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MG TD TF 1500 - Hello fromTD4834
|I found this site several months ago and have followed it with great interest. My father was the original owner of a 52 TD and actively did road rally and gymkhana with it through SCCA in Sacramento CA back in the day. I have been fascinated buy the T's since I was a child but never got to experience them firsthand.|
Well, I went the vintage races out at Sears Point several months ago and met some nice MG racers. Lawrie Alexander was one of them and he allowed me to pick his brain for awhile. I told him I was looking for A TD project to build and he told me about a car in pieces nearby that was just the ticket. Well I came home with this car yesterday and would like to find some info on it if I can.
It is said to be a 51. from The California license plates it looks like it was last registered in 1965. The PO bought the car in the San Francisco Bay Area as a basket case in 1979 and it has laid up ever since.
There is Zero rust on the car with no repairs. Wood for the most part is solid and intact. With the exception of the heavy plywood sub dash panel. Sorry don't know what to call it. Does someone readily produce this piece? Car speedometer is in MPH, it has the tach/clock and amp and oil/temp gauges. original red dash is in very good cond. Car has had several repaints in its history Originally cream -> yellow -> black. My dad's car was SSG with red interior and I would like to go with that combination. Question: is this car a early or late 51 production? could it have had SSG color coming out of the factory or is the serial too low denoting a early unit. I read that the SSG was a late 51 and on color that replaced the blue.
Still sorting through boxes of parts. But only items missing are the front and rear bumper faces and over riders, the guts to the headlights ie lenses etc, and broken taillight lenses.
I'll stop for now. Anyone's input would be greatly appreciated. as I further go through this archeology.
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
|Welcome aboard and good luck. Lots of folks here to answer your questions.|
You might start here first:
|Bill, Here's some info on your car. PJ|
Original engine no. XPAG/TD/LHX4593
Build date 07-Dec-1950
Notes TD4834 EXLU
Note, You should register your car with the MGT register so everyone knows it still exists. PJ
|Paul S Jennings|
|Bill - Go to the MG Car Club T Register at http://www.tregister.org/ Click on Production Records and enter the car number without the slash. You will find the build date of the car there. Cheers - Dave|
|D W DuBois|
Your TD is 695 newer than mine (4139)and about 37 days built after mine (1 Nov 1950). My car is also out of the bay area and was titled in CA in 1951. Could have come over on the same boat.
Were in CA are you? I am moving back to the foothills above Sacramento and should have my TD out there the end of October.
Only item on your list that does not fit your car number would be the temp/oil gauge. That did not come out until TD 13914, Keep an eye in your parts as it is possible the PO swapped this out to have the temperature gauge.
Even if you do find the original, having the temp gauge is probably worth not changing it back to the original.
Are the speedo and tack flat faced or dished.
As for the underdash cover. Not available that I know of, but i do have an original that I have made plans off of. Not sure if I have a set of plans left but I can check this weekend. If I don't, I would be happy to get together with you once I get all my stuff out to CA and you can make a copy of the original one I have.
|Thanks Christopher, I believe that site is where I came up with the color combinations|
Thanks Paul for the production info and to D W, I have entered my info to the registry
After 2 days I am still inventorying and photographing the parts
I have two transmissions that are complete but one has the tailhousing broke out at the clevis boss for the rear mount. Would like to find a good housing to replace it build up both transmissions and either sell one off or save for a spare. Also have 2 extra clusters, collars, forks, and sliders and one reverse gear all with very nice dogs. A lot of misc spares.
New wiring harness, fuel pumps, rubber set, door hinges, a very straight radiator core, and so on.
Things that are known to be missing are the headlight lens/refractors and retainers, tail light assemblies, parking light assemblies, front and rear bumper chrome
All the sheet metal is rust free straight with no more than an hours time to tink out a small crease on a wing and most of the wood is solid except floor panels and over the rear end. but these are sound enough to use as patterns. The one wood item that is bad is the heavy plywood sub dash panel as it is broke through the center with pieces missing
I want to upgrade to an 8" flywheel and clutch setup. Find a tail housing. Also, Does anybody have any used speed equipment for sale , cams rollers high comp pistons modified heads headers etc? My plan is to build a sport special to run on the street and road race occasionally
Is all the TD seat upholstery supposed to be pleated.? My seats are smooth. Don't know if its original, It certainly has patina...
Thanks for reading this long winded messg and your responses in advance...
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
Len Fanelli is the guy to talk to about cams, roller rockers and lifters
|All seats were pleated.|
CAN YOU POST SOME PICTURES OF THE CAR??
| Thanks Steve for the info re roller valve train assemblies assemblies |
I reside in Sacramento and picked up the car outside of Jackson CA where it sat for the last 35 yrs untouched.
I'm not sure what you are referring to re the tach and speedo. Both have dished lenses they have either been restored or are NOS/ Repro as the odometer shows one tenth of a mile. I can send pics of the gauges if that's is not what you are asking.
Lawrie Alexander lives just up the hill from me about 30 mins on Hwy 50. Hope to run up to his place and pick his Brain some more.
I do know I have a serious differential problem. I can take the pinion and walk it in and out a good 1/4" plus and the backlash is horrendous.
