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MG TD TF 1500 - fuses
Parts list shows fuses 35 & 50 amp. my TD fitted with 15 & 30 amp. everything works... what am I missing. TD29330 |
M Lees |
20 amps :-) You just might blow a fuse during some heavy operations such as driving with high beams, while using turn signals and applying the brakes. They are set up that way for some extra margin. If it works for you and you have some spares, I would not sweat it. |
Christopher Couper |
Mike, it's a matter of semantics. Hang in there for a bit and I'm sure that one of the folks who has the answer will jump in here. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Is there not a difference in the way the fuses in the UK are rated vs the US? I think one is rated on the current it can carry safely (US) and the other is rated on the current it opens at. So they may be the same. "You say tomaeto. I say tomaato" Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
British Lucas Fuse American BUSS Fuse Fast Blow Dual Rating~ Continuous (AGC) Alternate Opinion (SFE ?) 50 amp 25/50 amp ~ 25 amp 25 amp SFE 35 amp 17/35 amp ~ 17 amp 20 amp SFE 30 amp 15/30 amp ~ 15 amp 15 amp SFE (too short ?) 25 amp 12/25 amp ~ 12 amp 15 amp SFE (too short ?) 20 amp 10/20 amp ~ 10 amp 15 amp 7.5/15 amp ~ 8 amp 10 amp 5 /10 amp ~ 5 amp 5 amp 2.5 / 5 amp ~ _____ 3 amp 2 amp 1 / 2 amp ~ 1 amp Unfortunately, there’s no extra data marked on either the fuse body or on the package to tip-off the user that the ratings are different. It’s very important that USA owners of British cars be aware of the issue and make wise choices when using USA fuses in them. The best choice is to make the effort to source proper British fuses for your LBC. In an emergency, the loose Rule of Thumb is to use a USA BUSS fuse with an Amp rating equal to no more than one half of the British Lucas fuse rating. From somewhere on the internet. George |
George Butz |
Well, the columns got messed up with copy/paste, should be Left- British, left center- continuous/fast blow, next to right- US rating, and then the far right is "optional". |
George Butz |
I'm seriously considering a fuse block under the dash that will allow separation of the individual loads. I've seen a schematic for this somewhere. Not only is this safer than tying everything through two fuses but this way if the wiper wire fries the headlights (etc.) still work and you can get home. The original on the firewall will be left just for show. |
MAndrus |
It's a good idea, Mandrus; along with using relays to take the load off some of the switches. And yes, I think a few people have posted their schematics and photos of their fuse blocks. |
Geoffrey M Baker |
Here is one, fairly detailed, fuse block install. http://tseriesmg.blogspot.com/2006/11/mg-td-auxiliary-fuse-panel.html Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Jim B, that's the one I've seen. BTW, I came to NC from Stirling, NJ near Basking Ridge. What exit are you at? |
MAndrus |
George is mostly correct. The British fuse rating is based on the maximum current the fuse can handle before it blows. The US fuse rating is based on the current it can safely carry under normal situations and will blow at something higher than that. Thus, to be safe, if the British fuse shows 35 Amps as its rating, the equivalent US fuse should be rated at around 17 Amps. Take the British rating and if you need to replace it with a US fuse, it should be roughly half the value. Otherwise you risk letting the smoke escape. |
LD Palmer |
Great feedback,thanks to all |
M Lees |
> >BTW, I came to NC from Stirling, NJ near Basking >Ridge. What exit are you at? > I am in Verona, North Jersey, North of the GSP. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
This thread was discussed between 03/02/2015 and 04/02/2015
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