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MG TD TF 1500 - broke my windscreen glass!

Got zapped by a oncoming car rock on a drive yesterday. My windscreen glass needs replacing now.

Before I decide when to to it (now vs. winter) can the glass be replaced without removing the entire assembly from the body tub? Doing that requires removing the kick panels, etc., not fun!! Has anyone done it in place?

Also, is that glass usually available at local auto glass shops or does it have a curve to it or something bizzare?
Thanks,
Ed
efh Haskell

You can easily remove the Phillips screws on the sides to remove the W/S assembly. You wil have to feed the wiper wire out of the cowl before lifting the assembly off. A glass shop can cut a replacement using the existing one as a pattern. Not too expensive, or too hard. If you replace the screws, watch out for longer screws. If you do not pay attention, they will hit and break the new glass.
Have a helper, as it is almost impossable to do this job without hitting the paint and scratching the car if you go it alone.
Doug at FTFU has replacement glass witht the proper logo on them.
Be thankful the rock did not hit your grille or paint work.
Good luck!

-David
D. Sander

Ed,

The same thing happened to me years ago. I pulled into an auto glass shop for an estimate and they had the job done in about 45 minutes. The shop was only a few blocks from the MG dealer so maybe they had experience on their side. They only removed the top bar to change the glass.

Regards,

Jim H.

1953 TD
J. M. Haskins

Ed,

I just did mine. The glass has some curves along the top edge which are reliefs for the wiper assembly. Tint or no tint, that is the question; I think a tinted windshield is a nice look, but of course it's a matter of personal taste and project purity.

I think my glass was about $140, and the guy put it in the frame for free because he liked the project. He put a sealant around the frame, which is practical and has a nice look. One tip he gave for assembly was to put the "L's" together (one short, one long side), and then assemble them around the glass.

Jim
J Barry

JIM,
>>"The shop was only a few blocks from the MG dealer so maybe they had experience on their side. They only removed the top bar to change the glass."<<

How long ago did you find an MG dealer?????

SPW

STEVE WINCZE

Ed,

I finished my windscreen a few months ago. I found a local guy to cut the glass using my original glass as a template. (I still have the original glass if you need a template, I can make you one.) Cost was $100. There are some indentions on the top. I had to put the glass in the frame upside down, but it went in pretty smoothly (especially after the third time - I kept putting the wiper motor wire in incorrectly).

Shouldn't be a problem for you. Let me know if I can help with anything.

Patrick
Patrick Earles

Steve,

It was around 1959, Stateside Motors, Jamestown, NY. It was my first 1953 TD which was also my first car after graduating from motorcycles.

Regards,

Jim H.

J. M. Haskins

Looks like I'm back after having my my identity inaverdently hijacked.

I'd be interested in how you made out Ed. Providing all the factory screws are in place, I see no way to remove the glass without removing at least one stanchion. On the TD you may be able to get the one off the drivers side without removing the dash assembly and side panel. I've been needing to replace the glass on my TF for about 4 years because of a rock induced star in the upper corner of the glass. The TF is a major pain to remove. Have to drop the steering wheel column, remove the dash and side panels to get to the stanchion nuts.

I wished I would have set those up as captive nuts when I did the rebuild but I'm not sure how one would deal with the beveled spacer for the top screw on the cowl. I think an easier method would have been to leave out the screw that is hidden between the side support and the stanchion. If it's not in there you could just remove the rest of the side support screws and remove the frame without removing the stanchions. If I ever pull the frame out I believe thats how it will go back together.

As a side note...I paid $55.00 to have a local glass shop cut new glass for the TD a few years ago. Just need the old glass for a pattern.
L E D LaVerne

By popular request, here is the status. It's beautiful fall here and the aspens are turning so I haven't done anything yet! A bit of clear tape and I'm still driving for now. I hope Jim H. is right but I have my doubts. I put that glass in during the resto and I know how tight of a fit it was. I'll update this post when I get it done.
Thanks guys,
Ed
efh Haskell

Had a look at the TD Ed. I believe You can remove the stanchion on the drivers side and then remove the frame without removing the panel. I'd suggest that you put a box end wrench on the nut closest to the seat with a drop of crazy glue so you don't drop it behind the kick panel. Should break loose when you put it back together.
L E D LaVerne

Gents,

Subsequent to my first response I have been trying to remember more of what was done over 50 years ago. Frankly, all I remember is seeing one guy pull the damaged glass out of the frame and slide the new one in. They had the glass on hand probably as the result of being near the the local MG dealer. I remember being surprised that the glass came out so easily and wondered why it did not leak in the rain. At the time I was not nearly as interested as I would be today. The thing I really remember is that it was quick and I could afford to do it without having to save up for the expense. Pumping gas for $1,00 per hour plus commission means it was cheap. Certainly did not mean to mislead Ed regarding the job to be done.

Regards,

Jim Haskins
J. M. Haskins

YES, for the archives, it CAN be done without removing the stanchion on a TD. Now that it's snowing outside I did it. Just loosen everything up, fold the screen down, remove the screws & posts, disconnect wiper wire, pull the top and bottom of the frames off and slide the glass backwards. Mine had plenty of silicon in there and was only installed in past 2 years so it came right out in one piece. Whew! I thought this would be tough but it only took 30 minutes.
Ed
efh Haskell

Getting ready to take old glass to glass shop. I notice above by Jim:

"The glass has some curves along the top edge which are reliefs for the wiper assembly"

I don't notice these "curves" on my car. Did all TD's have this or did it depend on wiper motor position? My wiper motor is on right side of windscreen(LHD car).
efh Haskell

You should have a little "dip" in the top edge of the glass, to allow for the wiper-motor screws....If it's not there, then your old windshield may be a replacement that has been cut lower, along the whole length...(but I don't see how it would fit properly that way)...
Edward
E.B. Wesson

