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MG TD TF 1500 - Carbs still leaking
|After month of illness during the winter I'd found energie to change the sealings with help of an experiencend guy (he is an automotive master). He did a good job with the Jaguar XK120 SU-H6 which belongs to my son in law. I purchased the TEFLON sealings from Thomas Bryant.|
I purchased a rebuildung kit too - see
and now some other sealings, washers and jet assemblies are new.
But the carbs are still leaking at the jet assembly and the the first shot brings a high idle (2000rpm). The guy says the throttle is without issues. We are helpless at this moment.
The guy suggests to take the sealings of the repair kit - but I know that so many owners are lucky with your solution.
Do you have further hints?
|Hi Mr. Mueller,|
Had similar trouble some weeks ago. I use the Teflon rings from Tom as well and they worked excellent over the years. This time the fwd carb starts leaking. I open the jet system and found some dirty mud. I do not know where it was coming from. The fuel filter inside the fuel pump was clean. Anyway, I use the cotton ear cleaner sticks to get all the mud out. Now it is dry again und ready for the summer.
|Hello Guenter and thank you|
I'm rather sure we took all mud off.
|Mine leaked horribly from the jet. The cork seals had failed. I purchased the "Super Dry" kit from Burlen SU in the UK and it has worked like a charm. This was recommended by folks on this list. It may be the same as you installed?|
|If you used the cork seals, they need to be soaked in light oil (like 3-in-1) oil for about 24 hours before installation. This softens them and creates a strong seal. On my 1950 TD, I found the cork seals to be more effective than o-rings. Not sure if it is age of carbs or particular product but our engines all seem to have different preferences. |
Make sure that the jet is centered properly and the needle moves freely.
Also, do not overtighten the lock nut...that will prevent proper operation of the choke.
I agree with your experience, the cork seals are working fine as long as you use your car regularly. In case of storing e.g. over wintertime you have to check the cork and may be softens again. If you fail in doing this maintenance, the jet will start to drip again.
As I said, the PTFE (Teflon) rings working fine and is still my choice.
I too have the O rings from Thomas and they work just fine (two years now)
Only thing I can think of is, make sure the jet holes are chamfered a little - possibly run a small fine round file across the hole to remove any sharp edges. You want the jets to slid up and down in the O rings and not damage the surface of the Teflon.
One other point is anneal the "copper" washers at the top and bottom of the jet bearings. If you got new ones make sure the correct washer is on top
Some newer copper washers being supplied, I have heard, are the wrong thickness?
Making your current ones soft again will help with create a seal.
Did you also get the big O ring for the Jet Screw at the bottom? I think it is also a better idea then the cork seal.
|Thank you all|
it seems to be dry at this moment. I guess the small white O-rings from Tom didn't match the diameter of the new jet assembly. They moved a little bit stiff. We took the oiled cork seals of the repair kit and after that it seems okay.
Idle is acceptable now. A screw of the coupling rode wasn't tight enough.
The super jet bearings seal kit will enter my to buy list.
the PTFE Rings need some time to expand. After a couple of days, they will slide smooth.
In addition I polish the jet and remove all sharp edges as recommended by Rod.
This thread was discussed on 22/04/2017
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