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MG TD TF 1500 - Brake line flare nuts
Has anyone ever flared there own brake lines and if so, where did you get your flare nuts? I have all the tools and tubing needed even though I just purchased a new set of brake lines for my TD. When I take the old ones out wanted to use them as templates to build myself a new set for my other TD. I can reuse my flare nuts if they are good but then I thought about making up a few sets to keep on hand. So either send me your used nuts or help me locate a supplier for new nuts. Cheers, Vince |
Vincent Piņa |
See http://store.fedhillusa.com/about-us.aspx for, IMHO, the absolute best place to get components for our brake systems. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
I use the flaring tool from Eastwood. It's a little expensive, but those cheap ones are junk; I've never been able to do a good flare with them. On the other hand, I plumbed the whole car using the Eastwood tool and new fittings and tubing from Fedhill, and not a single leak. |
S Maas |
Is there a master list of the fittings sizes/types for to do one TD? Do you guys use steel or copper/nickel? |
Vincent Piņa |
NAPA has a double flare tool for about $25. Worked great once I got the hang of it. The copper-nickel line from FedHill is a dream to work with. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
I have a sykes pickavant 270 and an otc bubble flare tool. Just did the brakes on my truck with 3/16 steel with no issues. I have extra line which is why I wanted to make an extra set for the td. Just need a set of ends. |
Vincent Piņa |
You need a double flare tool. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
The Sykes does the double. |
Vincent Piņa |
You're set then, Vince. Reusing flare nuts isn't worth doing. How many do you need/ I may have some left over from the servo project. I'll check tomorrow. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Only reason I was reusing was because i was told they are not available. This site helps and once I put together a list, I'll order a new set of flares. |
Vincent Piņa |
Terminology question. The threaded thing that looks like a hollow bolt trapped onto the brake line by the double flare, is that actually called a flare nut? The Fedhill (Cunifer - Copper/Nickel/Ferrous) line looks great to work with but does anybody in Oz know if the NSW Motor Registry will accept it? A year or so ago I borrowed a flaring tool & replaced all my lines with copper but now have to ditch the copper & replace it, as she won't pass the rego inspection. The inspectors here seem to insist on steel bundy. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter, Copper is supposed to work harden and crack so that is why it is not approved. Tell them it is copper plated steel and you should get it through. The originals were copper so new ones will take a long time to fail. |
Max Irvine |
Just taken delivery of 25ft of 3/16" Cunifer brake line & 20 of 3/8" x 20BSF - 3/16" flare nuts (Tube Nut Male) from Brake Connect in the States. Only need 18 but ordered 2 extra. They were a bit cheaper than Fedhill. This stuff is accepted by the Roads & Maritime here in NSW as it complies with SAE J1027. Copper isn't approved in NSW. My question is does anybody know the total length of fixed line in a TD? I thought it was about 18ft. Can anybody confirm this? I need to take a foot or two for the double flaring demonstration to the T Type Tech Day on Sunday but don't want to leave myself short. I'd measure what's on the car but it's garaged some distance away. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter, Abingdon Spares list the lengths of the brake lines in their catalogue. Regards Rob. |
R Browne |
G'day Rob. Thanks mate. Seems the only two pieces not shown are the short lengths at each of the front wheels. If I allow about 14" for each I should be OK. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
A big percentage of all new cars have Copper/Nickel brake lines. Pretty sure Volvo uses it. Not to be confused with plain copper, it's a different animal! Much stronger and will take more vibration than steel and won't rust. PJ |
Paul S Jennings |
Add Porsche, Rollers, Bentley & Audi among others. Almost all top end vehicles use Cunifer, which gets its name from Cu (copper), Ni (nickel) & Fe (iron, from the Latin Ferrum). Almost as easy to flare as copper. Proponents state the reason it isn't used more extensively in the auto industry is because of its longevity. Not good for business. Bit like the light bulb that lasts forever. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Reactivated thread. Finally got around to fitting the Cunifer brake lines. Well I made a start anyway. The Chinese flare nuts from Brake Connect are shorter than the originals & so are pretty much useless. They also have a very different nut size which is considerably smaller than the original BSF. I'd live with that if they were otherwise usable. The Cunifer line is also unable to be bent around your finger without collapsing the wall (which you are supposed to be able to do according to the blurb) so I'm guessing the wall thickness is thinner than the Fedhill stuff. I'm going to try & reuse the original flare nuts but will pay close attention when bleeding the brakes to ensure there is no suggestion of any leaks. My strong recommendation therefore is to avoid the Brake Connect products. