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MG TD TF 1500 - Break Pedal Travel
|I suspect I already know the answer to this question, but since it involves rather a lot of work from the garage floor(!) and floor board removal, I am hoping you guys will point me in the direction of a rather easier solution.|
The brake pedal travel is around 75% of full travel on the first stroke, and considerablly less on a stroke immediately following. The feel is not spongy.
The master cylinder is filled correctly and the breather hole in the filler cap is clear.
The front brakes have both been replaced and the snail tightend correctly, the rear brakes have been checked and are almost new, again the snails tightened up to lock and backed off one notch. The handbrake is set to travel three notched before it catches.
The brakes work efficiently and pull evenly.
So, any ideas other than remove the master cylinder and set to with a repair kit?
|Sorry about the spelling; I know Brake!|
|Ian, the mounting of the wheel cylnders and their bleeders make it possible to bleed the system but not to have bled the cylinders. Some use a syringe to pre-fill the wheel cylinders prior to mounting.|
You could use clamps to clamp off the three flexible brake lines prior to pushing the brake pedal. If the pedal travels 75% and on subsequent applications travels less, then yes, you probably need to check the master cylinder. If it operates properly, you can unclamp one brake line at a time and see if the problem appears, and trouble shoot the wheel cylinders from there.
Hope this helps,
|Agree with Dave. If pedal gets better after first push, you probably still have air in the system. If it is the master cylinder. It is most likely a rubber part. Replacement kit is not expensive, and you can do this from under the car, although it is easier with jack stands and even easier with a pit or a lift.|
Unless you suspect you had water in your system, the bore of the cylinder probably is fine. One that is used regularly and does not sit for years, hardly ever have issues with the bore.
Geting to the brake master is not all that bad. As I remember, you dont have to remove the floor board (then, I have an early TD that does not have the foot well. May be more difficult in a later car.)
|bleeding the brakes made a huge difference; many thanks for suggesting it.|
|I think you need to take up some brake travel by setting your shoes closer to the drums. You are pushing the brakes out on the first press on the pedal stroke. You release the pedal the brake slowly releases and doesn't return all the way and you then hit it with the second stroke. The brake is now closer and doesn't need as much fuid to drive it back to the drums. If you had air it would make it spongy. |
This thread was discussed between 25/10/2008 and 26/10/2008
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