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MG TD TF 1500 - Floorboards back in 51TD

Today I finally reinstalled the floorboards as well as the pedal fume excluder rubber base, accordion and metal surround. Everything fit pretty well - all things considered. They must have employed midgets at the MG factory to get into that section and get all the tricky bits together.
Not sure if I did it all right, but it's tighter than its been in 30 years... all pretty well sealed. Now I have to get the carpet in and the steering wheel leather excluder and it should be close to complete!
Just one question at the moment: in the picture below is another hole through the firewall. It carries my water temp sensor tubing. Not sure if this is period correct (it's an after market gauge) but can anyone tell me if there is a correct rubber grommet for this hole? Part number?

Geoffrey M Baker

A/S 043-090. Bud
Bud Krueger

Does anybody know if this is included in Moss grommet set? "GROMMET SET, firewall (6 grommets)" 281-128

Geoffrey M Baker

The moss grommets are a joke. And no they don't have the proper grommet for the temp gauge, oil line and I forgot the other. You might as well go to the hardware store and get them there. You'll save money and frustration on the rest of them. I will try one of the A/S ones. I even reordered from Moss and got the same ones definitely not an item to get from them.


Bill Chasser
Bill Chasser Jr

Try Nisonger Gauges. when they redid my gauge it came back with a grommet that fit nicely. they may sell you one.
TLW Wright

Hi Geoffrey, just curious, what is that rectangular thing next to that hole. It looks connected with a black wire but what is it? Huib
Huib Bruijstens


It looks like a ballast resistor for the coil to me. If so then it needs to be wired through a relay or a solenoid. It helps cold starting.
Not really needed on our cars, unless you are in very cold climates.

J Scragg

Your guess is as good as any... It was a Colorado car so may well have been for cold starts.
Geoffrey M Baker

It does connect to the coil. I just checked. Am I correct in assuming I can just remove it and connect the two wires together and it will work fine? I've never really looked at it before, as it never was a problem! But as John says, probably if I was to keep it I should use a relay...
Geoffrey M Baker


Coils requiring ballast resistors are normally 6 or 9 volts, so you cannot just short out the resistor. If you want to remove the ballast resistor you will need to replace your coil with a 12 volt one.


J Scragg


It looks like a PO installed an incorrect coil and a ballast resistor to make it correctly functional. Remove both and install a 12 volt coil if you are one who wants everything correct. If is runs well. as is, it is your decision. I think your PO liked to tinker with the original design.


Jim Haskins 1953 TD

J. M. Haskins

Its labeled Jacobs Electronics Energy Coil p/n 380672

A search shows no info although there is an Australian ignition performance company called Jacobs Electronics.
Geoffrey M Baker

Jim, that sounds likely. A lot of the work done on this car appears to have been done not with correct parts but with whatever was handy!
Geoffrey M Baker


12 volt coils come in 2 different varieties. Internally or externally resisted. The original coil was the former. What you have on your car is not original and requires a ballast resistor to limit the voltage through the points; otherwise, they will turn blue and burn up in short order. The gent from France was correct. For years, American cars used a by-pass circuit to aid in cold starting that supplied 12 volts through the coil only when the engine was cranking. MG did not do this and it is not necessary.

If you ever need advice, you can call me. I have done quite a few of these cars.

Gregory S
La Grange, Il
(708) 715-5517
GMS Serduke

This thread was discussed between 21/11/2015 and 24/11/2015

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