After giving more thought to your windshield....
You need two "dips" in the glass...One for the motor screws, and one on the "faux" side (where the motor would be , if it were RHD or LHD), as there are screws and spacers in that location.
Later TD's had the motor in the center, so the location of the motor , and screw/spacer locations can be critical.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

Humm...any chance anybody has a photo of the dip Ed mentions? A measurment of height at that point and maybe the ends of the glass would help me determine if mine has been cut lower the entire length.
Thanks one and all,
Ed
efh Haskell

Hi Ed, and Edward,
The TF doesn't have "dips" or "notches" for the wipers, as it's wipers come thru the scuttle. But, it does have notches in the corners to give some clearance for the angled mounting pcs for the frame. Se att. pic. The glass shop can easily make any notches, etc., as needed. IIRC, it cost me about $125 for a replacement glass here locally, 2 yrs ago.

A W Parker

Edward, alas I have a TD not a TF, which I neglected to mention. Thanks anyway!

Also, does anyone have a source for individual 2BA screws (#323-918 as a set). I used a new Moss set 2 years ago but somehow I bunged the tops up making them unusable to reinstall. The archives show a source in UK but they only have 2BA in Hex heads and these are countersunk heads. I tried some metrics at ACE but they just wobble around.
efh Haskell

Just found the 2BA's at British Fasterner's. Senior moment. 2BA is correct for these, eh?
efh Haskell

Ed,
A few months ago I replaced the wind shield on my '52 TD. I still have the original (that I believe is original) that I could make a template for you if you would like. Just let me know.
Patrick
patrick dot earles at comcast dot net
Patrick Earles

Patrick, thanks for the generous offer. What would be great is if you could just measure the hiegth at the center and one end of the glass. Then I could tell if mine is cut down or not and decide what to do from there. Post results here or email at efhask at roadrunner dot com.
Thanks!
Ed
efh Haskell

This brought to mind my conundrum from last evening. Whoever did the restoration on my TD back in the '70s put the wiper motor upside down (Lucas is right side up - it should be up side down). I was going to just unbold it and turn it over but noticed that then the wires wouldn't reach the terminals. ThenI noticed that the wires come up throuhg the inside of the passenger side windscreen frame and through a closed channel to just before the right wiper where they emerge and go the rest of the way esternally just held in place by clips. They won't move when I tug on them so I don't think I can just splice a new whire to the end and use the old wire to pull it through. I'm stumped. Do you have to take the frame apart to install new wire?

I want to replace the wires anyway because what's there is just white lamp cord that looks like $*&!.

Thanks.

Jud
J K Chapin

Jud, on my '50 TD, YES, you must take apart the frame to install all new wire. At least that's my experience. And it's not fun! It's really in there tight!!
I had new Moss wire and finally gave up trying to run it inside frame. It is just too thick, at least mine was. I finally ran it from tub up side of frame but not internally. Used superglue to keep it there. Nobody ever noticed it, but I'm not winning trophies.

Anybody have that size spec?

Ed
efh Haskell

Ed,
I have some free time tonight so I will try and get you measurements (and maybe a picture or two) tonight.
Patrick
Patrick Earles

I also noticed that the wire comes out of the wrong side of the motor, if you mount the motor as it is supposed to be...
I did not have a problem running a replacement Moss wire in the windshield, , but had to take it apart to do it....
I ended up splicing an extra length of wire on mine, as I did not give myself quite enough wire to attach to the "wrong" side of the motor..Just soldered, and used shrink tubing on the splices.
I've always thought that the motor was intended to mount the other way ("Lucas" up)...Or else, why does the wire exit on the wrong side, and why is the "Lucas" upside down? Some engineer goofed, IMHO.
Edward
E.B. Wesson

These motors were used on many different cars, and I Must have cost too much to make another cover with Lucas inverted. Wire- I have distant memory of this- not really sure- but perhaps the wire exits the same hole and runs across the frame to the motor on RHD cars, with a clip that goes in the middle of the frame to support the wire? If so, then the reason is so they only used one top WS frame for RHD and LHD cars. Not a goof, just cheap! George
George Butz

ED,
I measured the cutouts in the windscreen glass last night. Started by laying a tape measure straight across from one top corner to the other. The measured from where the cut-out started every inch to where the cut-out ended in the middle of the windscreen. Attached are some of the pictures to show the measurements.

I don't know if my windscreen is original but it was the template for a new windscreen. The new one worked out great and fit without any problems.

The next few posts will be a few pictures of the cut-out measurements. If you need more detail, I took one at every inch along the way. Just let me know how I can help.

Patrick

PS. I still think it would be easier to get a paper tempate of the entire thing.

Patrick Earles

Picture 3

Patrick Earles

Picture 4

Patrick Earles

picture 5

Patrick Earles

Picture 6

Patrick Earles

Picture 2 (I must have done something incorrectly at the start.) I hope these helped.

Patrick

Patrick Earles


picture #3 did not get into the system. It is just a blank screen.
Cheers,
Bob
Bob Jeffers

Patrick, wow! What a great response. Thanks very much! Would you know which picture shows the width of the entire piece of glass at it's center? That's the thing I want to check first to see if mine has been cut down or not.

Ed
PS: where'ld you get a tape measure with the fractions "1/8", "3/8", etc. so spelled out? I've got to get one!
efh Haskell

Ed,

I'm just now getting back to the forum. I will try and measure the total lengths of the windscreen tonight.

As for the tape measure, it is one of the "free" with coupon one from Harbor Freight. I have gotten a few "free" over the past month or two.

Patrick
Patrick Earles

This thread was discussed between 03/09/2012 and 19/11/2012

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