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MG TD TF 1500 - Best camshaft?
|Hello TF drivers,|
I'm normally reading the MGB board but I have some TF questions for a friend who isn't very good with computers.
My friend is rebuilding his TF engine. He is doing a pretty thorough rebuild and is wondering what the most suitable camshaft would be. The car will be used on normal roads and do the odd rally but nothing too wild like track days.... He would like to maximise mid-range torque. He is thinking of the Car Club fast road cam.
He is going to be balancing the engine very carefully and lighten and balance the piston rods. The combustion chamber volumes will be equalised and the head skimmed. Bronze guides will be fitted.
|If he has the money, I'd go for one of Len Fanellies roller cam set ups.|
|I have one of Len's roller came and I'm pretty happy with it.|
|Please see my supercharger system at mgtrepair.net. I also sell brass core plugs (highly recommended), and high-performance engine fasteners.|
|If I had the bucks and was doing it again. Lens Cam would be my choice. Matter of fact, I am saving my sheckles to do just that in the future.|
|Tom Maine (TD8105)|
|Gerry please E mail me. For specifications & prices.|
Many grinds to chose from.
My roller LIFTER camshaft kits are only about $ 300. more than a camshaft kit from Moss.
No ZDDP needed.
No cam / lifter wear.
A roller cam will allways out perform a flat lifter cam of the same duration!
PS thanks To the bbs members for your support!
With all the posts in the last few years about cam followers wearing badly and spalling, and cam lobes wearing out prematurely, it would seem good insurance to install the roller rocker package while the engine is out. I plan to. It also can provide the most performance without going hog wild with very high lift and stiffer springs.
I'm also very prejudiced in favor of superchargers. Nothing else pumps up the performance and WOW factor of an MG T car, like it You don't really BUY a blower, it is an investment that will hold or increase its value over the years.
Also, suggest he consider a forged or billet crank as good insurance, too.
And if he's not replacing his rods, check out having the stock ones shot peened (very inexpensive) to avoid throwing a rod.
|Jim you ment Roller LIFTER cam kit.|
|Len & Gerry,|
Sorry, my bad- did mean roller Lifter cam kit. I am ordering one!
If I didn't already have the Magnacharger, Marshall-Nordec, Shorrock and S.Co.T/Italmeccanica blower packages, I'd invest in one of your system.
|Jim - how interesting it would be to get all of them onto a dyno (one at a time), to see what HP they really do produce! I'd offer one of my blowers, as well.|
I've got a dyno, but what it all boils down to, for one given engine, is boost pressure (and to a small extent, the power to drive each). They'll probably all pump up about 6 psi and with a switch of the pulley, make more boost.
There is a whole lot to be said about your new Eaton blower, over my herd of superchargers, though, lubrication issues for one thing!!!
Our 1250 XPAG with the Magnacharger & unknown cam push the TD along fine with 3.92 MGB rear end, but there's not a lot of power to spare way down in the power curve. What horsepower the engine can produce at 5500rpm doesn't mean much when highway cruising is between 3000-4000revs.
The "Correct" XPAG engine for this chassis was already punched out to 1466cc. I'm scoring a Moldex billet crank next month for insurance. If the stock rods can stand up to the years of abuse we've subjected them too and survived, I'm convinced shot peening will guarantee good integrity, since we are talking about less than 100hp. Len has convinced me his blower-cam roller LIFTER package will afford great bottom end torque for effortless street driving, and the extra horsepower in our cruising range is all good!
This is not a paid advertisement for Tom Lange and Len Fanelli... just Jim getting long winded again!
|Speaking of cranks... Manely Ford sells billet cranks that have been re-engineered with larger counter ballance weights and beefier construction in general. If you're REALLY going to go for it (as I did), you can buy his crank that is set up with MGB spec rod journals for better bearing selection at better prices as well as more bearing surface. This of course also will require new rods and pistons. This is the route I took with Sanez rods with fully floating gudgeon pins and J+E forged pistons custom sized to the block. |
I just finished the final tweaks on the engine build (see my header thread) and it's a might-T-fine engine (1500 xpeg)!! I have the 4.3 in the rear and it still has some tasty get up and go. The header, roller cam, B+G spoke style lightened flywheel, et al really make for a quick spool up. WAY faster than any stock build. I also appreciate the insurance of no pinch bolt to deal with.
|Alex, I went with a billet crank and Crower Rods and Venolia pistons. glad to see someone else went the way I did just differnt companys.Both companies that either of us used are very good at what they do.|
|Tom Maine (TD8105)|
My TF was rebuilt in 2005 using the Crane 3/4 race cam. Performance is great, idle is a tad uneven, but I don't mind that. With a 4.3 rear end conversion, and pertronix ignition, it zipps along.
I suspect there is better out there. This is merely what I have, and you asked.
This thread was discussed between 14/06/2012 and 17/06/2012
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