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MG TD TF 1500 - Brake shoe disintegration
|Installed the rebuilt shocks (world wide, they are quite prompt and affordable) today. Easier than expected. While I was there I removed the brake drums to begin to work on my "soft pedal" issue that popped up last fall.|
The drivers side shoes were worn to 1/16" thk! Put these in 2 years ago. Right front were fine.
Left side had an awful lot of damp black powder every where. Brake fluid?
When I first got the car I found the drivers side shoes in pieces. Rotted away. So, adding 2 + 2 I figure this wheel cylinder leaks. So I ordered the repair kit (and new shoes) from Moss. Two things:
1) Is this a straight forward repair?
2) I'm lucky I have my own checking acct so my wife doesn't know how much I spend (and how often. The UPS guy likes cars so do be supportive he places the boxes behind the garage door.
a loyal owner
I had an issue AFTER rebuilding my brake system where I was still having issues with my pads fouling. What it ended up being was that the wheel bearing lip seal was shot and a bit of WAY old bearing grease would eventually "flip" out to the drum and get smeared on the shoe and reduce the brake performance. I've sinced repaired it and it's stayed dry inside since then.
I've been waiting for your shock rebuild (I think!!). Were you not the TF owner who had a bad, leaky left front shock and a slight drop in the level of the car on that side?? I have that same issue. Plan on shock refurbishment this spring.
I will be interested to know if your car levels out left to right with this shock rebuild.
The disproportionalely worn brake linings on the left suggest a frozen or sticking brake cylinder. Someone else will have to weigh in on the ease of cylinder rebuild. I bought new ones.
Let me know if the car levels out!!
P.S. Same deal with me and my wife!
|Peter.. Have you changed the flex brake hoses?|
They dissolve internally and slow down the return of fluid after braking. Change all three at the same time. It pays.
I am in the process of rebuilding my brake system, including the front cylinders. I too found a lot of black gunk, but on the right hand side, which was clearly affecting braking performance.
I have completely removed the cylinders from the backing plates (both right and left), which will make things a lot easier. The pistons were all showing signs of corrosion and I had to use air pressure to blow them out (after putting a cloth over the end to avoid losing the innards on the opposite side of the garage. I found that all the cylinders are the original Lockheed type and are suffering from light scoring, probably as a result of the rusty pistons. I am going to hone the inside of the cylinders (using a two arm hone) to remove the scoring, and have purchased new rubber seals. Generally, honing of aluminium cylinders is not recommended, but I have seen several reports on this site from people who have done this successfully. With any luck your cylinders will be in perfect condition and not require this additional work.
The springs and cups under the seal are in good condition and do not need replacing. The most dificult part of this exercise so far was removing the cylinders from the backing plate, as there is very little space around the nuts so that a normal ring or socket will not fit. Eventually I found a box spanner of the right size. I also removed the backing plates from the stub axle/king pin assembly, which made access easier. I am going to do the same to the rear cylinders, as these have also been leaking.
|Thank you Matt Sandy Tom Alex|
This thread was discussed between 29/01/2011 and 31/01/2011
MG TD TF 1500 index
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