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MG TD TF 1500 - Floorboards
|I had to remove the floorboard to get at the master cylinder. The screws were all rusted solid, I was able to free a couple using an impact driver but the rest were goners. The floorboard itself was disintegrating around the edges and rotting badly.|
I cut a new one using half inch ply and the original (in two pieces) as a pattern. It fits pretty well and I'm using multiple coats of varnish cut 50% with paint stripper so the varnish will really "soak" into the ply esp on the edges. All in all, not bad for $10 worth of materials ($175 new from Moss).
I'm wondering what the best method for attachment should be. I'm not sure the original attachment points are going to work, some may be OK but the ones on the handbrake side are pretty rusted. Plus, the kit from Moss is an amazing $35 for screws, nuts and washers ...
Suggestions? I was thinking of just countersinking self threading machine screws...
|G M Baker|
|They might be expensive but I think worth it to screw into the original 1/4" captive nuts. Just put some antisieze on the screws as you do it. That will help preserve them.|
On mine, instead of using wood screws into the timbers on the sides, I plugged those holes in the timbers and drilled through the angle iron along the sides and used through bolts. Thus preventing an access path into the side timbers. I preserved all wood with sealent and varnished the floor boards with several coats. Looks too good to cover with carpet. BTW I used marine grade plywood as it has more layers and machined up real nice.
|The handbrake side has nuts welded to the support rails. Easy to drill and tap. Correct thread tap available from British Fasteners or Moss or Abingdon Spares. BTW, you didn't need to remove the boards to do the master cylinder. The Moss kit is cad or equivalent plated, correct threads, correct screw heads, and has the correct washers and is a bargin considering. George|
|GB, you are correct, I could remove master cylinder by merely removing the metal box. However, the condition of the plywood had me worried, and rightly so... it was not going to last. |
I believe with cleaning I can reuse the fasteners on the handbrake side, so I will order enough screws to fit. On the LH side, I think I will do as Irutt suggests and drill through the angle iron and use larger bolts with countersunk heads and possibly hex or torx, as they will be easier to remove.
And yes, the plywood will look nice when I've finished varnishing it... I might not cover with carpet!
I'm also repainting the metal plate (master cylinder cover) that fits in the floorboard and may switch to using countersunk bolts there as well.
Just discovered I need new handbrake cables also.
|G M Baker|
|BTW, I bought bulk gasket material from Napa and cut to fit to act as the spacer between floor boards and frame etc. I also used some 3m double sided tape to hold it all in place when attaching floor boards. I bought 1/16 and 1/8 and cut and stacked as required to get perfect fits. Worked great.|
This thread was discussed on 30/10/2009
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