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter, I've used a complete SS kit from these guys for one of my trucks. The salt used on the roads around here just rots the originals out leading to some anxious moments. Anyway, they also sell components and even complete but very expensive kits for TDs. Perhaps they have the flare nuts you need in a better quality. I can attest the lines I've bought were of the highest quality. http://www.classictube.com/ |
JE Carroll |
I'll get in touch with them JE & see why I'm having problems with my Cunifer & flare nuts. Maybe your stainless lines & nuts are made in the USA. The big problem with returning stuff to the US is you get to pay the shipping 2 or even 3 times which is just adding more salt to the wound. Sounds like you have enough of that already! :-) Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Updated thread. I got my new Cunifer lines installed using my original flare nuts, bled, no leaks, so problem sorted. However a mate with a TF is having problems with a new flexible rear brake line as he seems to think there is a thread mismatch. Question he needs answered is what is the brake line (flare nuts, flexible lines etc) thread type on the TF? Is it BSF like on the TD or is it UNF? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
A few years back, I wasn't happy with the expensive and incorrect brake line kits on the market for my TC, so I made my own. I used Cunifer tubing, stainless steel coil, and had custom stainless steel nuts made by a local machinist for a whopping $2 each. The total spent on the kit was half what the usual suppliers charged, and at double the quality. Oh, and I used a Craftsman flaring kit I've had for several years. Works great. Note that I had the flats made taller. I know it isn't original, but if someone is going to call me on that then they obviously don't maintain their own car! The condition of the original nut flats make it obvious why I made them taller. |
Steve Simmons |
Top job Steve. Anybody have an answer to the TD/TF question? Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
Peter TF flare nuts definitely BSF.If your mate is using the old nuts tell him to check the cone end is not deformed. Ray TF2884 |
Ray Lee |
Thanks Ray. I'll let him know. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
I used the premade lines from the Moss kit. They fit perfect. All bends were done with a couple different tubing benders. I wish some of the other jobs were as easy as this was. PJ |
Paul161 |
Front, Wrong shock I know, but it has the proper ones on it now. I'd buy the Moss kit again if I were doing another one. PJ |
Paul161 |
Copper nickle brake line is available from several suppliers, under varioust names like NiCopp and Cunifer. You can get it on ebay for half the price Fedhill gets, and with free shipping, and can probably find it locally for not too much more. . Hard to say if Cunifer is any better than the rest, or just has better name recognition. Don't hear complaints about the other, and they are made to meet the same standards. Only complaint I hear about them is that they can be TOO easy to bend. Wish someone made some corrosion-proof nuts for them, hate to put plain ol'steel on lifetime lines. |
kylemorley |
Kyle the difference is the wall thickness. The stuff from Brake Connect was cheaper than Fedhill but couldn't be bent into as tight a radius without the wall collapsing. Steve's Simmons corrosion proof stainless flare nuts fit the bill. The flare nuts from Brake Connect are unusable. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
I see a Steve Simmons on this thread, who mentions having had some made up, but no mention in his post of having them for sale. So if you, Steve Simmon, should happen to read this, and have SS flare nuts for sale, please let me know. |
kylemorley |
Hi Kyle, I had some extra sets made up but they were for TC (larger thread) and they sold immediately. I could inquire about having more of them made in TD size if there was enough interest. Last time I believe I ordered 12 sets (one set does a whole car) and they were about $25 per set. Quite cheap considering they were made custom. |
Steve Simmons |
I would be very interested in a set or two, if you should have any interest in pursuing this. Anyone else? |
kylemorley |
Count me in. Dan |
Dan Nordstrom |
I seem to recall that there were 18 on the TD, but I'll count them again when I'm next at the car. Put me down for a set of 3/8" BSF. Cheers Peter TD 5801 |
P Hehir |
This thread was discussed between 21/07/2014 and 01/10/2015
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