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MG TD TF 1500 - Fuel Tank Sender
I know there is a lot in the archives, but I am interested to know the most current opinion about how to seal up a leaking gas tank sender. Can anyone provide me with the source of the preferred rubber gaskt, if that is still the best option? And is there a recommended sealer that is impervious to gasoline? Many thanks. Tom Lange Bar Harbor, Maine |
t lange |
Tom, I used this on the threads and I think on the gasket also. I got the gasket from Moss. It's been on about 1-1/2 years and not a drop of a leak. Mort |
Mort 50TD (1851) Mobius |
A few years back, all of the black rubber gaskets turned to jelly after a bit. I have used the Abingdon Spares greenish cardboard gaskets and Permatex Aviation sealer with no leaks at all. |
George Butz |
Tom-- I personally prefer the rubber type of gaskets in lieu of the cork for the sender. I just seem to have better luck with them. I replaced the sender unit on my last TF and had no problems. In rebuilding my current TF I found the fuel sender to be in horrible condition so I elected to replace it. Lots of fun as it turned out the unit I received was faulty and after adding a few gallons of petrol I had to take it all out again. The sensor unit was replaced and the new one works fine. This time I tested the sensor before installation by connecting the wires and then simply moving the float arm while my wife watched the low fuel light (wires weren't long enough for me to see the light). I didn't think of using a multi-meter which probably would have worked to test the sensor. I replaced the cork gaskets that came with the sensor with rubber gaskets from Moss. I also added a little bit of LocTite (or equivalent) to each screw to help prevent leaks. As of now it seems to be working. Another thing I did was to add a back-up fuel pump, the Facet type from Moss. My SU is on the firewall and I mounted the Facet near the right rear wheelwell. I also added a ball-valve to the fuel line so if I ever need to remove the Facet I can simply shut off the fuel rather than drain the tank. Isn't it fun working with petrol? |
LD Kanaster |
Tom, " peteredney.co.uk " has a modern fuel repellent rubber, twin lipped seal with individual lip seals around the each securing bolt hole. It is also thicker to mold to the shape of the tank sender flange. They also supply a bolt fitting kit with plastic washers. I installed this seal on my TD and it has been perfect. You do not require any sealing compounds with this item. The part number is PT001 Cheers Phil |
Phil Atrill |
Tom, That does look like a perfect part for the unit. I just sent them an e-mail inquiring about the details of the "bolt fitting kit" and its cost. I intend to order a set and keep it in stock just in case!!! Thanks for the tip. Mort |
Mort 50TD (1851) Mobius |
From Peter Edney: Improved sender unit seal PT001 £8.95 Hi, PT001 is a petrol tank sender unit seal. The bolt fitting kit is the 6 bolts and special plastic washers required to secure the sender unit to the tank. The bolt fitting kit is £2.95 Kind Regards Peter Hi Mort No it does not include the sealant. The sealant is excellent but it comes in a normal size tube and ths makes it £15.00 but it will last you a life time and can be used for many uses. Regards Peter |
Mort 50TD (1851) Mobius |
This is the same gasket that Alfa uses ...should be a lot cheaper from USA Alfa suppliers....Also diecuts@aol.com makes a thin rubber gasket that works well...yamabond is a good sealant |
Terry Sanders |
This is probably the same gasket sold by Doug Pelton of fromtheframeup.com as item GA320. I have it on my TC and it works - no leaks. Used a very ligh smear of blue hylomar for the sealant. |
Dave Ahrendt |
Is the sending unit's internal cavity supposed to be dry or wet when in a full tank of "petrol"? I would think dry as I would think gasoline conductive, but I pulled my empty tank off yesterday and when I took off the 4 screws that held the car-forward-facing cover plate on it, liquid poured out of it as I cracked the gasket seal. If it is supposed to be dry, what options for sealing the actuation shaft? Thanks! |
Mike Palatas |
Mike: It is generally full of fuel. In order to cause a fire/explosion you would need oxygen and a lot bigger spark. No worries. |
Christopher Couper |
Hi Tom. I had read a couple years ago about using tank slushing compound as the sealant. I sounds logical to me since it will seal pin holes in the tank. Butch |
R Taras |
I used an Edney supplied rubber gasket and it sealed perfectly first time. Dave H |
Dave Hill |
I make my own gaskets from Viton so no problem with ethanol. Regards Declan |
Declan Burns |
I made a gasket using some cork that had been lying in the garage for years and within days the leak had returned. I then scrounged some gasket material from the shop that reconditioned my cylinder head and no more leaks. I think you must use up to date materials for success with ethanol petrol.
Also the cover AND the terminal screw are prone to leaks. Whilst the unit is off the car it is sensible to check these, especially the terminal. This can be loosened when the wire is removed. I re-tapped the holes in the tank M5 and used socket headed bolts to secure the flange. It is far easier to use an allen key if the sender unit need to be removed again. Cheers Jan T |
J Targosz |
Jan, I hope you got the swarf out of the tank! Regards Declan |
Declan Burns |
Hi Tom,
I use the Peter Edney rubber lip seal on our TFs with no leaks resulting. However,like all gasketing, the surface to which the gasket is applied can be critical. Often the flange of the Sender Unit is distorted by over zealous previous owners putting too much pressure through the setscrews being over tightened. The flange can be bought back to flat form by the use of judicious paneling and mill cut filing. The 'internal cavity' gasket I make out of neoprene impregnated cork. It pays to check this metal panel for truth (flat) as well. Cheers Rob Grantham TF3719("Aramis"),TF9177("Athos"). |
Rob Grantham |
The best that I have found are from Abingdon Spares. I think it's their Part #19-157H. Follow the directions. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Hi Deccan, I have a tin of special grease for use with taps and dies, it helps with cutting the thread but also holds the swarf. I made up a new tank for my MG M Type and to ensure it was leak free gave it a go with slosh tank sealant. I screwed a plug into the outlet to keep the stuff in the tank whilst I gave it a good shake. When the sealant had set the plug was rock solid and the only way to release it was to use heat which melted the solder around the outlet. Cheers Jan |
J Targosz |
I used the AS one about 5 years ago and it seems to hold up well. No noticeable leaks. I have my car in a bubble chamber and when I unzip it I get a slight whiff of gasoline. Could be just venting out the top I guess. No wet spots anywhere. If you hear an explosion one day it could be my TD. :-) |
Christopher Couper |
For Christopher: Not worried about explosions. The "fuel conductive" comment was more about having the thing in permanent "low level", light-on condition with the internal cavity filled with fuel all the time. I tried to get continuity with a multimeter with the negative lead on the body and the positive lead on the terminal, and got no change in resistance reading with any float position. Am I missing something or does it simply mean my sender is toast? |
Mike Palatas |
Mike, It's a simple on/off switch. You can clean the metal and bend the tab to make better contact. If that doesn't work there might be a broken wire - it's a pretty fine gauge. Also be sure the terminal at the top is electrically isolated from the case. If you get a new one don't use the plastic float - they crack. Jim |
J Barry |
I certainly did not re-start this thread, but appreciate the updated info. Tom Lange MGT Repair |
t lange |
This thread was discussed between 22/03/2012 and 12/10/2018
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