a very, very slight curve inwards at the top of the side panes. (Panels are still in factory paint). Note, Jim is right, the vertical piping pieces are slightly smaller in diameter than the wing piping. Cheers, Matthew. |
Matthew Magilton |
Jim, I also have the Moss lacing. It's been hashed over many times as being to thick on this board. I really don't have any issues withe the side panel fit but it does cause the bonnet to not sit properly around the grille shell. Got my fuel delivery problems solved tonight and actually got to drive it for about 6 or 7 miles after a 3 year full rebuild and at least 26 years off the road. Still have to get the carpet in and the seats bolted down, front end aligned, and touch up the nicks and chips from reassembly. LaVerne |
LED DOWNEY |
Hey... congratulations...break open the (liquid of your choice)...!!!!! |
gordon lawson - TD 27667 |
Matthew, Are you sure that the piping you have is original because I think that originally there was no piping in that area, if you have a look at the factory photos there is no piping in the area except betwwen the guards & radiator. I put piping in when I restored my TF about 15 years ago and someone with a bit more knowledge on the subject might correct me but I seem to remember a thread on this subject about 8 years ago that concluded that it wasn't original. Wayne |
R.w. Styles |
Gday Wayne. Yes, the piping can be hard to see in many photos, but here are some references that should clarify things for you: "MG By McComb"(1978 Edn) P167 (Publicity shot) "The T Series MG's" By G.Robson 1980 P94 (Publicity shot) "Wheels" Magazine February 1954 P720 (Engine bay publicity shot) Hope this helps. Cheers, Matthew |
Matthew Magilton |
Hi, Correct-there was piping between the engine side panel and radiator albeit a smaller diameter when compared to the guard piping. Cheers Rob. |
Rob. Grantham |
Hi Wayne, As Matthew correctly points out there was piping between the side-engine panel and the radiator shell. These two piping pieces are also very clearly evident in the photograph (front-on with righthand bonnet-side up) in "The Autocar" October 16th, 1953 issue. Also in "Cars" November 1953 issue ..First Report on the New MG.. - there are two front-on factory photos showing the piping in place. Additionally, in "Road and Track", January 1954 issue, an article on the mgtf has a clear front-on photograph again showing the smaller diameter piping pieces. Cheers, Rob |
Rob Grantham |
My piping seems to have been made by taking a 1/8 inch diameter waxed fibre rope and folding a 2 1/2 inch wide length of vinyl fabric around it, matching the color and texture of the larger diameter piping. This gives about a i-inch "flange" to insert between the side panel and the radiator to hold it in place. (my side panels are flat, not bowed as some are) The ends are folded over to give a finished appearance. |
Don Harmer |
Thank you for all the replys and discussions. Now...one other question since I don't have any pictures for a guide. Where does the piping start and end? For now I cut two vertical pieces (8 inches or so)and wedged them into the open space between the top of the side panel to the point where the fender piping is. However, I plan to remove the radiator and have the shell re-chromed soon. At that time I'll want to replace/properly install the piping in that area and, as Matt indicated, use the countersunk surround screws to hold it in place. I ask this question since the fender piping and the radiator piping converge and I don't know if the radiator piping is cut and ends there where they meet, or if it should continue unbroken around the complete shell, or if you run both pipings side-by-side to the bottom of the radiator. The fender piping makes the sharp left and rignt turns to go between the fender and splashguard, but the radiator piping routing is unclear. Thanks! Jim |
Jim Rice |
Jim, I don't know what you mean by "the radiator piping", if you mean the stuff discussed above, it goes from the top of the side panel to the fender piping, about 5 inches only. |
Don Harmer |
Jim. The piping starts at the top of the panel and stops at the fender piping T junction. About 7" long on my car. Note, the ends are not simply cut. The cord is cut to correct length and the fabric is cut maybe an inch longer at both ends and tuck folded to protect the cord. Cheers,Matthew. |
Matthew Magilton |
This thread was discussed between 07/07/2006 and 11/07/2006
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