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MG TD TF 1500 - centering TF steering wheel
|Anyone got any good ideas about the easiest way to center the steering wheel with the spoke straight up and down?|
|How far are you off and are we talking about a stock type wheel?|
|Stock wheel, right hand drive, about 11 oclock from center.|
|If you remove the key at for the adapter from the wheel to the inner steering column, you can position the wheel where ever you want, but that is cheating. The proper way (if the rack and steering rods at either end are properly adjusted) is to remove the three lobed end from the column and reposition it to the proper place. the other possibility is to slide the pinion gear out far enough to clear the rack and move it one tooth, which is a more probable spot where thng got off to start with. Good luck - Dave|
|A final way to move the wheel the small angle you wish to adjust is to loosen the lock (jam) nuts at the tie rod ends and turn the tie rods (the rods which go into the rack seal rubber gaiters) the same number of turns each to center the steering wheel, while keeping the alignment the same. Or... if you discover your alignment is off, center the wheel by pushing the car a short distance on a level surface and then do an alignment, assuring that your steering wheel stays centered!|
|If the center spoke arangement is setting at about 11 o'clock instead of 6 o'clock, I think I'd remove the three rack shaft to steering column bolts as Dave has suggested and rotate the steering column counter clock wise one set of holes for starters. That should get the spokes closer to 6 o'clock and then you can fine tune from there with the tie rods or by removing the splined steering rack flange (which would be a pain with the rack installed in the car)and rotate the flange on the splined shaft to get the correct position. |
|David, Dave, LED, thank you for the tips, I will do the one that is the easiest for now and let you know the outcome. Now to tighten that center nut on the waterpump pulley.|
|Another thing I would check: With correct toe-in set, there should be approximately equal length threads showing on both sides of the tie rods. If markedly different, that needs to be fixed first. You could probably straighten the wheel with the tie rods, but one would be nearly unscrewed. Then do all the stuff above. Been there, not fun. George|
|The tierod fix will be the way to go. A round tuit for next week.|
|If you have small hose clamps on the ends of the rubber boots to hold the grease or oil in, you will have to loosen those as well so the tie rods can turn. Sorry I forgot to mention that.|
This thread was discussed between 22/04/2006 and 23/04/2006
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