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MG TD TF 1500 - Chrome Plating Experiences

Anybody want to relate their experience with chrome platers. What should I look for? What should I be asking. Prices seem unreal and a time frame of at least 4 months Wow.

Thanks,

LaVerne
LaVerne

Not exactly what you are asking but I bought an outfit for $330 that will "do" all the brackets in my engine compartment (with the chemicals supplied). It also gold plates. I got it from the Gold Plating Specialist (24ktgoldplating.com). I am not contemplating bumpers or the like but we will see once I get some experience with it (one of my over riders needs some attention).

John
John Redman

I AM COMPLETING A TWO YEAR RESTORATION OF MY TD. I HAVE HAD GOOD LUCK WITH PLATING. THE GUY I DEALT WITH WAS UP FRONT AND TOLD ME WHEN I COULD BUY IT NEW CHEAPER THEN HAVE IT PLATED. I FOUND THAT IN MANY INSTANCES THAT WAS THE CASE. ALWAYS ASK QUESTIONS. IF IT MAKES THEM UPSET..........TOUGH. ONE LIL BIT OF INFO FOR YOU. SOMETIMES THE CHROME DOES NOT NEED REPLATING JUST "FLUFFED UP". I FOUND THAT SPRAYING SOME OF IT WITH OVEN OFF, LETTING IT SIT A BIT, THEN CLEANING WITH A FINE ABRASIVE PAD LIKE THOSE THE WIFE USES ON DISHES CAN WORK WONDERS. WEAR DISPOSABLE GLOVES.


J FLESHMAN

LaVerne,

I had a hard time finding a shop. I checked with local club members and got very few recommendations. I ended up finding a place in Cincinnati that makes huge chrome bumpers for large trucks. They had an assembly line setup for chrome plating these monsters. They also had a batch line where they did small orders for local repair shops.

I had my windshield parts (6 pieces), hand brake, radiator shroud, false nose, radiator cap, hood center, dip stick, dash center, horn button back plate, and ignition switch back plate plated. Turn around time was about 3 weeks. Cost was about $1000. The quality seems to be good.

As far as what to look for, I would want to see a few samples of their work. Look for actual customer pieces being completed. Basically, from what I saw. They strip the old pieces chemically and with abrasive to remove old chrome, nickel and rust. Then they plate the steel pieces in copper to fill any imperfections. The brass pieces don't get the copper. Next they polish the pieces to a mirror shine. If they do a bad job at this stage, then the finished job will show it. Then they plate with nickel and then with chrome.

You might want to check with local restoration shops and see who they use. with the cost involved, I would avoid plating any pot-metal or steel pieces.

Good luck,
Evan
Evan Ford - TD 27621

I would like to add, that if your chrome is a bit tarnished, even a bit pitted, it can be cleaned up remarkably well by rubbing it with a wad of dry aluminum foil,,, no chemicals or polishing compounds,,, just dry aluminum foil,,, this comes from an article that I remember from way back,(1950's),, in houshold "Tips From Helowise" (bad spelling)

SPW
Steve Wincze

Evan - I'm also looking for a Ohio shop. Care to mention who the Cincinatti shop is?
Stan Griffis

Thanks to everyone,

I'm sort of in your boat Evan, all windshield pieces, grille shell, plinth, false radiator cap, gas tank strap ends, 6 acorn nuts, dip stick, brake handle and button, inner and outer headlight rims and side curtain brackets. $ 1700.00 and about 4 months to get done. Its a local shop and the work I've seen looks good. I did a walk through of the shop with one of the owners abought the process. Have talked to the local rodders and some say good things and others say never again. The shell and the windshield frame need some resto work. As far as buying new, no go on the shell or the windshield frame. I was happy to find a shell that was useable after six months of looking. It looks like a crap shoot on other parts. I bought new bonnet latches and buttons just because of the chrome on the old ones. Very pricey but very nice. Bought new rear light plinths for the same reason. Not to pleased with the quality here. New luggage rack has a warning about the finish and I am afraid to even open the bumper kit I bought. The new running board chrome and the bonnet strips look very nice. I've heard horror stories abought lost pieces in shipping or dishonest plating houses. Just seems a little pricey to me and the time frame means no go till the end of the summer.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Over the last two years I have had every bit of the plating on my TD re-done by an outfit in Glasgow - OK a long way from the States but I think my experiences will be useful. There is no more valid expression than "the final finish is totally dependent on what's underneath". I felt really sorry for the plater - he showed me components, in for a supposedly concours finish that were battered, pitted and bent. Some people believe that plonking a load of rubbish into a chromic acid bath yields a pristine radiator surround. I took my parts down piecemeal and had the old plating stripped off. I was then able to straighten them, file out damage and polish them with fine emery cloth. In many cases I had to do repairs with solder. The plater then did the final polish with his mop before the usual copper / nickle / chrome plate. All the bright parts on my TD are now superb and the cost were very reasonable. A couple of other tips - if you buy repro parts get the plating stripped and start again with a tripple finish. Most are simply flashed with single chrome. A friend of mine stored his repro Triunph bumpers under his bed and took them out after six months only to find them red with rust. (There's a gift to the commedians amongst us!) Also only use silver solder to repair cracks and if you have to file down a silver solder "bead" be very, very careful with the pressure on the file. The heat used for silver soldering anneals the brass it's very easy to push the bead into the parent metal and end up with a crater. For any hollows that can't be tapped out you can use soft solder but you need to final polish the area around the repair before soldering and then carefully flatten / polish the solder by hand. If you you try to machine polish the solder you will either melt it preferentially polish it away and create ripples. The copper undercoat sticks well to the solder.


