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MG TD TF 1500 - front oil seal

Can anybody confirm that the modern front seal for the XPAG is :- 72mm X 54mm X 8mm.
For some reason I have 2 sizes listed.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

The size you show is a front wheel bearing seal. I have about 3 of the front crank seals in my shop. I'll get you a size and the part number here shortly
L E D LaVerne

Both came from Moss


L E D LaVerne

Part numbers


L E D LaVerne

36 x 47 x 7


L E D LaVerne

Sorry about that, I should have realised that the size I gave was far to big. I re-wrote my list and somehow mixed them up.
Ray
Ray Lee

Hi Ray,

This is VITAL info! If you are reusing your old pulley a "standard" seal from the usual suppliers will leak. I fell into this trap and had to drop the sump twice. You need one 1m/m under size on the bore. As usual I didn't take note of the sizes but BSL Brammer will measure the pulley stub and sell you a seal for literally pence.

Good luck

Jan
J Targosz

Jan,
I will be using a speedi sleeve and a Viton double lip seal. Also routing the retaining groove to centralise the new seal.
Ray
Ray Lee

In that case you might consider what I used


L E D LaVerne

Even correctly marked TF :-)


L E D LaVerne

I used Gene's tool to bore the face.


L E D LaVerne

Hi Ray,

Why are you using a speedy sleeve? You will be able to buy one from BSL. I have always found them very helpful and in fact when I purchased the correctly sized seal from them it was at their closing time and they had cashed up so they gave me two seals free of charge.

Jan
J Targosz

May be you already know, but it is very important to get the front seal aligned properly, otherwise it can leak a lot. Mine did so. In the link below I have shown how to use an adapter to fit it properly. After having done so, there is no leak at all.

In the Moss rear seal the drainage is placed so high that a pool of oil will be formed at the bottom of the seal retainer. The crank flange will rotate in this pool and act as a centrifugal pump and fill the grove inside the seal and in my case it leaked 75 gr/h at idling.

I also use the sleeve that I think is advisable, even if you have a good surface on the flange. With the modified drainage of the seal shown in the link below, it leaked 0.6 gr. during a 40 km drive including 2 half hour stops. After the 40 km drive it leaked 2 drops in one hour and whether that came from the seal or the gearbox I don´t know.

http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/or17?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=8&subjectar=8&thread=201707252024003551
YS Strom

Jan,
It is not my car and there is wear on the pulley, not cracked but surface wear.
In my previous life as a Hospital maintenance engineer sleeves saved many shafts from the scrapyard.

YS Strom,
A correctly fitted rotary seal should not leak. Some seals are fitted in totally submerged conditions
Ray
Ray Lee

I mentioned this in another post recently. The B&G machined crank pulley is a good solution to the problem of pulley surface wear.

https://www.ukmgparts.com/product/tbtc-midcat-3-subtbtc2-engine-internal-parts/crank-pulley-front-t-type-aaa5779
J Barry

Agree Jan,it shouldn´t leak. I have designed and built a lot of machines for industrial use and have never had problem with leaks and the gearboxes rarely leak.

However, this seal was installed 100 % to the instruction and it leaked and I know more people who have had the same experience, despite the seals were installed properly, so that is not always the explanation for leaks. The first Moss seals were also said to be tight, but they weren't. These are much better I have been told, but as they don´t always get tight, I think they are still not perfect. High speed and temperature is a challenge. Therefore I believe it is a good idea to drain the oil pool in the seal casing, that the flange rotates in and also use a sleeve. They have a very smooth surface and even if marginal, the increased diameter might also help to seal. After doing so I have no leaks.
YS Strom

LaVerne, if it’s not too personal a question, what does Gene’s tool look like?
C I Twidle

Haha, I was thinking the same thing, but hesitated to ask!
Dave H
Dave Hill

I'm sure there is a joke there :-)





L E D LaVerne

Tiny end mill bits do the cutting


L E D LaVerne

Adjustable and held in place with allen head screws


L E D LaVerne

Tapped to use bolts for turning


L E D LaVerne

I sped the process up


L E D LaVerne

Close up


L E D LaVerne

Lots of shavings


L E D LaVerne

nice round opening for the seal I used


L E D LaVerne

Perfect fit and concentric with the crank


L E D LaVerne

Thanks guys for the prompt replies. So:
my tappet cover will work but could be better. It’s a balance between bling and oil vapour control. If i fabricate a spigot to link the rocker cover to the air filters that may reduce the need for the extended tappet cover breather pipe.
Now, do I fancy building a replica of Gene’s tool? I’ll see what I can cobble together....
C I Twidle

This thread was discussed between 14/11/2017 and 16/11/2017

MG TD TF 1500 index

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