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MG TD TF 1500 - Cleaning fuel tank?

I had my fuel tank leak repaired and the shop put water in the tank before they welded the holes. The water was drained and the tank painted with the rest of the car. I looked in the tank and it seams to have some rust from when the water was there. How do I clean the tank? I don't want to put fuel in until it is clean. Do I have to take the tank off the car to do any cleaning? Do the products that Moss sells work? Sorry for such a long question. Oh, by the way I did check the past threads for ideas. The one I liked best was take to a radiator shop. Hope they won't mess up the paint.
Louis
L.M. Levin

I took mine to a rad shop and they removed the cap and did the cleaning and 'sealing' and didn't do anything bad to the paint (it hadn't just been done however).
gblawson(gordon)

Louis--Have had some luck using a white vinegar solution if the rust scale is not too severe. Might try filling the tank with a 50-50 mix for 48 hours-occasionally shaking the car vigorously over your head for a few minutes-or not. Anyway, a little agitation helps free the scale. Rinse and repeat as needed. Of course,remove the fuel fittings and lines before filling w/vineger solution and install temporary plugs. Degree of success depends on amount of rust. Flush thoroughly w/ water,then a petroleum based solvent. Have had nice results on some tanks-not so good on others; but it is cheap and relativly easy - worth a try. Obviously not a sealing process-just for cleaning.
Dan Craig
D.R. Craig

"...occasionally shaking the car vigorously over your head for a few minutes-or not."

Now, I would like to see that!

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Dave & Dan: I had a couple of pro football players come by and they picked up the car and shook it for me. I am sorry I was unable to get a picture of that event.
Louis
L.M. Levin

Hi Louis, the best tank liner out there (in my opinion) is by Bill Hirsch. The stuff Moss sells is actually Hirsch with their own label on it. I have a complete kit here that I ended up not needing in case you want to go that route. I'll sell it at a discount. The kit includes degreaser, etch and liner.
Steve Simmons

Louis,

I just sent you e-mail with information about how I restored the fuel tank without damaging the exterior paint. This information can also be found in the archives if you search for "Gas tank sealing products".

Please let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

Larry
Larry Shoer

Thanks Larry I did get your email and I did see your proceedure at Britishcars.net. Is the product that Steve talked about any good? My tank is not in bad shape, I just think I should clean it bfore I refill it with petrol.
Louis

L.M. Levin

I can only comment about the path I followed in restoring a TD fuel tank that had not been restored previously, but had significant rust accumulation on the interior walls and had been patched at least once prior to 1980.

I used a two-part epoxy system from Caswell as one that I suspected would be the most inert when in constant contact with gasoline. It provided a thick, flexible, smooth, clear (uncolored) lining on the tank. I kept some of the excess material in a paper cup and it seems darn near indestructible.

I do not have experience with the Hirsch or Moss products, so would not want to comment on their durability.

In most instances, I believe a two-part epoxy system will more likely be inert than a system that is not two-part based. In any evnet, that was my thinking in selecting the Caswell system.

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm

Larry
Larry Shoer

Louis, I realize my post may appear as a sales pitch but I did not intend it that way. Hirsch products are considered the best by many in the classic car hobby. Most of the hot rodders, Model A / T collectors, etc, use his liner exclusively. Moss won't tell you that they relabel his products but I was told that they do by Mr. Hirsch himself. It was a very selfless thing for him to do because he knew that in order to save time on my project, I would cancel my order with him and buy it locally from Moss instead!

In reality, I would prefer to sell this stuff locally so I don't have to ship it. However if you decide you can use it I would be willing to send it. Or, visit the Hirsch web site and order directly from there. It's worth a look anyway because he has some really great products at reasonable prices.

http://www.hirschauto.com/

I have no experience with Caswell's liner but I would assume it's good based on their reputation. Eastwood also sells a liner that I've heard good reports about, but again no personal experience.
Steve Simmons

I just noticed a posting on the MGA board that suggests a failure of the POR15 fuel tank sealer with gasoline containing ethanol. Please note: I don't have any experience with this particular POR15 product and am only reporting an observation made by another person.

If you anticipate using a fuel tank sealer, please be sure to research the product thoroughly to avoid any problems, specifically with respect to its compatibility with ethanol. If you would like any help, please contact me directly via e-mail, as I have both recently sealed my fuel tank and am a chemist by training, so have some ability to sort out the technical jargon described with these products.

Larry
Larry Shoer

Larry:

Since you offered to answer I am asking

Back in early 1990's I cleaning my gas tank to a shinny internal brilliance, degreased and coated with the Hirsh product. Latex I believe.

The white latex kept its appearance and withstood aging till I mothballed the car in 2009 due to engine failure head gasket - piston rings etc.

Now I have rebuilt engine and checking out the fuel system found that the fuel filter and line was plugged with thick black gooo - terrible gummy stuff. Pulled it and internal inspection indicates liner is bubbled up and thick goo in bottom.

My question is how do I get the latex out - is there a latex solvent ? or is this all mechanical scraping? I have a good paint job on the outside

BBS indicates that the old liners sold by Moss and Hisch deteriorated and I suppose that is what happed here - but I want to dissolve it out and clean it all up - how?
Michael Balahutrak

A couple of years ago I had a local radiator company cut the back of my tank- they had to make quite a large opening due to the internal baffles, to ensure ALL rust and "gunk" was removed. They then welded back the part cut out, ground the weld down and pressure tested. When in situ you'd never know that the work had taken place. Now in the process of rebuilding a TC I will certaintly take that course again. HOWEVER what I'm now thinking I wonder if instead of the plate being welded back whether to could in some way be bolted back (obviously with a ethanol proof gasket) to allow periodically DIY cleaning out again. Obviously the integrity of the "gasket" may be a point of major concern but then due to the fact that ethanol attracts water which sinks to the bottom of the tank rust may become an ever more important concern. What thoughts have others.
JK Mazgaj

I highly recommend RedKote
W A Chasser

Well for what it's worth I slush coated my TD tank back in 1977 with whatever Moss sold at the time. Forty three years later, no leaks, no rust accumulation in the fuel pump filter or carb float bowls.
John Quilter (TD8986)

Well in the 12 years since I posted that, I have decided that I don't like liners at all. They seem to work great for a few years and then they come apart. I've had it happen on two cars using different sealing products and numerous friends have also. The mess they make when they fail is just not worth it. My original early MGB tank was a write-off. I'd rather just acid dip the tank, pressure test, and fill with fuel. A tiny bit of surface rust isn't going to hurt anything, especially if you put a filter in the line. Just my 2 cents USD.
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 28/07/2008 and 31/12/2020

MG TD TF 1500 index

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