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MG TD TF 1500 - Changing the rear axle, what else?

I've got a 4.3 axle coming from Dave Clark. As long as I'm under there, I might as well schedule a few other items for freshening up. I'll have the driveshaft at least dropped if not out. I thought it might be a good time to change the u-joints 'n stuff, kind of a no brainer.

Moss shows u-joints from GKN/Hardy Spicer on their site.... any good? Is there a better choice?

I'll be changing all of the rubber bits and pads, etc. of course. Can anyone think of a few more items that I SHOULD do while all of this is apart. The brakes have just been completely replaced, so that's off the list.

Spring shackles/bolts/suspension bushings?

......
MAndrus

MA
At a minimum check and replace as needed the U-BOLT (Moss #266-420) and BUFFER PLATE, U-bolt to housing (#267-560). Many threads in archive about these U-bolts being loose and wear attributed to them.
Randy
R Biallas

MAndrus,

Dave will send you, with the axel, 2 MGA axel covers for the U Bolts - Also an axel vent that fits on top.
I am pretty sure Dave includes new axel pad rubbers as well.

It might be a good idea to just fit new U Bolts as you are down there and undoing them anyway. Don't forget the double lock nuts on each end of the bolts.

The one thing I did that was not part of the new axel kit. Was fit new Back Plate/Bearing Cap bolts. Listed as N/A in the Moss catalog.
[Item 17 NA BOLT, housing]
The nylon nuts are available though.
[Item 18 311-240 $1.40 NUT, nyloc, bearing housing bolt]

I purchased new ones as mine were threaded all the way to the head of the bolt and not shouldered cap screws as fits the application of the bearing end cap. [and Per the illustration in the catalog] Yours may be correct.

I ordered better Grade 8 bolts and nyloc nuts from Nutsandbolts.com

[quote]
I just wanted to let you know the product you order, 8 pieces of 3/8-24 x 1 1/2 Grade 8 cap screws along with 8 pieces of 3/8-24 Grade 8 nylon lock nuts were in stock and will be shipping today United States Postal Service. The total for your order, including shipping is $11.92. If you have any questions or concerns please call us at 1-800-872-5557. [/quote]

If you have difficulty fitting the new end bearing caps to the axel [mine were very tight on the bearing - just could not get them on]
I pushed out the new oil seals carefully - Then heated the caps in the kitchen oven - 10 mins at 350f (her indoors was out shopping :) ) and they just about fell on.
Once they had cooled, lube the oil seal lip and split cone and just push the oil seal back into the cap {spring inwards] done. Temporally put some masking tape on the split cone to stop the sharp edges cutting the oil seal as it goes on. Dave does supply new cones BTW.

Rod

R. D. Jones

Mitchell; Polyurethane is your friend for bushing materials. Shackle ends are readily available. Mount pads at the U bolt mount points are not listed for our cars but you can fit the poly ones from the later midgets. Rebuilding the springs themselves isn't to tough - I have had good success with sandblasting and powdercoating. Pads between leaves are available. Shocks to Worldwide as required-let them do the link bushes if it has Girlings . Check the driveshaft spline fit while it is in hand. Have fun. Dan
D Craig

Careful with the pads between leaves. If they're too thick they shorten the distance between the eyes & can cause a lot of panel damage when they unexpectedly spring up! Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

MANDRUS,
It is suggested by all spring manufactures to always use new "U" Bolts,,
You will probably have to tighten them up a few times every 50 or so miles following the proper tightening of bolts with double nuts. Just to make sure they are tight.

Steve
Steve Wincze

This thread was discussed between 02/05/2015 and 04/05/2015

MG TD TF 1500 index

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