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MG TD TF 1500 - Engine Storage

I am into year two of my complete TD rebuild, having acquired an unfinished frame off restoration project on Ebay (PO of 30+ years died before finishing). Since it has taken me this long to get the frame ready to paint, I know it will be several years before I complete the project. My question is what should I do with the engine in the meantime? It was supposedly rebuilt as part of the restoration, but I have not confirmed that by removing the head - the head does look like it was hot tanked as it is very clean and unpainted. There is oil in the sump and the engine turns over easily by hand. Should I periodically shoot a little oil in the cylinders and crank over a couple of times with the handcrank? I plan a more thorough inspection as I get further along but I want to avoid any deterioration. All of the parts are in a heated dry garage, so moisture is not a risk. Thanks for your help.

Don
don scott

Keep it all lubricated...as you say...shoot oil in the plug holes and anywhere that might rust...keep an eye on the oil and maybe change it once a year (don't think you have to change the filter)... Have someone pull a cap and confirm the crank was/is good...saw a $5000.00 xpag that needed a ton of work!!!!
gblawson - TD#27667

I'd drain the oil and remove the filter and replace the canister and refill with fresh oil. Remove the spark plugs and add about a tablespoon of fresh oil to each cylinder and rotate the engine a couple of rotations and replace the plugs. Pull the distributor cap and add a few drops of oil under the rotor. keep the air filter on or remove the carbs and tape the manifold openings shut. I did none of that to mine and it sat on the floor of a heated shop for 2 1/2 years before I took it apart without any problems

LaVerne
LED DOWNEY

Although putting oil into the cylinders keeps the rings and pistons from sticking what about the valve train, and bearings? I would go a step further and fit a starter. Every now and then pull the plugs, add oil, and crank with the starter until you see oil coming from the rockers. You will have to plug the fitting for the oil pressure guage. After cranking you may want to add a dab more oil to the cylinders.
Blake
BeeJayU

Hello,
I would even consider testing the engine outside the car or on the bare chassis before fitting the body.
You don't know who did it so a lot can be wrong (of course hopefully not)
Xpagengines are notorious oilleakers as we all know and building a testrig is not that difficult.

You can also find out if for instance the oilpressure is allright and if the engine doesn't run hot.

Removing your engine from your newly restored car is
more difficult with risk of damage.

I had to remove it three times before building a testrig.......
(foto's available)
Erik vanHardeveld

A couple of extra thoughts not already mentioned.

Build or have someone build a suitable frame or cradle to mount the engine solidly. Make sure there is clearance under the sump and it is not possible for the engine to topple over. If it does you can pretty much guarantee the carbs or something equally expensive will go down with the engine. You may want to put wheels on the cradle to move it more easily.

Make sure the engine can be covered with a tarp or suitable cover wich does not touch the engine and which allows air to circulate freely.

Leave the starter fitted and fill with new oil and filter if the oil in the sump is questionable.

Remnove the plugs and turn the engine over on the starter after removing the plugs and squiting a little fresh clean oil into the cylinders. This will help prevent corrosion in the starter circuit and windings and the generator.

Coat the water pump drive belt and all hoses with Armour All or something similar.

Finally make sure the engine is stored somewhere safe where it is not possible to mistake it for a table , workbench or whatever. Having some one drop a heavy load of 2x4's on it will not help one bit.

Cheers , Pete.
Peter Thomas

I'm still struggling with the expression "Frame-Off" restoration (see archives). So far, nobody's been able to explain to me, how one takes off the frame without first removing the body/tub. Its a expression used by hot-rodders that one often sees and I'm sure that they mean 'body-off', or 'frame-up' but frame off??? Never.

When storing your engine, don't make the mistake of using penetrating oils. These contain esters that evaporate, and once behind the ring lands, for example, will only harden any oils that may already be there.

Penetrating olis are fine when you are re-starting your engine after a long dormancy, but not suitable for long-term storage.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.
Gordon A. Clark

If you want to spin your engine without using a starter motor, make up a shaft which fits into the spot where the crank haddle goes, and chuck it in a 3/4 chuck electric drill. Put it on slow speed. It will spin the motor OK , especially with the plugs out. Make sure you have a tight grip on the drill handle though!
Regards, Richard.
R Payne

Richard,

Easily said, but not easily done.

You run on 220 volt service which makes the use of powerful hand tools much easier than US/Canada, with our dark ages 115 volt service.

A ¾" electric drill on 115 volts, would probably blow thw main breaker on inrush while the war department is trying to dry her hair on the same circuit.

Me, I'll stick to my trusty crank handle.

But thanks for the idea.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.

PS:- I've just installed a European 220V electric kettle. Probaly against the code, but it sure makes a difference! I can have a cuppa java in 45 seconds!

gc
Gordon A. Clark

Don,

If the PO used assembly lube on the cam and lifters, I would leave it alone. You should be able to tell by removing the tappet cover. A shot of engine oil in each cylinder should be enough if it is in dry storage.

The oil in the sump won't go bad as long as the engine isn't started.

If you start the engine, you will wash off any assembly lube.

Good luck,
Evan
Evan Ford - TD 27621

Gord,I suppose if you halve the volts you double the amps. My drill did not trip a 10 amp breaker, but if we assume 10 amps at 240 volts, then at 115 you would need about 20 amps, so you are right , it probably wouldn't work in the US. On the other hand, it would only take a few minutes to make up an adaptor and try it. I wonder why the US ended up with 115 volts ? Was it just anti -British sentiment at the time, or is there some more significant reason?
Regards, Richard.
R Payne

Richard,

We're getting miles off the topic (I started it!) but until after WWII there was a real hodge-podge of voltages AND frequencies.

The New England states had some 200 volt 50 Cycle, Northern Maine in particular, but by 1940, most of the US had gone to 117 (nominal) 60~ (today called 'hertz').

Canada on the other hand was very late in converting. Southern Ontario was still on 25 cycle 220 volts and 25 cycle 110 volts as late as 1953. The 25 cycle stuff was hard on the eyes. The Adam Beck dam in Niagara Falls was 25 cycle and to replace those generators was a major expense for Ontario Hydro.

As I understand it, the US and Canada settled on 115 (nominal) because some weirdo felt that 220V was too dangerous. Meanwhile, the rest of the world moved ahead with 220/50~.

Full of trivial but useless info,
Gord Clark
Somewhere in the wilds of southern Québec.
Gordon A. Clark

Ahhhh Gordon.. then you remember the 'Ontario Hydro' trailer truck that visited every town in the Province with new 'free clocks'... people walked through and picked up a kitchen wall clock and a bedside table clock... I was about 7 or 8 years old! Assume it was the only way they could convince we Canadians to 'change'.... (and of course the old ones wouldn't have kept correct time) Hey, free health care and free clocks....(and shoes for Industry), not bad!!!!!
gblawson - TD#27667

This thread was discussed between 02/09/2006 and 07/09/2006

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