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MG TD TF 1500 - Dynamator
Hey all, I got a Dynamator for Xmas and I am looking to install it soon. I have found some info online about the application but was wondering if anyone has some insight on the install. Maybe pictures, diagrams, or whatever I may need to know to wire this thing up! I have a positive ground car and it looks like I will have to use the relay for the ampmeter? Thanks in advance. Rich |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Rich, I purchased my Dynamator directly from England. As I recall some of their diagrams were less-than-perfect. As you can see from the drawing I made, I have a positive ground TD with a pertronix ignition. I gutted the regulator and use it as a terminal strip. Hope this helps. Mort |
Mort Resnicoff |
Yeah that should help a lot! Thanks Mort |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Rich, see http://www.ttalk.info/Dynamator-for-Lazarus.html for some info on installing a Dynamator in Lazarus (neg. ground). Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Hi all, I have a 53 TD positive ground with pertronix ignition and led tail lights with a 5 post voltage regulator. Is there a reliable schematic out there I can use for a Dynamator conversion? thanks in advance Bill Brown TD24570 |
Bill Brown |
Bill Brown, I have a 50 TD positive ground with pertronix ignition and led tail, brake, stop and dash lights with a gutted voltage regulator. See my schematic above. Mort |
Mort Resnicoff |
Hi Mort, The difference is that your has a 9 post voltage regulator and mine is a 5 post. I was wondering how the wiring was handled on the 5 post. Thanks, Bill TD24570 |
Bill Brown |
Bill Brown, It doesn't matter if it is a 5 post or a 9 post. The Dynamator has its own built in regulator and yours becomes nothing but a terminal strip. You can wire in any way you want. I took everything out of the inside of the regulator. This is a slight update to my sketch. I put the flasher on the hot side of the ignition switch so I can use my 4 way flasher if I should need it. As you can see, everything else is hot with the key on. Mort |
Mort Resnicoff |
I think Bud’s diagram shows it correct. Gut the regulator, join A1 & A2, link that to D with a 40A fuse. Move ignition warning light to F which uses the old F wire from generator to link to smaller terminal on dynamotor. Output of dynamotor gets a new thicker wire, goes to D on gutted regulator. That’s it from what I can see. Peter |
P G Gilvarry |
Bill/Rich, if you want to keep the OEM look for the wiring, complete with Voltage Regulator, it's fairly easy to do. In my posting up above you'll see a link to how I wired my negative ground TD with an internally modified Control Box. The VR/CB box only contains a 40 amp fuse in the Dynamator output line. The A and A1 terminals are shorted together and connected to one end of the Dynamator output fuse. The other end of the fuse is connected to the D terminal of the VR. That's where the generator output is normally connected. In my case, the Ignition Lamp wire is moved from the D terminal to the F terminal. All of the TD fuses are connected in their normal positions. You'll need to work out the wiring of the extra relay in the field circuit with the Ignition Lamp. All of the other wiring stays just where it's presently connected. The caveat on this is that I have not physically wired up a positive ground Dynamator. I've been very happy with my negative ground one. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
thanks guys! |
Rich King TD 8732 |
Coincidently there is an article in this months MG Octagen Car Club magazine by an owner discussing that very subject. Advice and pitfalls. |
JK Mazgaj |
Almost 11 months later the Dynamator is installed and working! I still need to sort out a problem with my blinkers not working but everything else is up and running. No it didn't take 11 months to install, just a day. It took 11 months to plan for the install! :)
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Rich King TD 8732 |
This thread was discussed between 09/02/2020 and 16/11/2020
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