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MG TD TF 1500 - First startup MG TF #1414

I notice when restoring TF #1414, there are some parts of the restoration we use at "benchmarks" in regards to progress as we re-assemble the car -- lowering the newly painted frame and chassis from the lift with all four wheels installed finally on to the ground; lowering the engine and gearbox and mating it to the chassis; mounting the original re-chromed grill; and lastly getting the engine started for the first time.

Last time I heard it start was 26 years ago. When the fuel pump was juiced up from the battery and hearing that ticking sound, hearing the four cylinder engine fire up, and the exhaust note... it all came back to me like it was yesterday. Amazing how our senses recall vividly certain things...

Used the fuel pump that was on the car. I think it was a 60's or later replacement because it is not a SU AUA25 fuel pump. The label wrapped around the cover is blue that says BERLIN. Just needed the points to be cleaned and it worked perfectly. Used the original Lucas coil with date stamped July 1953. Say what you want about Lucas but 60+ year old parts and it still works... you are lucky if parts from NAPA that last six months...

Got the distributor dialed in per recommendations from Jeff from Advanced. Set idle at 800 RPMs. I looked in the WSM and could not find any specs to set idle at. I did a quick search and found 800 to 900 is a good place to be. I saw a post that said 500 but I think that is too low in my opinion. No oil or water leaks. At operating temperature with 10W30 weight multi-grade oil, oil psi was 25. PSI rose quickly to 40-45 PSI with RPM's increased. I was able to find in the WSM 40-45 PSI was within specs.

I posted a short You Tube video clip of start up. I think she runs like a Swiss watch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNgEEJO22nI&feature=youtu.be

Now it is time to focus on the tub.

Best,

Frank



Frank Cronin

Frank,
How Sweet It Is! Wasn't that long ago we had a running chassis on and under the hoist!
The last couple years of driving it made the work all worthwhile.
I have to say, your shop is neat!
JIM



JRN JIM

Frank
Yes, very sweet! Sound like my TF.
Say, I see you have a original type steel exhaust. Maybe you want to keep it that way.
I happen to have a new, in the box, NOS steel TF muffler I want to part with.
Email me if you are interested.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Frank
Yes, very sweet! Sound like my TF.
Say, I see you have a original type steel exhaust. Maybe you want to keep it that way.
I happen to have a new, in the box, NOS steel TF muffler I want to part with.
Email me if you are interested.

Tom
'54 TF
T Norby

Wow! Awesome job!! Such attention to detail! Well done. She sounds as good as she looks. Your shop looks great too.
I'm sure the rest of the he car will look this good too, and you will have one of the nicest TFs in existence.
-David
D. Sander

Hi Frank,

Congratulations on a beautiful job on your TF
running chassis.Nice to see the correct detail
on well restored TFs.

The body tub will test your continuing patience
and zeal. However,keep asking questions and take
your time.When those doors 'click' into full lock.
the effort involved is all worth it.

Cheers for now.
Rob Grantham
TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos")
R GRANTHAM

Frank,
Where did you get your hose clamps? I can't find clamps for the metal pipe to rubber radiator hose clamps that fit. You may remember them leaking at Oneinta. I've tried them from Moss and Abingdon.
Thanks,
-David
D. Sander

Hi Dave,

The top hose wire clamps are factory that I just cleaned up and had soft zinc plated to match close to period correct cadmium plating. These two clamps to the top hose and on the steering wheel column were the only surviving wire clamps on the car.

The clamps to the lower branch pipe I ordered from Doug Pelton, From the Frame Up. I did have to do some work to the wires to make it tight to prevent weeping. The screws from Doug were nut drive so I went to the hardware store and got round flat head slotted screws, did some grinding to get the contour shape of the originals, and plated soft zinc. Maybe Doug has what you need for the top radiator hose?

Frank



Frank Cronin

Frank, a little new year humour, with a hidden message or two.

I always thought the factory used those wire clips to ensure the dealerships got some engine reconditioning work, as they usually leaked.

60+ year old Lucas coil, all Lucas coils are fitted with the prince of darkness pre-conditioning, when you go on your first long trip take a new tested spare with you.

All the best for 2014.
Rod Brayshaw

Hi Tom,

The exhaust system is a three piece Bell stainless exhaust system I purchased from EnglishParts.com. I ceramic coated the short pipe from the header to the silencer. I painted it black with high temp black paint like it was done at the Factory.

For a nice clean look and to make similar to the welded one piece factory system, I used 1 3/4" Torca clamps. Makes a nice tight 360 degree seal and looks better than the standard U bolt clamps.

I bought them from here.

http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/Shop-by-Brand/Torca


Frank




Frank Cronin

My engine had no original clamps on it. I found that you can get the original style wire clamps, but the screw is wrong. It has a hex head screw and the originals were dome shaped. I bought wire clamps from Moss and replaced all the screws with a dome head screw. To the novice, they look original. I even contacted Jubilee and got the right clamp for the air cleaner crankcase vent line. Only problem there is, I talked to a company rep and Jubilee doesn't use the cheese head screw anymore. PJ




Paul S Jennings

The Jubilee clamp,


Paul S Jennings

Hi Frank
It's looking real good, I am just about the same point with mine. Same problem with the hose clips from Moss Will follow post's with interest.
Cheers
Blair R
B A Robson

This thread was discussed between 01/01/2014 and 03/01/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.