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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Grose jets and more rubbish rubber

I am in the process of re commissioning a 1953 TD and having unblocked the fuel tank filter and sorted the frozen fuel pump I finally got fuel up to the carbs - whereupon the apparently new braided hose between pump and rear carb spurted fuel - yes, another rubbish hose split in several places under the braiding.

Ends pulled out and fitted to a proper piece of 1/4 inch fuel hose I then had one carb overflowing and the other dry - so off with the float chamber lids to find Grose jets are fitted.

I have never liked these - one was stuck open and the other stuck shut - no amount of tapping or blowing freed either - so new original valves & seats ordered to replace them.

Why do people say these valves are superior? They are impossible to clear if they get jammed with debris.
Chris at Octarine Services

I've always heard mixed reports - people either love them or have nothing but problems. On the flip side, I never hear people have such problems with the original setup. The occasional stuck needle but not the chronic problems that some experience with grose jets. I stay clear of them.
Steve S

I've had nothing but good results from Gross Jets. However, I must admit that the ones I've been using are from the original developer, developed just a few miles from here.
Chris, if there's that much crud in the fuel system, how can you possibly not expect the Gross Jets to be affected? Bud
Bud Krueger

I had a sticking gross Jet on the TD at last summers start up. It reminded me that I have had these in the TD for well over 20 years without any issues. A simple spray with carb cleaner cleaned out the jet and they are back working well.

Not saying the originals were not ok, but I have just not had any issues with the Gross Jet and my TD sits for 4 to 5 months each winter.
Bruce Cunha

The "crud" as you put it was nowhere near the carbs - they were dry - this car had sat for a long time, around 15 yrs - hence the recommissioning - my guess is that there is corrosion inside the grose jet which is causing the smaller ball to jam.

Needle valves are now viton tipped and probably more reliable than either the original or the Grose valves.
Chris at Octarine Services

I have only ever used the original type float needles and only had problems when incorrectly set.
The main reason for needle valve jamming is that the limiting tab on the float arm has not been set.
If it lowers too much then there is a side vector which prevents the needle moving, the needle needs to drop only slightly to give a full fuel flow.
Ray TF 2884
Ray Lee

I am one who questions changing from an original part to something, supposedly better. If an original part lasts and works properly for 20 years or more, that's what I put back on a car if obtainable. Not condemning anything, but quite a few of these after market parts are problems waiting to happen, especially since they started coming from china! Seems like MOST of the stuff coming out of china is junk! JMHO. PJ
Paul S Jennings

Could be because even the viton tipped needles stick with the ethanol blended fuels. In addition the needle supplied with the rebuild kits will jamb unless you modify the lever arm. As for the hoses...I agree..I'm working on a 48 TC and I'm really getting tired of having to modify new parts out of the box to make them useable. I know we are lucky to be able to purchase the parts at all but I'd think if someone is going to the trouble to make the parts then it wouldn't be that big of a stretch to make them correctly.
MG LaVerne

viton tip needles were not available when i needed new needles. i went with grosse jets on both my old cars..15 years on one and 11 on the TD, no issues. regards, tom
tm peterson

I have to agree with the Gross Jet install. Fitted these to my car over 30 years back and have never had a problem. I have had plenty of issues with the ruddy petrol here and the Carb hosed rotted out only after 4 years of being in the USA. Sprayed fuel like a sieve, and the tank sender started leaking as well. Things change and some parts will no doubt have to change with them to keep the car running. I must admit I have never found water in the petrol or a lot of crud in the filters. I do believe it is the ethanol that is caused me some issues. The new hoses being sold are supposed to be new fuel proof. Only time will tell.
Rod
R D Jones

Gents,
Two springs ago both Gross Jets were stuck at the time of spring start-up. Considerable time spent with carb and eventually brake cleaner to no avail. Closer examination revealed a green sticky substance hardened on the ball. Same apparent substance in the bottom of float bowls but jelly like in consistence. After a complete disassembly/cleaning and replacement Gross Jets no further difficulty. Stopped using ethanol contaminated fuel. Agree with MG LaVern.

