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MG TD TF 1500 - body and paint

I started bringing the body parts from the shed into the garage to strip and make ready for paint. After staring at them and the tub I have come to the conclusion that so far I only 'thought' I had spent lots of mony. Anyone need a Kidney? Gently used with low milage:)

Rob
Rob Welborne

It helps to look at only one body part at a time. Trust me, this I know. Keep them in the shed. Bring only one in at a time or you will get depressed real quick! Strip it, then display it proudly (to make you feel better), then bring in the next one.
Just my 2c,
Ed
efh Haskell

efh
You're right on....You definitely don't want to look at all those parts in one pile.
That's just too daunting.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Yes as a matter of fact I could use a kidney. What are ya asking for it? You need a core?
LaVerne

Damnitall LaVern ...I just blew a Killians out my nose and all over my keyboard...a "core" ..that is funny!
I would echo the "not wanting them all in one palce" ...however I don't recomend storing doors in your buddys motorhome if it's for sale.
Yep ...after my "3 day paint touch up" (9 months after it started) my drivers door was in Kansas.
I was lucky he sent it back ..had been wondering "what" it went to and "when" we would figure out it was missing.
I owe some guy in Kansas a ride and a brew.
David Sheward

Rob -- Believe me, I know how you feel. I have almost all the wood for the frame (abington spares). I bought it all before I decided to just buy a new tub from England. Yes, after the restoration, "I could've had a Ferrari". If you are interested in any of the wood, I can can make you a GOOD price. I'm just outside of Austin.

Frank
FJ Bruns

Rob -- Believe me, I know how you feel. I have almost all the wood for the frame (abington spares). I bought it all before I decided to just buy a new tub from England. Yes, after the restoration, "I could've had a Ferrari". If you are interested in any of the wood, I can can make you a GOOD price. I'm just outside of Austin.

I also have the transmission, transmission "hump" and clutch (went with a Skyhook 5-speed) and professionally rebuilt carb set, never seen gas (went with 1 1/2 inch carbs after the engine rebuild and cam change.

Frank
FJ Bruns

Hey David, I started the joke, did you not even choke a little on your beer when you read my post or did you just save it all for the nose with Laverne? Frank, The wood in my Tub is in great shape. The car has never been out of the garage in over 35 years and was always garage kept when in service. In that respect I have been very lucky.
I do have a question on the front wings. On the underside of the wing and on the outboard side of the wing there is a strip of metal about 1/2 inch wide running about 2/3rds the length of the wing. Is this some attempt at a finished look for the wing edge of does it lend some type of support? Mine seems rather bent up on both wings. Also, should there be an indentation on top of the wing where the headlight bracket attaches or did I climb all over the car to much as a child? I found a hot rod shop that specializes in sheet metal and I would like to have all these issues corrected at one time. I am hoping they can bolt the wings to some type of jig to check their symmetry as well.

ROb
Rob Welborne

Rob, the 1/2 inch metal strip is stock and poorly tack welded at the factory. I have read somewhere that it is supposed to act as some sort of drip molding. I dont think it adds much, if any, strength.
I believe the top side of the wing should be of the same smooth contour as the rest of the fender. At least I hammered mine out and it has stayed that way for many years. Dont allow climbers on the fenders.
BTW, after you are finished stripping a hunk of the car, be prepared to clean it up and hit it with a coat of primer surfacer asap. It breaks up the monotony of stripping. Also, it looks better and prevents surface rust while you are busy with other parts.
Jim Merz

Frank, I would be interested in talking to you about the tub wood. Shoot me an e-mail. Thanks - Butch
Butch Jackson

Rob.
LMAO as I opened it ...took a drink by the time I got to the reply.
LaVerne,
Think you need to tell him if your still "old canister" type ..or have converted to "spin-off".
David Sheward

David, good question for Laverne:)

Jim, speaking of primer. I will have another person paint because this has been to much work for a novice like me to try and paint , but I am sure I can spray a clean primer. If I remember correctly I hear people say to use an epoxy primer,is that correct? Also, I will have a red car so do I just use a gray primer?

Thanks again everyone.

Rob
Rob Welborne

Epoxy primer is good and it really covers well. BTW, I found there were 22 sheet metal parts, in addition to the tub, that needed the finish paint on a TF. It takes awhile...
MW Davis

Rob, it depends on what "system" you are using re: the epoxy primer. Don't just do the primer without considering the whole shabang. Go to a reputable auto paint store and get the whole system from one place. I've only done it once, but I know that much,
Ed
efh Haskell

Rob, I would ask your painter if he prefers to do each piece individually or wait until the batch is ready. The longer it sits with bare metal exposed to the elements, the more surface rust you will acquire.
My experience with automotive paints is all will the various lacquers of the old days. Consistent with my old age so follow the advice of the younger guys. With a red car, they used a red primer so that chips in the finish paint didnt show up so much.
Jim Merz

The strip under the fenders is supposed to keep water spray from coming out and over the fender and getting your elbows wet when they overhang the door. I would also imagine they provide some small amount of flex support.

Regards,
Jim
James Neel 53TD 28423

One was apparently defective from the factory and the other was plugged up last June. It's working now at about 40% after changing the fluids to a lower viscosity, avoiding bad additives and mixing in a little snake oil.

Epoxy primer is the ticket for actually sealing the the sheet metal from the elements if the parts were going to be sitting around forever. However most are designed to be shot with paint in a small time window...like within 24 hrs. Which means that if you don't shoot paint quickly you will need to scuff it all again. Going to bare metal usually means you shoot it with a self etching primer and then cover that with some primer surfacer and then go to work with flat sanding. when you get it where you want it then shoot the epoxy and then the paint. Regular primers are porous and will allow the penetration of moisture. You can have the primers tinted to any color you want for an extra fee. The advantage to having it colored to match the paint is when you get a rock chip the underlying color helps hide the defect. The disadvantage to that is that it makes it very hard to see if you got good coverage with the top coat.

Talk to the guy who will be shooting the paint and ask him what he wants you to use. Bad idea to mix different brands of products.
LaVerne

I thought it was Body and Soul...
Raymond Wardenaer

This thread was discussed between 06/04/2012 and 07/04/2012

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