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MG TD TF 1500 - Has anyone tried the Pertronix distributor?
My TF distributor needs rebuilding. So I figure it may be more cost effectove to go to the pertronix-made distributor. I already have their points kit and coil, so what if any, is the advantage of their own distributor? I plan to stick with + grnd. Gord Clark Rockburn, Qué. |
Gordon Clark |
No first hand experience Gordon, but I'd suggest a call to Jeff at Advanced Distributors. He will give you the facts, even though I'm sure he'll try and steer you towards a points type. I've had him rebuild all three of my present MG distributors. Running one with a Pertronix module, one with points and one with the Crane electronic unit. |
L E D LaVerne |
Gordon, I would suggest from a cost stand point, your best move would be to send your distributor to Jeff at Advanced Distributors and let him work his magic. He did mine about 4 years ago and it came back looking like new. It has worked beautifully, and I could not be more pleased with the work he did. If you were to price out a new Pertronix, the price would be much higher than Jeffs' rebuild, and I question if the performance would be any better. Besides all the above Gordon, it's nice to give you a comment on your question. George |
George Raham [TD4224] |
when I purchased my 1952 TD the PO said he installd a Pertronix ignitor . I pulled the file and it was for a 12V positive ground system Part Number LU-146P12 LU-146MP12 Positive ground. So far it has fired up and runs great --- no issues. I looked thru the file but did not find receipt for cost only installation instuctions. |
Russ Little |
My TF distributor was feeling a bit sloppy. I called Jeff and as soon as I said "TF" he directed me to check to see if the two piece body was still tight. Well, it was obvious that it had already been repaired once and, if I clamped the base in a soft-jawed vise, I could feel it was loose again. I sent the whole mess to Jeff and he used the gear and nothing else on a late model distributor. He uses the last point type distributor, removes the vacuum advance and covers the hole with a plate of his own manufacture. The point plate gets welded and the advance curve is tailored for your stated use. He supplied it with new everything, including wires for a more than reasonable sum. When I started the engine for the first time the other day I checked the timing and the advance was rock-steady, no jumping around like you see with a worn distributor. If you do go to a point distributor you'll always have the choice of negative or positive ground. I am going negative as I can't see any good reason to retain a positive ground. I'm not concerned with the correct police! |
J E Carroll |
I jumped to a Pertronix with ballast resistor and new coil, to compliment supercharger. I'd like to think it'll run with good spark without feeling guilty the points haven't been cleaned/set in a year or two. Two weak points- One; they may be sensitive to water, as in washing the car. No spark. Really doesn't make sense as it is completely solid state, but it has happened. I went to see a TD for sale that was detailed and wouldn't start. I informed him the Pertronix wasn't putting out a spark. Later on, it fired up. Our's wouldn't start after a thorough washing, but came back to life after sitting with distributor cap off for a while. Maybe water shorted out spark inside or outside of the cap somewhere and had nothing to do with the Pertronix. Anyways, just an observation. Second; It may be sensitive to low voltage. After being stuck on the highway, bumper to bumper one night with lights on, the voltage dropped and engine kept stalling at stop lights (although the new batteries had plenty of cranking power). After sitting for a minute or two, it'd fire up, but stall at the following stop lights. Once we kept running for a while to charge the batteries, we had no problem. I also installed electronic HID "arc" headlamps, and they'll go out if voltage drops around 10V; again, stop and go traffic at night. Points and filament headlamps may be superior after all! |
JIM NORTHRUP SR |
Gordy, et al, Sorry! I now see you're talking about a complete dizzy. I wasn't aware or have forgotten about that. Just ignore me! JIM |
JIM NORTHRUP SR |
Jeff does a great job of rebuilding distributors! He rebuilt the one on the 72 with points, set it up for my style of driving, and it performs flawlessly! I'm for points, they last a long time and don't need setting every time you drive the car as some have stated in the past. The points in the B were installed in 06 and still look like new. If points burn out, the dizzy is bad, or it's an electrical supply problem of sorts. PJ |
Paul sr |
All, Thanks for your input. But apparently nobody has installed the Pertronix distributor and I was hoping to find someone for some feedback. I'm already running a Pertronix solid state ignition and their 40,000 volt coil. However oil is leakimng from the bottom and I suspect the shaft needs re-bushing. I have no problem with Advance doing my distributor but it seems that the cost of rebuilding isn't that far off a new Pertronix unit, and I just thought this might be an opportune time to try one. Gord Clark Rockburn, Qué. |
Gordon Clark |
Be the guinea pig and let us know how it works out. |
Gene Gillam |
That's why I would call Jeff. I believe he has seen most of the new distributors that are out on the market. He might have some insight as to the quality of this unit. |
L E D LaVerne |
I recently added a Pertronix Ignitor to my 1950 MG TD which was positive ground. My MG had the original distributor plate which had the condensor built onto the plate by the plate overlaping the condensor and pressuring it in place. I broke off the condensor and holding plate in one piece and filed it absolute flat in the area of the break. Then I screwed in the Pertronix Ignitor and found that the rotor touched the sensing plate of the Ignitor with each rotation. I filed off the base of the rotor until it no longer touched. It runs beautifully. It did not need re-timing. The Pertronix Ignitor that I received from Moss Motors evidently was a newer variety as it did not matter whether I had an asymmetric or symmetric cam. The ignitor would work with either. Also it did not come with or need the little slip-over collar for the rotor as the older varieties needed. Except for having to break off the condenser which some plates do not require as the condensor will unscrew and having to file off the plastic base of the rotor a bit it was very easy. I am happy. Andy Cottingham San Antonio, TX |
AJC Cottingham |
Thanks for the info, Andy. We've been wondering about the new units. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
This thread was discussed between 31/03/2013 and 19/04/2013
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