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MG TD TF 1500 - fuel tank restoration

Hi all. I have a 53 TD that I am restoring and the fuel tank, while not leaking, has minor rust inside the tank. I was thinking of using the POR15 tank restoration kit or the one by Moss. I was talking to some friends who have worked on older MGs and they said not to use these chemicals and that I must replace the tank. Has anyone used the chemical fuel tank restoration products and, if so, what are your thoughts on them? Thanks!
Mike
MP Perrino

Mike
You can get a lot of useful information on this subject in the archives. One thing you need to be careful, no mater who's products you use, is that it is resistant to alcohol. Most slouch sealers that say aviation grade will do the trick. Good luck and keep us posted. Roger
Roger Thompson

Mike
Sorry I got the cart before the horse! Yes, you can remove the rust and reseal the tank. Most of the kits contain a mild solution of etching acid, which will clean the rust. Follow the directions and hopefully it won't open pin holes in your tank. Even if it dose the sealer should take care of them, if they are not to big. I suspended my tank in the garage and just slowly turned it and rocked it back and forth. Again good luck and keep us posted on your progress. Roger
Rodger T.

Roger;
Aviation grade slosh is the only way to go with todays fuel; Locate you aviation supply store in your area. You may have to contact the maintenance department at your local airport using airport transfers tunbridge wells to locate one. I use the one in Tampa and have had excellent results on numerous tanks.
Sandy Sanders
Hudson Florida
Sandy Sanders

I recently used the POR kit after some investigation with other old car forums. The best results were obtained with this product. Poor results were reported by more than one user with one popular product in the form of "slimy strings" separating from the tank. I followed the clear directions
(they are posted on PORs website) and had good results, which I believe is very important in any brand. The acid cleaner did a very good job and the tank looked new inside after this stage. I had planned, and was able to do the final coating later the same day, per the instructions.
I did notice a tendency of the chemical to bubble or foam, so I was careful not to shake the tank, but tilt it in different positions to let gravity flow provide overall coverage as best as possible. The baffles may or may not be completely coated as they are not clearly visible.
I was pleased and comfortable with the perceived results.
Dallas Congleton

Thanks Rodger and Sandy. If I understand correctly, I should use aviation grade slosh, not the Moss stuff, but then use the Moss etcher and sealer? Mike
MP Perrino

Dallas,

The POR looks like a good product and is cheaper than the Moss kit. I use Moss as an example as I figure more people are familiar with it. I am now wondering if the POR product is good enough of if the aviation grade slosh is necessary. The inside rust is not heavy and there is no rust thru anywhere.
MP Perrino

Mike,

I used the Moss sealer and etch. It's actually Hirsch sealer and is alcohol resistant. http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=6&CATID=3

During the etch and cleaning, drop a length of chain in the tank and tumble to help break loose rust. You can reach the middle section between the baffles thought the sending unit hole and one end through the filler neck.

Good luck,
Evan
Evan Ford - TD 27621

I have always read that sloshing compound for aviation fuel tanks is not as reliable for autos due to the additives that are in automotive fuels that are not found in aviation fuel. That said, I used an aviation sloshing compound in the tank of our TD back in the early 80s when automotive fuel was relatively unadulterated and have not had any problems with it. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Been a number of years since I sloshed my tank. I used the moss product and have not had any problems. I used a mirror and looked in the tank. Still appears to be in place from what I could see.
Bruce Cunha

For $125.00 i had a local rad shop who advertises fuel tank sealing do the job... Noticed that by the time you add up all the kits and rigs and etc, that it wasn't to much more. He soaked the tank for a few days in something that would kill dolphins... then coated the inside with a red sealer... so far haven't had anything red in my fuel filter....
gordon lawson - TD 27667


I had no luck with local radiator shops for a coating- they were willing to clean the old tank, but I sensed they may have had bad luck with coatings. On newer cars and trucks they just replace the tanks.
The POR15 final coating is a watery silver solution in the can, sorta looks like the old type metal roofing paint, but chemically cures very hard. After tilting the tank around for coating, I poured the remains out into a 5 gallon bucket and let it sit, to dispose of it later. It cured hard in the bottom of the bucket, over 1 inch thick. It didn't adhere to the plastic, and I bumped it out to dispose of. Seemed to be durable.
I put in back in the bucket and poured some gas from my mower can over it, and let it sit for a couple of days. No noticeable effect on the clump, or no color leaching into the gas. This is not an endorsement, just my experience to date.
The Model A guys are fighting older tanks, with no after market replacements. Some reported problems with the Moss product and and some with the Eastman product. They suspect the new blends of gas. I have to assume they followed directions, but it is a multi step process and requires a careful etching, and a THROUGH drying of the tank before coating. The coating should be applied as soon as possible after drying the tank.

There have been some reports of particles flaking from the POR15 coating. It would be my observation that this might be due to leaving it in the tank for too many rotations and tilts, and consequently getting some re coating which may try to layer.
FWIW
Dallas
Dallas Congleton

Gordon - It's nice to know that you won't have any errant dolphins swimming around in your gas tank ;) Dave
David DuBois

Thanks to all for the posts. I am satisfied that I can clean the tank as opposed to forking out $1000 for a new one from Moss and that "errant dolphins" will not plague my fuel system.
MP Perrino

I took my tank (which was not leaking) to dave's Rad here in Warren, MI and for $500 here's what he did; repaired the pin holes that were underneath the rubber tank straps, removed all rust cut hole so as to do baffles and rewelded, coated whole inside, and painted outside to match car. He does a lot of big buck muscle cars and real older highend cars. So far all seems wonderfull.
Greg & grimm
G.J. Cenzer

Old age dementia. I guess I should have mentioned that over the years from 1960 on I have done a lot of biker tanks and midget tanks and a B tank my self using POR and other similar products with never a problem, it's just that with the TD tank being so exposed I wanted a pro job done (did the same thing in '63 with my J2) biker tanks being so much smaller they are a breeze to do. I did my last BSA tank in '86 and when I sold it in 2004 the inside was just as clean as the day I did it in '86. So don't hesitate to do it your self just be diligent and carefull. Greg & Grimm
G.J. Cenzer

About 20 to 25 years ago, a friend bought some aviation fuel tank cleaner and sealer kit. We processed both our takns and it still seems to be in very good condition. Apparently, the automotive fuel additives have had no effect on it.
Jim Merz

This thread was discussed between 18/11/2005 and 20/11/2005

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