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MG TD TF 1500 - Dual TD fuel pumps
|I have considered adapting my 50 TD into into a two pump system as on the later TDs. I have a few pictures of the correct setup, but all the extra piping seems a bit much. Does the extra supply pipe go all the way back to the tank? Can't I just pump from one pump through the other (less piping)and save the embarrassment of cleaning pump on the side of the road? Drove 7 hours home last fall with no problem, filled tank and the stiring caused excessive rust to clog the pump. Changing filter (after pump)very often hoping rust debris will slowly be eliminated from tank, but I belive I am dreaming.|
I also have an extra mounting plate, but not sure of the correct one for other pump. Anyone have pictures?
|R.AF. Robert Finucane|
Sure you can add another pump, but it will probably also clog with debris and you might end up with the same "side of the road" fix... I would think that you would be better off by coating the inside of the tank and fix the source of the problem.
|On my MKII, the tank is tapped for dual feeds with dual screens back there. Then dual lines in parallel all the way to the front. I don't have a detailed picture of the second pump mounting plate. Since my TD is not a true MKII anymore (original spec engine and carbs were long since removed) I use the second pump as a backup with just one pump feeding the carbs. Every once in a while I switch over to the other pump and vice versa. My permanent backup solution.|
|Here is somewhat of a closeup showing the two fuel pumps.|
|Steve, Thanks; I'm really dealing with two issues, one being piping and mounting, the rust being the other that I'm dreaming will go away. I Rutt, never knew the MK11 had a different tank, interesting. I have a beautiful picture from a GOF last year that is one of the best I have ever seen.|
But can't upload any pictures on this site, says they are to large. Too bad.
|R.AF. Robert Finucane|
|Bob, I suffered, as you have been doing, for several years, with a rusty tank. I was constantly taking the pump apart and cleaning it by the side of the road, and eventually messed up the membrane in the pump. I finally bit the bullet and bought a tank restoration kit from Eastwood. It is a giant pain in the neck to get the rinses and coating evenly distributed through the tank and its baffles, but well worth the effort. After the etching step, I was amazed at how shiney the inside of the tank became! This is accomplished with a mild concentration (which I elected to double) of muriatic acid, that doesn't come with the kit-one needs to purchase this at the local hardware store.|
I highly recommend that you go to the source of the rust and strip and coat the tank; since I did mine about four years ago, this issue has gone away. That was the one reliability issue that I had with car, and now that it has been dealt with, I really enjoy having it out on the road!
I have used this site for resizing images with good success...
|Robert you can edit the size and resave the photos with another name so you don't lose the original. Thats what I have to do with this new fancy smancy Cannon. Should be an edit feature somewhere on your picture tool bar that will let you resize the picture. If you find it practice on a picture you don't care about in case you screw it up.|
|Bob, Also, about the rust; it never goes away, it just gets worse!|
On my vintage bikes I use a special fuel brew to help preserve the tanks and fuel systems as well as the engines.
Start with 93 Octane, add some lead substitute, some stabil (switching to the green marine grade stabil as it's better with the ethanol fuels) and a 50 or 60 to 1 2 stroke oil mix. The oil helps to keep things from rusting in the tanks, keeps the petcocks and slides working nice and smooth in spite of the ethanol.
I'm doing the same with my TD. These new 2 stroke oils do not smoke at all and I'm convinced it helps things all the way through.
|How much oil per tank of gas|
|Robert - Adding an extra pump, using special fuel mixtures or adding additional filters (something that can damage your pump) is treating symptoms. It is time to bite the bullet and get that tank cleaned and treated. You can do it your self as Steve did with the Eastwood kit, or take it into an establishment that does tank cleaning. Either way, it is the only thing that will cure the problem. To add a bit of imputes to the above, every time the filter in your pump clogs, the pump is stalling in a current on condition, causing it to overheat. Left on for any period of time in this condition, the internal swamping resistor will eventually burn out and then, with no arc suppression the points will burn excessively and if replaced, the new points will burn prematurely. Additionally, left untreated, your tank will wind up with rust holes in it, requiring additional work to repair it. Cheers - Dave|
|I use about 8 or 9 oz's of oil per 5 gallon gas can. That and the lead sub and stabil.|
As for the tank rusting, honestly, on my bikes that did have a surface rust problem, once I cleaned them out and have used this oil mix they stay very clean.
Does your fuel tank have the screens on the tank side intakes? I know mine does on both lines. They are pretty fine and will keep pieces out, only allowing the finest materials through.
My tank was a bloddy mess when I started. Full of a tar like material that had everything completely plugged, some rust, pieces of who knows what. I soaked the tank in 2 gallons of carb cleaner for a week, rotating it so the cleaner could clean every part of the tank. Cleaned it up right nice. I then fished out the large metal pieces through the sending unit hole, fixed the sending unit, buttoned it back up and good to go.
I'd say you have nothing to loose by putting 10 or so oz's of 2 stroke oil per 5 gallons of gas in the mix and see what it does. Works for me. Sure made a difference on my motorcycle carbs, keeps them nice and free from sticking.
|Back to the two fuel pumps. The bracket for the second one is/was available from Moss along with the rubber mounting isolators. The tank on my TD had the fuel outlet that went to the original fuel line and a drain plug. After studying some Mark II's I realized that the second fuel line started from the drain plug. So I was able to upgrade to a Mark II fuel system without too much trouble.|
I usually just run one pump and the other is my spare (back-up). All I have to do is move the hot wire from one pump to the other to use the spare. Saved my butt a couple of times when the new fuels loosened some gunk from inside the tank and the active pump stopped pumping. Cleaned things out when I got home and haven't had a problem since.
Hope this helps someone who is contemplating dual fuel pumps.
|The MK II does not have a different fuel tank. It just uses different fittings.|
This thread was discussed on 12/03/2010
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