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MG TD TF 1500 - Drip Pan with Ribbed Sump
|How have the drip pans worked out for ribbed sumps? I may have to get one to save face. Bud|
|Hmmm, not a single response. Do the pans work okay with ribbed sumps? Do they not work okay with ribbed sumps? Did you folks with ribbed sumps have to make some sort of modification to get them to work? Would you buy one again? (I won't tell if anybody responds to me via my email address above.) Tnx. Bud|
|Bud, take a look at this thread in the archive: "Ribbed For Her Pleasure (Oil Drip Pan Mods)",|
|Thanks for the lead, Matt. Sounds as if David's the only one who's modified one to work with a ribbed sump. Bud|
|I installed the drip pan and I have a ribbed pan. It was easy to install and the directions Joe provided were dead on. The only concern I had was making sure the old cotter pin did not go into bell housing. I clamped a vice grip on the long end to prevent that from happening. Drip from that area is taken car of but still have a small drip and not sure of source. I cleaned pan and surrounding area and parked for 2 weeks --- had some oil on the floor but as said not sure exactly whete it is coming from -- it is before the new pan and just maybe front seal? Anyway --well worth the money.|
|Bud, I also installed the drip pan on a ribbed sump. You need to get the 'fix' that Joe provides. Fairly easy to do. Make the cotter pin straight, face short leg toward the back of car, hold cotter pin in place with screwdriver wedged between pin and sump, cut short leg off using a dremel tool with cut-off wheel. Takes less then a minute. Grip long leg of pin with vice grips, push pin up into sump so the cut off end of the pin can grip the edge of the hole and then pry out. Grip pin up as far as you can with the vice grips. The rest is easy. Just follw Joe's instructions. Real nice piece of work and the price is right. John 54TF|
|Thank you, Russ and John. Sounds as if the ribbed sump issue has been handled. Now to find the ordering information and contact Joe. People with immaculately sealed driveways shouldn't have friends with T-cars. Bud|
|John, thanks for the Dremel tool tip. I thought maybe I could cut the cotter pin with good side-cutters, but no deal. I did trim my ribbed sump a little, and beveled the area on the catch pan where the cotter pin was in the way, but it doesn't quite fit up tight. I need to do the job right, I did get Joe's "fix kit".|
Al, and Emma (54 TF)
|A W Parker|
|I was going to try it as well Bud, but could never get a hold of the seller. I had a plan to modify the pan for ribs that would work but I think I'll just take the time to make one at this point.|
|Steve, I'm waiting to hear from the seller but I suspect that it's a 9-5 M-F operation. Bud|
|Guess I am the only one that decided to modify the pan instead of the car? |
(Except LaVerne who made his own pan.)
|Nah, Dave, I modified my sump too...who need ribs except for supper?|
|To contact Joe McGinnis, email him directly at:|
He has several on hand , and can ship very quickly.
|I called Joe directly (864-980-1616 (c)) and he took my name & address and shipped it out the same day. Real nice guy..... John|
|Went to British Car Week in Hot Springs, AR last week...my parking spot was clean and dry when I drove away!|
Received an email from Joe yesterday (4 June) saying he only had a few left.
|I'll try him by phone. Emails aren't working. Bud|
|Phoned Joe. It's on its way. Bud|
|Test for reactivation of thread|
|Dallas, I wish I knew what you did. Did you simply open that thread from the archive, add your comment in the block and click on 'Submit'? Just for curiosity, what browser are you using? Bud|
I can't manage to reactivate a threat. I use Apple Safari as browser.
|Received some more from Joe yesterday for resale (at cost) to our New Orleans MG'T' club members. If they're not spoken for I'll make them available to members on this forum...first come, first served. All will come with the kit to use on a ribbed sump.|
|Bud, Yes- I found the thread in the archives, added the test comment - as that what it was; and clicked on submit, same as commenting on an active thread- and it worked. At least that time ;^)|
I am using IE8,on Windows XP on a four old desktop computer. I favor this one due to the 21 inch flat screen monitor.
I am interested in one of the drip pans if any are available. I need one for the TF I am rebuilding.
Back in Ohio yet?
Offer is still open if you want to check out the TF.
Guy up the road has one also I believe to be very "unmolested". I haven't made it over to see the car yet but he is only a few miles from my house so we can do that as well. Fire me an email if interested.
hootersvilledavid "at" yahoo "dot" com
RG Taylor, I am not the person selling the drip pans, it is :
Joe McGinnis, email him directly at:
or call him at 864-980-1616
I have two left (at Joe's price of $54 plus postage...these have the kit so you can use them with the ribbed pan) that I can sell. If interested send me an email (anngene at bellsouth.net)
|Gene, what was/is in the kit to use the drip pan with a ribbed sump. I bought an early one, and didn't ask for the kit. |
|Hi Dallas, et al,|
I bought the "kit" since I also have a ribbed sump. I didn't use it to start because I tried to cut the existing cotter pin with wire cutters, with no luck. So, I beveled the wall of the pan so it would just fit in front of the pin (almost, not perfectly), and ran it that way for ~ 100 mi. There was seepage around the poor fit (lots). Then John Ostergren, here, said he'd used a Dremel tool with small cutoff wheel to cut one leg of the pin. I did that, but then when trying to grip the long leg with visegrips to pull it thru, they slipped off, and of course the pin went up into the bell-housing. short version- I had to remove the sump and retrieve the pin.
