MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Dash Board and Glove box trim.


The chrome dash trim for my car was incomplete. It always was.
I only have part of the outer underside. I do not have the glove box door trim. After searching on eBay for some time for bits and pieces I ordered a kit from a UK vendor mentioned on this site.

I decided to put the outer glove box trim on first so I wont bang up the outside trim doing it. It appears that I can drill and counter sink the screw holes before forming the trim
I intend to cut the trim a bit oversize, layout the holes, drill them, CS them and then form the trim. I have made a forming template out of a piece of hardwood.
I will then fit the trim to the hole screw it, mark the correct length and trim it to size.
It appears that I could pick up the old holes but I am not sure this is a good idea.

Should I try or would it be better to plug the old holes with dowels and use new ones?

FWIW I have found a source of FH #2 x 1/2 screws. They are, however Phillips heads and they are actually sheet metal screws, threaded the full length. I hink they will hold better than the wood screws.

For the outer trim I plan on using #15 by 1/2 SS brads.
(I will actually cut 1" brads to 1/2" A cut nail splinters less than a pointed one)

I purchased a special "Brad Pliers"
http://woodworker.com/framers-brad-pliers-mssu-101-238.asp?search=101238&searchmode=2

To set these so I don't strain the Plywood.
The holes in the old trim seem to fit #17 brads but I don't find these in SS. If I pre-drill I don't think #15 will strain things.

I would appreciate any and all insights the group may have.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

one thing you have to do is to cut v's in the trim to make it fit. it will not fit unless you do this as the curves make it impossible to fit in as supplied.
Tom Maine (TD8105)

This is the chrome trim around the edge. Do you mean the cloth cover, the cloth beading?

The only vee's on the old trim I see are bevels at the edges where the outer-upper chrome meets the lower chrome.

I would also love a source for a small amount of the cloth beading that goes between the dash and the scuttle. I am not ready to spring for an interior yet.

Thinks

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

I was thinking of the chrome around the dash itself. Senior moment.
Tom Maine (TD8105)

Now I am the one who is confused.

See attached.
Trim inside the opening.

Thanks

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

Jim,
Your dash finish looks great. Can't wait to see it when you are finished.

I would like to submit my entry for the worst glove box installation. Yes those are staples! If I win the contest I will dedicate the prize to the DPO.

It's on my (long) list of things to re-do.

Mort



Mort 1950 TD Möbius

Mort, do you have a lock for the glove box with all the important switches + garage remote inside ? I fitted a lock to mine to be able to leave stuff inside when leaving the car.
I could not imagine having a toggle switch in mine though with all the stuff I usually have inside like leather hood, gloves, various glasses, papers, torch, remote and more (luckily the box is so big)

Jim, love your dash as well. I believe re-using the old holes should be possible - there should not a be lot of strain on the screws once the trim is pre-formed properly so the´ll have to hold themselves more than anything else. Not sure why you want to use brads instead of screws on the outer trim, but I don´t know what was used originally. My glove box does not fully qualify as a sample though, it only has the outer trim, the lid itself is "naked".

Rgds, Mike
Mike Fritsch

>Not sure why you want to use brads instead of screws >on the outer trim, but I don´t know what was used >originally.

Mine origionally had brads. I do have 100 #2 screws however.

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

Mike,
No lock on the glove box door.
If I ever leave my car in a vulnerable place I remove the battery kill switch and garage door opener.
The toggle for the fuel pumps is in an awkward place. A few weeks ago I pulled out of a parking spot in the food market parking lot and the car stalled right in the aisle blocking all traffic. Could not get it to restart. Cranked ok but would not ignite. Took me a few moments to realize I had inadvertently put the switch in the center neutral position and was not getting any fuel. I guess I could use just a two position switch for the two pumps without a neutral or move this switch under the dash. That one was where the PO put it.
Mort 1950 TD Möbius

I could still ues some information oh how the standars flove box door latch works!

Jim B.
JA Benjamin

JA you mentioned a source of dash trim in UK I presume it was more reasonable than that available locally, can't seem to locate the source you noted where is it ??
Jon Levine

...isn't the latch a 'bullet' latch? (if my memory serves....)

Not sure of the size but here is a small one...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=52888&cat=3,41399,41404&ap=1

gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Just measured a spare door I have and it looks to be 3/8".....
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

I got the trim from NTG Motor Services Ltd.
www.mgbits.com.
It cost 71.31 pounds with 17.5 pounds shipping.
$140.27 on my credit card.