I hope to start dis-assembling the suspension in the next few days. and drag most everything to the stripper and powder coat people. Contemplating even having the body panels powdered as well then scuff them down to put a topcoat on them if I cant come up with a color choice
Look forward to meeting you when you get out this way. I think there is a local club out here but haven't found it.
Does any body produce a kit of all the nuts, bolts, screws etc to aid in the restorations of these cars or do I have to send of my old hardware to be replated? I know some was chromed but what other finishes were there. I have a tote bin full of hardware that was said to come off the car. A lot of the nuts and lock washers appeared to have a black oxide type of finish to them. I would rather just buy new hardware than deal with the time consuming task of restoring old hardware if I can get the correct markings etc. This isn/t going to be concourse but since it is apart why not put it back together as correct as possible the first time around. Of course nothing is identified. One of the reasons I hate basket cases as I don't get to see and photograph the car as it comes apart.to know how Humpty Dumpty gets put back together again. LOL.
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
You have one of the better experts on originality of the TD posting on this thread. Chris Couper's web page he posted above has a ton of information on originality, include a lot on nuts & bolts. Oh and Chris is also just up the road from you also.
The Speedo and Tach on the 1950 should be totally flat (the plate that the numbers are on).
As for the Differential. As it sounds like it has to be rebuilt, put either the Moss 4:55 kit or if you can find an MGA ring/pinion. These will drop the RPM down and that is a bit safer for freeway/highway driving. Others may disagree, but TD blocks are getting hard to come by so keeping the RPM's down a bit is not a bad thing. Unfortunately, due to a rod bolt failure, My TD no longer has the original engine.
Interesting you found the car in Jackson. I left there 25 years ago. Used to drive my TD all around and was in most of the parades in Jackson. No one ever mentioned another one in the area.
Seats were pleated, but I have seen TD's with smooth seats. I think there may have been seat kits sold in the 60's that had a smooth seat.
Sacramento MG Car Club is one I know of. Chris may have some other suggestions on that. I believe Lawrie belongs to that one. My 67 BGT came out of that Club.
It sounds a bit odd, but I have found one of the best references for figuring out how things go together in the TD is a Moss motors TD catalogue. I am a visual person and the expanded pictures in Moss helped me out a lot.
I am looking forward to seeing your project. Should be in Placerville around August 8th.
|Steve I will post pics as soon as I get them off my phone In going through the bins of hardware that was semi sorted out from the cars dismantlement I noticed quite a few makers marks on the bolts. wondering if I ever could figure out what went where. Went to the site posted above and found exactly want I needed at mg-cars.org thank you who ever put that information together. now I can put things back where they belong. Is there a source foe the correct hardware nuts screws washers that I can go to. does anyone make a kit of all the hardware necessary to put the car back together or do I resort to taking the all the pieces to a plate shop be cad, black oxide and blued? C hris , maybe you have a recommendation since your supposed to be in my neck of the woods |
The tach and speedo number faces are flat.
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
|Engine was supposedly rebuilt but was never completely assembled. It will be coming back apart to check condition, add ARP head studs, main studs and con rod bolts. H@ SU's are bolted up but not really assembled, stov ebolts were sitting on the spark plug holes rather than plugs so who knows what I'll bfind after thirty five yrs of layup
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
One item you may want to consider prior to reassembly. Have the frame checked. Best time to straighten anything is when the car is apart.
Engine looks correct.
May also want to consider sending you distributor off to Advanced Distributors in Minnesota. Jeff is one of the best at setting up a TD distributor. http://advanceddistributors.com/index.htm
Dave Braun posts on this web and owns a TD. He does a really great job of carburetor rebuilding. http://www.dbraun99.com/
|Bill: Sherms in Sacto is the most expensive and slowest chrome plater in the world, but you probably get what you pay for. I would not go anywhere else.|
Just be prepared for a long wait (several months) and a bill that's two or three times what you expect it to be.
|Thanks Christopher The chrome shops are drying up with all the EPA regs and few good ones left at that. I have a few items to be rechromed but more interested in the hardware restoration. Does sherm do cad, bluing and black oxide treating also? I know the last few plate jobs I had done bumpers on a 1962 Belair 409 the plating peeled right after installation and I restore vintage Salsbury motor scooters and had chrome done on new seat leaf springs and they buffed through the layers of chrome. Attn to detail seems to be lacking. |
Different shops involved. The latter was in Lodi. I"m guessing there isn't any venders that put together a package of the correct washers. nuts or bolts since no one has responded to that question?
|W. A. Chasser Jr|
|Sherms does not do anything but chrome. I had some items done in a mat chrome which looks a lot like CAD but is priced like chrome :-)|
Abingdon Spare and MOss do have some packages of bolts etc but they generally won't be plated. I would look for someone who claims to do yellow of white zync. CAD is only for expensive aircraft parts nowadays it seems and good luck finding a place in CA.
Look on another thread about the exhaust manifold for a powercoating place over off of power inn road.
I think it was American Stripping.
|If you don't mind the work, the Eastwood plating kit does a good job.|
I used this to plate all the bolts, nuts, washers on my MGB Gt. You have to clean the parts very well, but the plating has held up for 8 years and then are still holding up well.
This thread was discussed between 08/07/2014 and 14/07/2014
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