The "kit" included a new cotter pin, and a nice small O-ring gasketed plastic plug to put in the exisiting holw, then drill a new hole ~ 1/4" aft. I beveled and filled the old hole with JB-weld, and drilled a new hole. Fits much nicer now, very little weepage after the next 125 mi., and none came out the drain valve.
I did replace the lower halves of the front and rear seals, and sump gasket, maybe that helped my bad leaking problems at both ends. Front is dry now.
Sorry for the long sad story.
54 TF "Emma" (who doesn't mark her territory as much now)
|A W Parker|
|Thanks Al- I saw an earlier post by someone that detailed cutting the cotter pin. I have plenty of cotter pins and various plugs. |
Have put off the installation until I had the car up on jacks for an oil change - or something.
Here's what you get:
1 Pan w/drain
1 Mounting bracket
1 Plastic plug to plug removed cotter hole
1 Cotter w/bushing for newly drilled hole
|My 54 TF has the ribbed sump. I was not comfortable removing the cotter pin and drilling a new hole (OK, I admit I am a coward!) so I did some modifying. Attached is one photo and I will follow with 2 more threads showing additional photos. I cut out a section on the forward part of the drip pan to allow it to fit around the ribs. I then cut a section of sheet metal to cover the opening of the drip pan but with two raised sections bent forward to fit between the center ribs. I used pop rivets to attach the sheet metal to the drip pan and I used J&B weld on the inside to seal the unit. My thinking was that the oil would not drip laterally all that much so the two forward bending tabs should catch most or all of it.|
Now the obvious question, "does it work." I believe it is working OK but I have some oil leaking from the forward seal on the engine and also a leak from the gearbox speedometer housing. Both I will take care of after the summer driving season. I have looked at the drain pan and I have not found any signs that oil is leaking from the drip pan.
|Drip pan photo #2.
|Drip pan photo #3. I forgot to mention that originally I was going to install some sort of material on the ribbed sections to guarantee that no oil would leak around the ribs but the fit was tight enough that I decided it wasn't needed.
|Thanks Gene- I bought the drip pan and bracket, less the cotter pin and plug awhile back. |
I think I can now improvise a plug- have the cotter pins.
|Dallas, one more crucial item visible in Gene's image. Joe's cotter pin is in the center of a tapered split spring ring. It locks the new cotter pin into position. Bud|
|Thanks Bud- I have been thinking about that split ring/bushing and wondering if it would defeat or partially deter the purpose of the "wiggling" cotter pin keeping the drip hole open, or whether the bushing would contribute to plugging. ?|
Still deciding whether I am going with relocating the cotter, or just modifying the pan to fit around the fins.
Reading the instructions Joe provides with the kit it doesn't really sound that hard to remove the cotter.
You cut one leg short (close to the hole) then, while using vice-grips hold on to the long leg of the cotter, push it into the bellhousing and force a small screwdriver between the legs to spread them apart. This should then allow you to work the cotter out of the bellhousing. Plug that hole with the plastic plug, drill a new hole for the new bushing and new cotter.
|Good old "Murphy":|
"of course the pin went up into the bell-housing....I had to remove the sump and retrieve the pin"
I figured that would be my luck as well...that's why I decided to modify the drip pan instead of the sump.
Like what Larry did, but I cut groves for the ribs and a 1/4" gasket so it was "flat" against the sump.
|Dallas - new cotter pin in new hole with split bushing is still 'wiggle'. |
Cut the short leg of the old cotter pin as close as you can to the pan then using a BFV grab the long leg as high as you can but leaving enough length to move the cotter pin up so the cut-off leg can grab the edge of the hole. Grab it REAL tight. You only need to get about a 90 degree bend in the cotter pin head. Release the BFV and rotate the cotter pin up and it will fall out.... John.
PS - you may need to notch the front edge of the drip pan in the middle to make it fit around the plastic plug in the old hole.
|How much did we "collect"? |
Decided to have a look today.
After running hard (the only way I drive this car) for a little over 2000 miles broke my permatex seal on the drip pan to see whats happening in there.
Level was just up to the bottom of the "tap".
(nothing came out when I opemned it)
|For some better perspective...here is what I did not leave in friends driveways.|
(Small baby food jar)
Looks like "draining schedule" should time out just about right with oil changes for something to come out of the tap.
I was courious because I am still getting oil on my floor. Believe most of it is still "seeping" from spots I didn't get cleaned up after the first failed attempt at attaching my aftermarket Valve cover to the Vokes air cleaners.
...but that is another story!
Or dripping out of your speedometer cable? Or do you have the *fix* applied to that as well?
This thread was discussed between 01/06/2012 and 26/06/2012
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