Now there is a rectangular latch (picture. I believe this goes on the door? he ball latch goes on the dash frame?

I have no hole in my frame for such a latch.

Thanks.

Jim B.

JA Benjamin

The hole would be in the door itself.....the bullet latch fits down in and catches the striker plate on the frame....
gblawson(gordon- TD27667)

Sorry to be so stiff here.

If you look at the picture in my earlier post of the 18th at 22:11 you will see a rectangular hole in the trim at the top. How does that fit into the latching mechanism?

Thanks

Jim B
JA Benjamin

Reactivated thread.

Jim B did you ever get your glove box issues resolved? I'm working on my dash at the moment & my research has unearthed the following:

The 32 glovebox trim screws are chromed slothead 2# 1/2" wood screws available in brass from Classic Fasteners in Adelaide SA & cost about $11 per 100. Chrome plating in Sydney cost $80 for 200 screws (unpolished).

The 10 glovebox hinge screws are chromed slothead 3# 1/2" wood screws available in brass from Nut & Industrial Fasteners in Sydney NSW & cost about $11 per 100. Again chrome plating in Sydney cost $80 for 200 screws (unpolished).

The 11 chrome plated 3# 1/2" slothead wood screws that the glovebox was originally secured with (4 @ the top, one on each side & 5 across the bottom) are available from Nut & Industrial Fasteners in Sydney NSW. Again they are in brass & require plating.

The 10 Round slothead 3# 1/2" wood screws that secure the under dash trim are also available from Classic (in nickel) & cost about $11 per 100.

The upper dash trim was originally secured with 11 flat head brads. (As they are not seen I used 2# round slothead wood screws in nickel, again from Classic for about $11 per 100, for ease of removal).

The glovebox door stop & ball catch are available from Abingdon Spares with the doorstop fitted to the back of the dash. The ball catch is in the door & engages into the oval recess in the trim.

The glovebox with the oval shaped rear is incorrect & was a Moss item sold in the 80"s. The original rear was the same shape as the opening. There are pics of the original in the archive & a sketch in Green's book. They are not that difficult to make yourself.

The glovebox was originally flocked in brown flocking. After trialling contact adhesive from a can I found it was not durable. I achieved the best result by using Mission Brown Enamel paint in a rattle can & to quickly apply the flock using the dump & shake method before the paint dries.

When I have assembled the dash/subdash on the bench I'll post some pics. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

Here's shot of my TD glove box with a lock. The small wires keep the door horizontal when opened and it seemed so natural a place to put a folding cup holder.

Lou Van Koningsveld

The cup holders are removable, held by velcro. Another shot - Lou Van K.

Lou Van Koningsveld

>Jim B did you ever get your glove box issues resolved? I'm working on my dash at the moment & my research has unearthed the following:
>
Pete;

I have recently realized that the part I was questioning is a door stop. I have not installed it, in fact it may be too late.

>Jim,
Your dash finish looks great. Can't wait to see it when you are finished.
>

I realize my dash my hurt the sensibilities of some, but it, and some other pieces were in a 1966 Moss catalog I have. There were also matching trim pieces for the door openings and the gas tank sides.

I have the door opening trim. I have never seen the gas tank trim but I feel that would be much too garish to use.

If you look at prewar MG performance cars, many had similar dashes. The Saloons were wood faced.

Jim B.


JA Benjamin

Jim. Engine turned accessories such as this were all the rage in the 50's and early 60's. Very period accessory.
Christopher Couper

Commenting on the older post on this thread..if you decide to repair a hole use a plug not a dowel. A set of plug cutters are inexpensive and will last your life time. That way, after the repair, you are screwing into the cross grain rather than the end grain. Also your glue joint will be stronger...no end grain glue joint. Regards, tp
tm peterson

Just fitted the glovebox to the sub dash using the 3# 1/2" brass slotheads. It's just possible they may not have been chromed originally as the brass against the brown flocking blends in really well. Also fitted these screws opposite each of the trim screws which seems to make sense. Will take a couple of pics of the almost completed dash in a couple of days. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

TP, thanks for the reminder. I'm repairing the place on the top rail in front of the scuttle where the supports for the bonnet strip are screwed down. I have plug cutters and plan on drilling a 1/2" hole with a Forstner bit and gluing in a plug. I don't want to hijack this thread so as the project progresses I'll start a new thread. Jud
J K Chapin

This thread was discussed between 18/11/2011 and 16/11/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.