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MG TD TF 1500 - clutch rod or cable - which is better?

While taking a short drive into DC this morning, my clutch rod broke in front of the National Air & Space Museum. The rod broke at a 25 year-old weld repair where the threaded portion joins the main rod (too cheap 25 years ago to buy a new rod, so repaired the original).

Fortunately I was traveling with three buddies in their T-series cars who provided a little comradarie and moral support. AAA showed up within 1 1/2 hours with a flatbed truck and brought me home just 6 miles away. The truck driver asked me to turn the key to release steering wheel so I could steer it onto the truck!

But now the question: replace with the rod or the cable assembly? (My car technically should have the cable but I'm not a stickler for some details.) I have heard that the cable ass'y works better (not sure why) and wanted to hear from you all before I place an order. The cable ass'y is also a lot more expensive than the rod.

I'll probably go with Abingdon Spares this time instead of my usual Moss, as I have been disappointed in some recent Moss parts (choke knob pulled off yesterday after one year of use, and even it was a replacement after the first one failed after three pulls).

Bryan
52 TD Mk II
B Sieling

Read the clutch section on the O'connor classics web site. Adjustment and wear cause it to hit and bind, breaking the end off. Not sure if that is where yours broke, but good info anyway. No way I would use a cable here in Florida with all of the sand.


http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_clutch.php
George Butz

I put in the Moss clutch rod over 7 years ago and no problems so far. My car originally had a cable but the rod works just fine.
Tom

Bryan,
It's nice that you had AAA, but 1 1/2 hours is a long time to wait to go just 6 miles... The car can be driven with a broken clutch linkage, but you must have the engine turned off at each stop, and then start the engine in first gear... then match the speed with the rpm's and GENTLY select second, then third etc.
As far as replacing the linkage, I would say go with the rod type...

SPW
Steve Wincze

Yeah, one of the fellows I was with said I could do that, but I was a little apprehesive not having done it before. I was also thinking about all the traffic and stop lights I would have to deal with getting out of the city. He demonstrated for me on his car when we got home and I realize after the fact I could have done it. Chalk it up to life experience.

I do have the O'Connor article and will make those mods when I put it back together.
B Sieling

Bryan

I have limited experience with the "T" type and my early TD has the cable. One of the things that was mentioned to me in passing was that the cable allowed the motor to rock a little without creating any binding or excess wear, whereas the solid rod was subject to binding and rapid wear of the ends.

Now this is all stuff that was passed along to me and I am unable to verify it but it would appear to make sense. Hopefully some of our VERY knowledgable posters will provide comment.

Brian
Brian Smith

The modifications mentioned above solves the wear problem, and the change in the 'hole' makes shifting a dream. I think there are enough joints in the assembly to take care of the 'rocking'! Anyway, mine is the rod system with the modifications and has been fine (2 years - and 20 some odd before that).
gblawson - TD#27667

For what it is worth, my '52 MKII has had both over the years. It has been a street car, a rat-raced beastie and a long-term VSCCA racer. I got tired of the drive home nursing a broken shaft and went to and remain with the cable. A fraction slower than the rod, but 20 years later, the same set-up still works fine.
Safety Fast
Paul
Paul

Brian, my clutch rod broke in exactly the same place. I have now incorporated the O'Connor fix and even added a clutch pedal stop per the factory when they changed from the cable to the rod. I also made sure the bracket on the oil sump moves an equal distance forward and backward from vertical as the clutch is engaged and released.
Jim Merz

Jim,
What is the clutch pedal stop you speak of?

While waiting for a new rod to arrive, I have made the O'Connor mods to the clutch lever (new hole 1/2" above old, and filed reliefs inside the yoke), but I was hoping to get by without lengthing the clutch link, as O'Connor also suggests. The reason being: when I do a test fit to see how the link lines up with the new hole in the lever (or the old hole for that matter), the lever must be pivoted so far forward that it touches the oil pick up casting on the side of the sump. Making the link longer would not be possible in my case, as there is no more room. Does this suggest a badly worn clutch or is this 'normal' and, after all is assembled and properly adjusted for 7/8" pedal movement, the lever will be pulled back a bit and clear the sump casting?

Bryan
B Sieling

Bryan, check http://www.ttalk.info/Tech/Clutch_stop.html to see one. It's a physical stop located in the pedal box to limit the clutch pedal movement.
Bud Krueger

Bryan, I would wait until the new rod arrives and all is assembled. You can probably see better what has to be done at that time. BTW, I have another stop you can have if you want to install one per Bud's photo.
Jim Merz

I would also check the replacement rod for strength. I hhad a Moss rod bend into a "u" after a few uses. It was about 6 years ago. I then ordered an Abingdon rod and weighed each. The Abingdon rod was much stringer and heavier. Mos may have since improved the cosmetic rod they used to supply.
J Delk

Also be warned that it's a different piece for right and left hand drive cars. They're mirror images, so just turning over doesn't help. I was able to fix my left-handed clutch rod to fit my RHD car with a little cutting and welding. I think Abingdon may have right handed clutch rods. Moss didn't the last time I checked.
Mark B.

Interesting... is the stop welded or bolted to the pedal box? Jim, I may take you up on your offer once all this is back together and I see how it works.

Regarding rod strength, I did order from Abingdon rather than my usual Moss. Abingdon is more $$ but I'm findiing also better quality. Case in point: Abingdon's rubber pads for under the windshield mounting brackets were nearly twice as thick as Moss's (my Moss pads split after a few weeks and didn't want to bother with free replacements that would likely split in another few weeks!).

Bryan
B Sieling

Geez... I didn't even think to ask if the rod was for right or left hand drive cars -- they didn't ask and I assumed for left hand because this is the good ole US of A
B Sieling

This thread was discussed between 27/08/2006 and 30/08/2006

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