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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Block and head

I just acquired a 1949ish XPAG Y-type block and head. Banana hole head same as TC and early TD, block same as TC (two holes to mount oil filter bracket, ID tag hole on left bellhousing). Very rusty. No main caps. Any suggestions how to clean the rust away to better evaluate condition? Have machine shop hot-tank and boil? Any guesses how much these are worth? Pretty sure the head should clean up well, lots of metal between surface and plug threads. Am concerned about rust in the block lifter bores. Thanks, George
George Butz

George congrats on you new aquasicion. There was a thread on here a few days ago that had some talk about an electrolytic process to remove rust Why not think about that? Sounded simple enough that even I could do it.
Bob Jeffers

George, here is link to an electrolytic removal process. There are also some other rust removal methods on the site. I would get a large plastic container, like a trash can, and use this method.
I have used it with success, although it will take some light scrubbing and rinsing to remove a black residue. It is much less aggressive and dangerous than using acid.
I used concrete re-bar for electrodes, and a battery charger for power.
Dallas Congleton

Don't forget to remove the ID plate. The brass can be effected by a variety of cleaning processes. Critical if you are going to hot tank it.
Bruce Cunha


Block lifter bores should clean up easily with a brake hone. If not, and if you're planning on using the block a machine shop could overbore and sleeve them...but the brake hone should do the job...worked for me.
Gene Gillam

Electrolysis works very well on cast iron, and leaves it in a passivated state that stays clean for much longer than any other method of cleaning.

Lifter bores can be sleeved if necessary. Biggest problem is making main caps and line boring them. I will personally set up and supervise a special place in Hell for people who separate matched parts like main caps from their blocks!

FR Millmore

Thanks for the tips, I'll give them a try. FRM, slight chance the guy has the caps "in a bucket in the old shop". He is suppose to look in a few days. George
George Butz

I've looked for and through "that bucket" many times. All sorts of good stuff might turn up, so by all means volunteer to help!

One of my first paid jobs started with phone call: "can you assemble a TD engine for me?" "yes" "it's all apart but all there" "OK, bring it and I'll have a look."

I was out when the guy delivered it. They backed a pickup truck completely full of loose parts in, and shoveled it out in the driveway. There were three T series engines, no two pieces (including rod and main caps) together, plus unknown parts from many other cars, some British, some American, some "other".
Took a while, but a running TD engine left.

FR Millmore

I may have a supplier for steel billet main caps, & oversize lifters, if needed.
Abingdon Performance
Len Fanelli


If the PO does not find them, I have a set of crank mains from an early TD engine (4139-Nov 1950)

Drop me an email if interested.
Bruce Cunha

I have assembled a TD block with parts from 3 different engines. With regard to the 3 main bearing caps, you must be sure to have the assembly line bored. This is the most critical issue of all.

George Raham [TD4224]

The electolysis is amazing. The head cleaned up really well and can be restored (if passed crack testing). Appears to have never been shaved, main gasket surface great. There are a couple rough and pitted spots on the tappet and valve cover sealing areas. The valve cover unfortunately is missing some of the flange, and is also ventilated. Found some olive greenish paint under the red (the end that was not rusty), will take picture and post eventually. Thanks for the offers on the caps, I'll wait and see if the guy finds them. Anybody need a .012 valve clearance plate? George
George Butz

George, I could use that plate for 'the53'. The on it now is a .019. Swap? Bud
Bud Krueger

Hi Bud, believe it or not, someone else e mailed me right after I posted and beat you to it. Sorry about that. Will let you know if I find another one. George
George Butz

Just did a bit more research and learned that the engine in 'the53', #24091, should have a .019 plate. The change to .012 occurred at #24116. But, thanks for the offer. Bud
Bud Krueger

This thread was discussed between 27/05/2012 and 29/05/2012

MG TD TF 1500 index

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