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MG TD TF 1500 - Headlight wiring too long

I'm installing a new harness in my TD and the wires for the headlights and markers seem to be about 8"-12" too long. Should I trim them or leave a loop somewhere? I bought a bunch of the solder on connectors so shortening shouldn't be too difficult.

Thanks in advance,

Kurt
KDB Byrnes

Kurt - If you have the solder on connectors and can make a good solder joint, then shorten the leads (leave some service length in them). Where high current is a factor, the shorter the better. While you are at it, run a separate ground wire in the harness to both the headlights and the side lights, factory original harnesses do not have a ground wire and depend on all the various mechanical joints from the headlight buckets, through the bracket, the fender and finally to the frame. All sorts of places for a high resistance to develop and cause the headlights to become dim. Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Kurt
If you are not a purist I suggest fitting relays in the headlight circuits while you are at it. (2 each side-1 for high beam 1 for low beam with a power wire from starter switch.)
John
John James

Kurt

If you have a braided loom use a small piece of heat shrink sleeving to stop the braid unwinding. Its available from Maplin in th UK. If you can't find a stockist you can use PVA wood glue - it will stop the unwinding but won't seal the end off properly.


Jan T
J Targosz

Maybe you got the wires for the four door model.
A.L. Gerstle

Mine was a little different "delema".
Harness under my wings had been painted (all wires same coloure) as well as cut & spliced (using multi-colored "napa" butt connections "crimped" in place useing ...perhaps a rock!) ...very ugly, and not very "period" looking! I cut back into the main harness (still in good shape) and made all "lucas bullet" type solider connections under the bonnet and inside the rear corners of my boot area.
this keeps the connections somewhat "out of the weather". From there I used Alpha "nylon wire loom" (very period and neat looking) up to the lights. Some big advantages here : I installed extra fusing to the lamp circuits (hidden under dash). I now have "centralized disconnect" to remove wings and/or trouble shoot a short from. Looking under the wings the wiring is very neat & (allthough not "correct" by concourse standards) it looks very "period". Contact me with email address off line if you would like to see what this looks like I can send some pics.
I have had good reception form those that have seen it.
Cheers,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
David Sheward

This thread was discussed between 18/02/2005 and 22/02/2005

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