MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Bleeding Brakes on a MGTD

Hello, i would like to know if anyone could assist me in bleeding the brake system (1953 MGTD). I have replaced the master cylinder, wheel cylinders & new brake shoes. While bleeding the brakes, i cant seem to get a stiff enough pedal. Firms up...but then goes to the floor...Bleeding brakes is a simple process, however with this project I cant seem to get the pedal to firm up...any help would be appreciated...
Thanks
Brian
Brian

Brian - If you look at where the bleaders are located in the system, you can answer your own question. They are situated to blead the lines only and the air in the wheel cylinders stays there. The easiest way that I have found to get the air out of the cylinders is to disconnect the lines from them and fill them with fluid, then reconnect the lines. If you have a syringe, you czn disconnect the lines and shoot fluid in the hole that the line connects to until it runs out (did I mention that this is a messy operation?). If you dont have a way to inject fluid through the hole, then you will have to pull the shoes, open the cylinders and pour some fluid in, reassemble and continue on. For the front wheels, this means removing the cylinder that points down in order to fill it with fluid. I had to do this on both our TD and the Magnette that we got later and in both cases, the brakes then operated properly. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Also make sure the shoes were adjusted (tightened) after pumping the pedal. When pressure is first applied, the shoes seat and square up in the drum, leading to a lot of slack. If using silicone fluid, I find it harder to get rid of all the air, and it bubbles when you pour more in. Make sure you move the pedal slowly up and down also, and of course keep the fluid at least half full. Lastly, could the new MC be defective?
George Butz

One thing comes to mind, be sure to release the brake adjuster fully to allow the brake piston to fully return into the brake cylinder before starting to bleed, therefore expelling all the fluid and air.
I have never used any of the one man devices, as there is no substitute for a heavy foot on the pedal followed by releasing and retightening the bleed screw when the pedal has been fully depressed (to the floor) and held after allowing time for the brake springs to return the brake piston fully into the cylinder.
Nick Miller

Brian
I used an Eezibleed to purge, refill and bleed the brakes on my TF when I serviced the brakes first time. I had to adapt a spare master cylinder filler cap to do the job as the parts in the kit are unsuitable. It worked like a dream and resulted in a very firm pedal without the need for any other actions.
John
John James

John,

Did the same as you but made the attachment myself from one of the valves in my scrap inner tubes. After pressurising the system with my foot pump and cracking each bleed nipple I've got a really nice firm pedal.


Cheers


Jan T
Jan Targosz

Have you had a chance to try bleeding you brakes yet, be sure to let know the outcome!

Nick
Nick Miller

I have just refurbished my TD with new rear cylinder rubbers and bled them the old fashioned way

Adjusters totally off
get the wife on the pedal (make sure she understands that this time you can give the orders)
Leave for one day and then re-bleed.

Clive
Clive Skelhorn

This thread was discussed between 28/02/2004 and 06/03/2004

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.