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MG TD TF 1500 - Brake bleeding/adjustment sequence

I'm getting ready to do the brake bleed and adjustments and have a question on sequence. I'm starting with a completely "dry" brake system. Fronts are brand new discs, all lines are clean and no fluid, the M/C and rear W/C's were refurbished by White Post and may have some slight residual DOT 5 in them. After bleeding, should I try for brake pressure and then do the adjustors, or do the adjustors first after bleeding and then try brake pressure? Since the calipers and W/C's don't have any fluid in them, those will fill under pressure, but I don't know if that makes a difference as far as adjusting the rear's. I'll make the hand brake adjustment as the last thing.

Thanks,

Jim
Jim Rice

I just did pretty much the same thing. I always adjust my brakes when I put in the new shoes. I put the shoes on with the adjusters all the way in so I am sure the drums fit over them. I then adjust to where the drum just touches and then back off one click.

Then I do the bleeding starting with the back right cylinder, then back left, then front right and finish with front left.

I also use DOT 5. Because of this, I typically will let the system set a week and the rebleed the system again to get rid of any air released by bubbles in the DOT 5.

I do it with a pump up vacuum system.
Bruce Cunha

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George Butz III

I have read, and subsequently tried bleeding with the adjusters set so the wheels are locked. That way the pedal is moving fluid only.

After adjusting I then adjusted the brakes before testing them.

Might be a case of personal preference of course.

To introduce fluid to an empty system I used a vacuum bleeder.

Now I have Declan’s remote reservoir.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Thanks for the various inputs. I guess it's a matter of personal preference as to sequence. My biggest concern is any leaks. While I'm fairly confident the rebuilt W/C's will be OK, I'm a bit leery about installing the drums/hubs without access to see if they may leak during the bleeding process and then when applying brake pressure.
Jim Rice

Sequence is not personal, it is farthest from MC first. so if your car is LHD, it would be RR, LR, RF, LF as somebody suggested.

People have secured the pistons with zip ties, I did not bother, whacked it all together, cranked the adjusters up, vacuumed all the WCs until I had fluid at all of them, topping up the MC often. Then bled using the age-old method, repeated a couple of times a few days later. Silicone fluid will contain bubbles hence the repeat bleeding.

When done, released the adjusters and correctly adjusted for a slight drag at each drum.

If you suspect that the wheel cylinders will leak, replace them, stopping is not optional.

Peter
P G Gilvarry

Poor choice of phraseology on my part. The bleeding sequence is as you and others have stated. What I meant was what steps work best. Bleed first, adjust later. Adjust first, then bleed. Bleed, pressurize, then adjust? My inclination is to bleed first, then pressurize some (checking the W/C's for any leaks at that point without the drums installed), then if all is good with the W/C's, install the drum and then set the adjustors.

Jim
Jim Rice

Update: I did the initial brake bleed. A few line leaks that were fixed by tightening the fittings. That said, I still have leaking around not one, but both rear connections at the adapter/banjo fittings to the W/C. I had cleaned-up both the adapters and banjos mating surfaces (wire wheel), and used new copper washers. The refurbished W/C's I installed as received from White Post. From what I can see, the leak is around the smaller copper washer that sits between the banjo and the W/C. I have one of the old washers I had removed and it's a bit thinner than the new one. I don't know if being thinner it was more pliable and thus sealed better, or if I may need to further smooth the W/C mating surface. A bit perplexed that the only leaks I have are in the same location on both W/C's. Has anyone run into this? Any suggestions on a fix?

Jim
Jim Rice

Peter. On the TD, the RR is always the farthest from the master cylinder. In the RHD TD, they use a line to go from the master over across the frame to where the Connector is on the left side. The same connector the LHD line from the MC goes to.
Bruce Cunha

Of course, you are correct.
P G Gilvarry

This thread was discussed between 22/05/2022 and 23/05/2022

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