Regards,

Jim Haskins 1953 TD
J. M. Haskins

PJ - not 'MOST'...'ALL' of the stuff and it's not junk it's CRAP! CRAP being an acronym for 'Chinese Reproduced Automotive Part'.
J Ostergren

Sadly Craftsman tools are now being made in China.
Rich (TD 3983) Taylor

I agree with Ray - "The main reason for needle valve jamming is that the limiting tab on the float arm has not been set."

That said, to my knowledge, there is no adjustment procedure in any of the manuals for setting the float levers. There was not even a limiting tab on the early levers. When I first realized what was causing the jamming of the needle valve, one float bowl had slots cut on the lever to form an adjustment tab on, but there were no slots cut on the lever in the other float bowl - I cut my own slots and made the adjustments through trial and error. I have an article that I wrote regarding this adjustment in my Homepage at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/ The title of the article is Float Lever Drop Adjustment and it can be found in the Other Tech Articles section of the Homepage. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Good day all:
Attn: Mr. Rod Jones:

Far from being an M.G. "Guru" I believe I have been getting around the ethanol problem by using Chevron 94 octane as petrol. It is advertised as being ethanol free and while it is rather dear/litre or U.S./Imp. Gallon, I'd rather pay that now, than for the expense of unforeseen other woes. However; I do add a lead substitute with each tank fill.

(Some one also whispered that marine petrol, easily obtainable by me at Halfmoon Bay, B.C., is also sans ethanol. I may investigate that possibility and as the war is long over and rationing agents no longer search for coloured petrol users (spot checking carburetter contents at suspect repair facilities). Well, I hope they don't !).

As for the needle and seat arrangements, my cars have the original type bits, albeit they have been replaced by newer sets. I have had nae problems with bursting lines but presently I have a petrol pump giving me grief. It is leaking and I am trying to eradicate (still at it Mr. DuBois) this problem.

Emdall, TC6768/TD3191, Halfmoon Bay, British Columbia, Canada
kernow

Regarding the fuel hoses: Cut off the ends and take them to your nearest Gates dealer. They will swage on a new hose guaranteed not to leak. Quick (15 minutes) and inexpensive (maybe $15).
Lew Palmer

One of the more interesting things about this web is hearing who has what issues. I replaced my fuel lines many years ago with braided lines and have not had any issues. Could be just the new stuff, or that I am lucky.
Bruce Cunha

Bruce - the older braided hoses had cotton reinforcement in the rubber and generally used galvanised wire braiding - the modern stuff has plain rubber hose without reinforcement and usually stainless steel braiding.

What I have found is that the modern hose cracks and splits on the outside of bends where the rubber is under tension, sometimes it goes completely crazed.

I no longer fit either oil or fuel lines with braiding, I would rather be able to see whether the hose needs replacing BEFORE it leaks oil or fuel!
Chris at Octarine Services

Conoco stations here have no ethanol at the pumps, 10% is available along with the new 90%. Whatever you do, tell the wife and kids not to put the 90% in your car, unless it's designed for it! Some have seen the much lower price and put it in the car to save money and serious problems arose out of it. PJ
Paul S Jennings

"I save money by buying the lower priced ethanol - that is I would if I could just get the same MPG with it as I get with gasoline" Ain't gonna happen.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent

So, in addition to damaging pre-ethanlo hoses, gaskets and stuff, it probably costs you more to go from A to B with it anyway.

Jud
Safety Fast but not an ethanol fan
J K Chapin

From what I understand, ethanol attacks the emulsifiers in the rubber that keel it soft and flexible. As the rubber is attacked, it forms microscopic cracks and fuel starts leeching out. Eventually it becomes a gusher. The hose can look fine but be borderline dangerous, and there lies the real danger.

Try removing your hose and bending it 90-degrees. If you see lots of cracks appear, replace it, as ethanol has done its thing. If you have steel braided hoses, this will not work obviously.
Steve Simmons

This thread was discussed between 04/03/2014 and 06/03/2014

MG TD TF 1500 index

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