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MG TD TF 1500 - Clutch & brake pedel rod.

The adventure continues.....OK, I started out to just replace the upolstery and now I have taken out the floorboards to paint the chasis rails. At any rate, I have an awful lot of play where the brake and clutch pedel are attached to the shaft. I surmise that the bushings are shot. I am looking for advice on the shaft removal. Horst's book says do it before the the body and fenders are bolted on but mine are attached. I am loath to remove them as I want to make the next GOF in Redding, Pa. Can I leave the master cylinder in place too? As ever, THANKS. Tom
Thomas McNamara

You can remove the shaft with the body in place, it's just more awkward. Disconnect the actuator rods from the pedals and remove them, you can leave the master cylinder in place. If you have a lot of play it probably means a new shaft as well as bushings in the pedals and spacer shims.
Phil Stafford

I just installed my engine and transmission Saturday. The clutch linkage is real loose now, wasn't before and the clutch won't disengage. The cable was replaced with a rod by the PO. Today I am going to adjust the linkage hoping that will cure the problem.

Don
Don

Hey Don, I think the clutch was always a rod, not a cable. Tom
Thomas McNamara

Early cars had a cable operated clutch rather than the later rod assembly. Both mechanisms are available from Moss and are shown in the Moss catalog.

Phil
Phil Stafford

Tom

Beware! When you replace the clutch rod the Moss part is too short by about half an inch. The upshot is that there is limited adjustment available and the rod can bend in the U bearing.

There is a mod (in the archive I think here) which cuts the U joint rather deeper with a file or grinder and inserts a screw adjuster. I had my local mg specialist do mine last year and everything is fine. Before the mod the clutch was very clunky.

All the best!

1954 TF
Paul Joachim

The first time I restored a '54 TF the clutch was not centered properly, resulting in very difficult clutch opereation and a smashed pilot bearing. Check to see that the clutch was centered correctly.
John Clinton

Pedal shaft and bushing replacement is undoubtedly the worse job I have every tried to do on the TD without the body renmoved. Takes at least 4 hands, Maybe 5.
however it was pretty much a sench with the tub off. The bushings have to be driven in with a drift the propersize or it doesn't work. The pedal shaft of course is the worse place for protection from foreign matter. The grease plug also is important since it is the secret to proper maintance for the shaft. Its hard to reach and out of place most of the time. Fter the is corrected, the clutch rod has to be proper length. Found that out the hard way and cut mine and welded in about one inch of length. All works well now
Ellis Carlton

This thread was discussed between 21/01/2001 and 15/02/2001

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.