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MG TD TF 1500 - Dynamator Experiences?
|A couple of years ago I purchased a very expensive (cú400) alternator for the TF. After numerous burn outs Moss admitted defeat and gave me my money, including all additional costs, back. Totally wasn't their fault and their service was first class. I was so fed up that I converted one from a Renault Clio to tacho drive and fitted it to the TF. It has performed faultlessly but there are two issues. Firstly it looks like a conversion and people, even non enthusiasts, notice it. At a recent car show a father pointed out to his two young sons the modification. Secondly the diameter is slightly larger than the dynamo and if I need to remove the belt I have to force the casing against the block to allow the belt to slip over the pulley.
I am now considering buying a Dynamator from the Octagon Club. These are substantially cheaper than the dynamo lookalike I purchased previously. Because of the modest cost I am seeking feedback from anyone who has fitted a Stealth Dynamator re the quality and reliability of the product.
|Jan. I fitted one and have had no issues whatsoever. It is slightly larger diameter than the original dynamo but appearance is very similar. I gutted the voltage reg and fitted a 40Amp fuse inside, and uprated the wiring. I also have an MGB type 7 blade fan.|
For completeness I also added a voltmeter initially, but deciding this was too obtrusive I replaced it with a Voltage indicating LED from Gammatronix. This can be set up to monitor the battery or alternator.
Can you still remove the fan belt without issue? You will see from the attached pic that there isn't much clearance between the block and the alternator and I can't loosen the belt sufficiently to remove it without the use of a leaver on the pulley. Conversely I can't fit a longer belt since the other side of the alternator will hit the steady bar.
I have a heavy duty wire from the alternator output to the battery, a wire to the warning lamp and a sensing wire to the ignition switch circuit. Is it the same for the dynamator and are the terminals spade or eyelet?
|There is a bit more space than you have there and the fan belt is just about removable. I have fitted a cogged belt which has a bit more flexibility. The big terminal on the end is a large spade type and the terminal on the side is either. I'll attach a photo. |
|Just installed one a few days ago. Rather interesting.
It performs almost exactly like the old generator- puts out current to meet the modest needs while driving; drops well into minus amps at idle with lights and heater on and voltage dips under 10V on the system. It's not like you can idle at a stop light with lights, wipers and heater on and expect it will be charging. Nice to think there's power-to-spare for electric fan and maybe a 5000 watt amplifier!
The main question I had going into the swap was the 12V feed they wanted but didn't specify electrical values. Winging it, I grabbed a 500 watt resistor guesstimating thats about what the charging bulb and resistor wire might present. That wire & resistor were wired to a 12V source activated by the ignition switch.
When I first started the engine, the voltmeter & ammeter were motionless- nothing happening. Disappointment turned to confusion when I revved the engine and everything sprang to life. Repeat starts produced the same inactivity while the gas pedal produced electricity! I checked my 12V source and it was live until the spade terminal was attached and then voltage disappeared. It was drawing .024 amps so it wasn't violating Ohms law. No mystery, just way too much resistance. When I disconnect the small wire, the alternator behaved the same- lifeless on start up, but self energizing with the first touch of the throttle. Live and learn.
I had been using an Edsel 3 wire regulator, the fancy kind with the clear cover. I already have about ten 20 amp circuit breakers installed on the car and had a few more laying around so I couple two together to make a 40 amp circuit breaker, coupled the heavy wires through them, and left the original field wire hooked to the voltage regulator as it isn't hooked to anything at the other end.
The tiny LED that served faithfully for years as the charging indicator never lights up now when the ignition is switched on. Don't know why, and doubt I'll investigate as my wife is the only driver and has no idea what it was there for.
|What the heck, it's 2 am and was headed for bed, and then I gave that charging indicator a half-a-thought and it seems obvious the alternator is always hooked to the battery and there'll never be a voltage gradient between the two to light the little bulb.|
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This thread was discussed between 25/07/2017 and 02/08/2017
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