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MG TD TF 1500 - Brake pipe conception to Master Cylinder
|I need some help please.|
I have finally installed all my brake parts but not yet filled the system with fluid.
I have noticed though that the brass pipe going into the master cylinder even when the connection is tight moves in and out by as much as a cm or 2.
My concern is that as soon as I fill the system the brake fluid will just pour out between the connector and the pipe.
Is this a valid concern and what is the solution. Any help very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance
|copper washer installed?|
|Not sure what you mean. There is no copper washer in the end of the master cylinder. Are you saying there should be. I bought new some time ago but don't remember any washer.|
|Apologies connection converted to conception by auto correct and I didn't spot it! Woops|
|Sorry. I was thinking the filler cap.|
If the pipe at the end moves, it will leak.
Where did you get the new pipes ( lines )?
Might have to check the flare on the end as to correct for the MC.
|You have omitted the extension that screws into the m/c outlet. Remove it from the old m/c and re-use.|
|Thanks Tom will check the old master cylinder in the morning.|
MGrogan pic shows the pipe kit I used
|From your picture it looks like the master cylinder adaptor, Moss part 180-710, and its accompanying washer may be missing. The red arrow in this picture shows the adaptor.|
|Thanks Joe I will have a search for it in the morning and let you know how I get on...but definately don't have that part connected to the master cylinder.|
Here's a photo from below.
I see you are fitting copper brake lines. I would have used kunifer.
|Congratulations for having the courage to check before you tried it! You're avoided joining us in the Sad and Sorry Brigade.|
|You have opened a can of worms there Declan! Almost everybody that I know over here uses Copper and have been doing so for years. Easy to install, doesn't corrode and does the job perfectly. If there is a disadvantage it is that its difficult to keep straight, but its the only one.|
|No worms Dave. Cunifer (it's spelt with a C here) is the state of the art in brake lines. All the prestige car manufacturers now use it. Comes from Cu, Ni & Fe, an alloy with the best properties of all three metals. Doesn't corrode, has an exceptional life, maintains it's rigidity, it's relatively easy to work & is able to be used here in NSW whereas copper isn't! It's been banned because it work hardens. I think it's only a matter of time before copper is not permitted in brake lines in the UK. Cheers|
Peter TD 5801
|So the mystery continues I dug out the old MS and the old pipe. No attachment on the MS or still attached to the pipe and I have no recollection of taking it off. Doesn't mean I didn't though as it was 20 years ago!|
Anyway the hole in the end of the MS is too big for the pipe. It just pushes in and pulls out. My new ones at least screw together....this leads me to believe that even if I found this extra piece it wouldn't fit the new MS.
Time to consult the Moss website I think.
Thanks for all the help an thanks DavePro for the words of encouragement. I keep telling myself there isn't a stupid question although I did think this was getting close :)
|You are missing #53, adaptor pn 180-710. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32824#top |
I agree with Peter- copper not the best for brake lines
|Just ordered the adaptor. Keeping the fingers crossed it fits.|
So can we agree that although copper is no longer the best it is good enough!
Ps I did the mod on the pedal shaft. As in drilled it through. 2 holes at each pedal location and tapped the end for a grease nipple. Couldn't get anyone local to do it so gave it a go on the lath in work. Worked well :)
|I wouldn't use it Darryl. The down side of copper is that it work hardens hence the ban here. Steel bundy is common but can corrode from the inside out, especially if cars are let stand for long periods. This is due to the hygroscopic nature of Dot 4 brake fluid, allowing water to be absorbed. Having had a bundy line blow out once at speed in the mountains I went with the very best available. Cunifer. That was a heart in the mouth experience I don't want to repeat! Cheers|
Peter TD 5801
|I did exactly the same thing when I replaced the master cylinder soon after I bought my TF. Couldn't figure out the leak until I looked at the old M/C and saw the adapter.|
|Great minds hey Lonnie.|
So what do people think of Dot5 over Dot4 to fill the system with.....
|The current Automec brake pipe set as sold by you-know-who at least is copper-nickel, not pure copper. It's been on my car for 2-1/2 years so far filled with silicone fluid and no problems.|
|I'm using Dot 5 mainly because it won't eat the paint. I had a little trouble with seeping at the wheel cylinder connections but finally got that sorted (tightening the bolts a little more every day). It worked great on my two 1/16 mile test drives. Hopefully someone who has actually driven their cars for a while with Dot 5 can give you a better answer. |
|I just rebuilt my brake system after 14 years of storage, only thing I kept was the pipes which I drew denatured alcohol through first.|
Filled the system with Dot5, no issues, but able to get a better pedal when bleeding for second and third time. I have the requisite 5/8" or whatever it is of free play then I get good resistance withing the first 1 inch.
On test drives car stops nicely for 50s drum brakes. Going to look at compensating for the drum machining with modified adjusters, or adding pennies during the winter.
I readjusted my brakes after a couple of test drives as the shoes bedded into the drums, just like we did 50 years ago.
I recommend Dot5.
|P G Gilvarry|
|Had dot 4 in my MG. Had a wheel cyl leak and took the paint off the wire wheel. Rebuilt the wheel and master cyls replaced brake hoses and lines and put in dot 5. That took care of the brakes however not the wire wheel. Took the wire wheel and sand blasted it to prime and re paint it and it looked good. But after a week the paint started to peal where the spoaks went into the nipples and where the spokes come out of the wire wheel center. After trying to sandblast and paint again with the same thing happening I gave up and replaced the wheel. Never did get that dot4 out of the nipples. That is why I like dot5. Forrest TDC/22679|
|Same as Joe Olson, I put copper-nickel lines on the car and put silicon fluid in the system. No problems whatsoever. Silicone takes a little longer to get all the air out, just work slow bleeding the system. I dispute the soft pedal theory using silicone, as my pedal is as hard as a rock! Everything on my car is new, maybe that helps. Patience is the virtue. PJ|
|Thanks guys for all the help the adaptor arrived yesterday and I installed it today. All fitted corectly. I wouldn't have sported this missing part without your help so thanks again.|
Just going around now and tightening each joint on the braking system of which there are loads! Any consequently lots of areas for potential leaks. I assume it's just good and tight without overdoing it...
Planning to use Dot5 so thanks for that advice.
Also planning to install Declan Burns resovoir which I think will be a great addition.
This thread was discussed between 16/11/2016 and 19/11/2016
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