Jan T
Jan Targosz

I have found this as a pretty accurate "rule of thumb" for any chrome work.
Find a shop with a good reputation.
Get a satisfaction survey from former customers.
Get an estimate for cost and schedule and double it.

Dan H.
Dan Hanson

I highly recommend Pauls Chrome www.paulschrome.com
I had some work done and the quality was excellent.
John Shoemaker

Thanks again for all the tips. Jan as you discussued the process is not simple. The work you described is exactly what the plater went through talking about the repair work needed for the various pieces. I can do a lot of things but metal work isn't one of them. I'll be having the shop do this one. As for the price and time factor, they wanted to do an estimate, get 50% down with out a fixed price. I told them no way with out a fixed price which may explain the high cost but I can't see doing the work with out a firm end. I think thats what leads to a lot of disgruntled customers. You get a bid, they do the work and add up their labor and its more than they guessed so they up the final cost and the customer gets pissed cause he has to pay twice what he was told. The only thing I haven't pinned them down to is a final finish time. They are guessing 3 to 4 months. I know the work takes time but I don't want to be having this discussion on the BB this time next year. Seems to me like the plating on the brass replacement parts are pretty good. Plating on the steel and cast parts, crap. Thanks to all for the help. Off with the parts to the shop this AM.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Led,
I found that anything you can buy that is chromed is cheaper than having it plated. The problem is in the quality of the parts we have to buy. I bought new bumpers for my TF only to find that the profile was wrong and the curvature did not fit the rear splash apron so I returned them and had the origional bumpers straightened and replated. The cost was about 50% more for replating than new. They look much better! If you cannot buy a part then the path is clear. Make sure that the shop you choose copper plates first. Also for any nuts and washers that are chromed you can buy stainless steel and buff it so it looks as good as chrome, it's cheaper and will never rust. Have a good day!

John
John Progess

John, you are about as close geographicly as anyone on the BB to me (Grand Junction area). Where did you have your plating done?

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Led,
I had mine done at Ogden Chrome Plating located in Ogden. They did a great job. I didn't realize you lived in Grand Junction. We are looking at moving there in a couple of years. Are there any local British clubs in the area? Have a great day!

John
54 mgtf
60 MGA Coupe
62 MGA Roadster
John Progess

The fellow we use locally is a company called US Plating in Syracuse. He does the plating work for the Harrah collection in Reno and many, many cars over the US. Nice old guy with quality work. He can restore almost anything to better than new condition. He removed dents and triple chromed (show quality) FT65 lucas driving lights (2)for me for $250.00 total. I considered it very fair and it was of amazing quality.
Rob
Rob Silverman

John, no clubs that I know of locally. Several B's and midgets running around town. Have seen a couple of A's and just one TD that I know of. Nearest club that I know of is in Denver. They host a great ralley in Glenwood Springs 70 miles east of here every June. My brother lives in Woods Cross (moving now to Farmington) and I had him take my original shell to Ogden for them to take a look at it. It was pretty bad, told him $ 1200.00 and it wouldn't be perfect. Decided that I had better find another one to use. Go ahead and send your TF over here if your planning on moving here. I'll keep it in my shop for reference on while I'm doing the ground up on mine and I promise to keep the spark plugs warm for ya.

LaVerne
LaVerne

Paul's did my shell and false nose a couple years ago- I think it was around $800. The shell needed no repair, just rechroming. It has held up nicely.
George Butz

LaVerne,
Maybe when we move there in a couple of years we should find out if there is enough interest locally in starting a club. I am sure you will be finished with your TF by the time we get there. Where do you live in Grand Junction?

John
John Progess

I'm a native of Fruita, about 10 miles west of Grand Junction. It used to be farm country. Mostly grow houses now. I guess I could start my own club with my 69 B. I think that I suscribe to the Grocho philosophy. I wouldn't belong to any club that would have me as a member. I do know that there is a couple in Fruita with a nice 68 B. I saw it at the Glenwood show last year. Also a fellow with a 62 Sprite and a CB BGT

LaVerne
LaVerne

My 1932 MG J2 that I restored back in 1963/65 era is supposed to be in Colorado some where. Vin #J2698
If you ever run across it please let me know.
Greg & Grimm
Pics for viewing out at:
http://community.com/webshots/user/52mgtd
There are also some new side screen pics out there.
G.J. Cenzer

The link didn't work. I have seen a pre-war MG at the Glenwood ralley. Not sure what model it is but its very nice. Cream with burgandy wings. I have photos on the computer at home. Can send to you if you like.
If it was youre's I'm sure you can find out who it belongs to now by getting ahold of the Rocky Mtn. Sports Car Club in Denver.

LaVerne
LaVerne

Digital cameras are amazing. Blew up the engine photo of the car till I could read the build plate Greg and I'm afraid it was a TA. There was a fellow at the show with a 55 TF and he has several pre war MGs. Lives a long way from here. I believe it was Sedalia, CO. I think his name was Jack Kalher.

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

This thread was discussed between 30/03/2005 and 02/04/2005

MG TD TF 1500 index

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