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MG TD TF 1500 - Can I mount my gas tank without the end caps?

I'm getting the end caps chromed (mistake!), anyway I need to move forward with my tub, and if I can mount the tank without the caps, and add them later, I can finish up some of the stuff that is just "hanging around"....
So the question...Can I go forward with the tank, and the tire carrier (etc), and put the caps on later?
Edward

E.B. Wesson

Made me look Edward. Mine will. Picture with panel off.
Mike

Mike TD/TA

Picture with panel on. I still need to paint the inside.
Mike

Mike TD/TA

In a word...... Yes.
C.R. Tyrell

I would suggest running a 1/4 BSF tap in the threaded inserts that are on the ends of the tank to clean the paint out of them - will make the bolts easier to get started. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Great advice from Dave...

The threaded inserts are almost impossible to clean out with a tap once the wings are on.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

When I restored our TD in the early 80s, I used some aircraft slushing compound to seal the tank. Fast forward to the mid 2000s, the reformulated fuel started dissolving the sealer, which glued the valve disks in the fuel pump closed and the same thing for the needle valves in the carbs. I had the tank dip stripped to get rid of the old sealer and then dipped in a zinc phosphate acid to rust proof the tank. Problem was that the tank was left in one or both baths too long and the brass fittings at the bottom and the threaded inserts on one end of the tank were pretty well eaten away. I was able to form a dam around what was left of the fittings at the bottom of the tank and pour some Devcon liquid steel around what was left and then install helicoils to restore them. The upper left insert on the tank was hanging on by a couple of threads and I was able to get the tank end in place, but the insert soon gave up the fight. I tried gluing a 'T' nut in its place using JB weld. When that gave up, I used a 3" long 1/4 X 1 aluminum bar, drilled and tapped for 1/4 BSF glued in place with JB weld, only to have that fail. I finally glued the bar in place using a LocTite panel adhesive used to glue body panels in place. I spent most of last summer fussing around trying to replace that insert - so it pays to make sure that the bolts will go in place easily. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Thanks, all for your input....
It's frustrating enough to move forward two steps, and backward one step....But, knowing that my parts are floating around some obscure chrome shop, doesn't make the job any easier...
I'm tired of moving the painted tank, carrier, and rear apron, for fear of ruining the paint.
I think I'll leave the tape on the tank edges, until I get the chrome back.
Regarding the threads, I carefully plugged the holes, before I painted the tank, and have re-checked the threads several times...
Not related, but my new floors are in, and I'm beginning to feel as if the car might eventually get back together.
Edward


E.B. Wesson

Ed,
your photo reminds me to ask a question I have asked before.
Does anybody know why export LH drive cars have a recess in the floor on the drivers side but not on home market RH drive cars.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

As the caps slip over the edge, it will thicken it a little where it touches. You may want to use as piece of cardboard or something to space it back a touch, or not fully tighten everything. Otherwise the end seam may be tight against the tub with no room for the caps. George

Ray- exhaust system clearance perhaps?
George Butz

George
I think your drop-floor theory is probably correct, as the metal would build heat, and probably melt the rubber insert, and fill plug.
Edward



E.B. Wesson

This thread was discussed on 30/04/2012

MG TD TF 1500 index

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