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MG TD TF 1500 - Gearbox Removal for Overhaul

A few months ago I reported my gearbox locking up by means of the selector forks travelling too far. Which could be resolved by removal of the shift remote and re-alignment of yokes. From all the feed back maybe it was the circ clip on the end of the third/fourth selector, But to find out and resolve the gearbox has to come out. I've had the opportunity to spend the day going over a gearbox and it's replacement with Bud Krueger, I've collected all the anticipated/normal overhaul parts per Bob Gruneau (plus circ clips),Reviewed the thread from last September started by GK Guenter concerning gearbox removal and have reviewed the MG registry video from England. Well spring is coming I'm about to take the leap. You've all suggested to go ahead and remove the gearbox. Any last pointers to ease the process, such as: should I place the car on jack stands, any special tools on hand , tricks or warnings about taking the gearbox out. Any and all suggestions pictures, blessings warnings are welcome as always.
Jon Levine

each time i have taken my gearbox out i have used jackstands. use the "long bolt with head cut-off and screwdriver slot cut in end of bolt to replace top bolts BEFORE sliding trans back" technique. it is pretty straight forward. regards, tom
tom peterson

"use the "long bolt with head cut-off and screwdriver slot cut in end of bolt to replace top bolts BEFORE sliding trans back""

Two manifold studs with screwdriver slots cut in one end work very well for this application. Below is a picture that Dave Braun posted on another thread recently that shows what we are talking about.


David DuBois

Am I correct in assuming that these headless bolts to take the transmission out (back) are the same as the 1x8 manifold studs which have been previously suggested for replacment of the gearbox are one and the same and it's recommended to use them for both removal and replacement
Jon Levine

you are correct, sir. see daves picture in previous post on this thread. regards, tom
tom peterson

It is possible to get the gearvbox out in under an hour.
Remove floor boards, remote change and steering wheel. You'll need a trolley jack to go under the engine. With a long shaft for the sockets it is possible to undo all of the flywheel housing bolts BUT make sure you mark them from where they came. Essential to return them to the same holes - lenghts are different.
Undo rear gerabox mount and slighly lift the engine on the jack and with a bit of prisingand encouragement from a leather hammer the housing will come away from the engine and the gearbox (assuming you have undone the prop shaft) will come free and can be lifted out.

PS Dont forget the earht from enigne to chassis and the clutch rods,undo them!

Bob Marshall

....and the speedo cable...exhaust bracket...
tom peterson

Jon, let me know when you're ready. I'll bring the dummy lay shaft. Bud
Bud Krueger

Remove the throttle pedal from the carb link, and wire it up out of the way.
George Butz

Be careful on reinsertion. The lower bolts are very easy to strip in the soft aluminum. Unfortunately there is no room for a torque wrench. The bolt at the eight o'clock position is almost impossible to torque as a wrench can't swing between the clutch rods and tranny. I had to use the tube socket which came with the car to turn it.
Russ Oakley

This thread was discussed between 01/03/2008 and 03/03/2008

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.