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MG TD TF 1500 - Horn restoration
Hello fellows: Although the repainting of the underbonnet horns at first glance looks easy, I see they are attached to the wiring harness. Since I cannot seem to get the outer shell off easily, are the connections able to be detached if the shell is removed? Is there a way to get the outer shell off without damaging it? The horns work great but don't look great! Thanks for any advice! Rich in St.Pete |
Richard Olson |
If you're talking about a TD - removing the screw from the center of the cover will allow it to be removed. The wires can then be pulled out of the internal connector block. Perhaps TFs are different. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
Hi Rich. I tried to send a PM but it was rejected. As bud noted the screw on the top of the dome holds it together. Pix attached shows one dome stripped and wire brushed prior to painting, the other just stripped. Next post will show inside. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Here is a pix looking into the horn so you can see where the wiring goes. I started a how-to on refurbishing them but I did not finish. I do have the taking it apart, part done. If you want it send me a PM at eeengineer-at-verizon-dot-net Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
There is a whole set of horns pictures on my website, in the TD Restoration section, electrical, horns. www.dbraun99.com |
Dave Braun |
I have not gotten around to refurbishing my horns yet. I do have a question though; I've noticed that the horns are mounted on pretty thin metal, and vibrate a lot. Is this a problem I should address with new mounts? |
Geoffrey M Baker |
The mounts are designed to Acoustically isolate the horn from the body, thus increasing the intensity of the sound. Yes they are fragile. Several of the leaves on mine were cracked. I replaced them with ones from a junk horn. The leaves are spring steel. I would not change the mounting. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
Is it critical how the leads are connected? In other words; is there a live connection and an earth connection, and if so, which is which? |
Willem van der Veer |
The horns are NOT polarity sensitive. Either way around works fine. This assumes there is no internal short, however. |
Lew Palmer |
Removing the horn always works best when nuts do not fall off the last bolt holding the horn into place, then hearing the sound of it falling onto the fender where it abuts the frame rail, and after searching and searching for cubbies it may have run into, and obviously the garage floor, it has decided it wants to play hide and seek...where do they go? Rich |
Richard Olson |
Posted 30 May 2014 at 14:12:59 UK time Geoffrey M Baker, Arizona, USA I have not gotten around to refurbishing my horns yet. I do have a question though; I've noticed that the horns are mounted on pretty thin metal, and vibrate a lot. Is this a problem I should address with new mounts? Geoffrey, There are solid backing plates which mount on the inside of the scuttle to reinforce the metal. See the picture from my website. I assembled my scuttle on the bench. But the picture is basically right side up. Warmly, Dave |
Dave Braun |
I just picked up Horns from Moss Motors and it comes with black and red leads. My question is, can I get rid of those leads and use the color coded wiring harness straight into the horn? |
CJ Henderson |
Richard, A few years back I dissassembled my horns and was able to get them working again. Of course I've never heard what the originals sound like so I'm not sure they are working just right but at least they make a sound. I hope theses next few pictures may be of some help. I have a good many more pictures of the process. If you need any more, just let me know and I will send them to you. patrick dot earles at comcast dot net. The last two pictures prove that almost anything can be brought back from the rust pile. Enjoy, Patrick 1 of 6 Horn mounting bracket |
Patrick Earles |
2 of 6 Horn with horn old bracket attached |
Patrick Earles |
3 of 6 High note horn with cover off and horn bracket off |
Patrick Earles |
4 of 6 Horns restored repainted and new mounting brackets |
Patrick Earles |
5 of 6 Low note horn innerds before |
Patrick Earles |
6 of 6 Low note horn innerds cleaned and working Yours can't be much worse than these were. They can be reclaimed from the rust. Patrick |
Patrick Earles |
RICH, The nuts that fall off go the the same place that the second sock of a pair go when you put them in the drier!!!! never to be seen again! Steve |
SPW Wincze |
Hi Richard, Can I suggest you enter 'horns' into the Archive tab and look at a NOV 2010 thread titled 'Horn Adjusting Wrenches', which explains how to adjust using the two large nuts under the coil windings. You will note an entry from yours truly, suggesting you dismantle the horn first, and use convential spanners first to loosen the two nuts, clean and de-rust etc. The 'special' spanners can be made up quite easily from 1/8" mild steel, using an angle grinder, since once reassembled, the adjustment nuts will move easily and a two peg spanner is quite alright. You won't be using them again for a while, for once adjusted with the nuts, future cleaning and adjustment is limited to the points area! For the sake of your household's peace and any neighbours, I would suggest you adjust by using the leads from a battery charger. If it makes a good sound, with the right ampage, (as set out in the linked article}, it will only improve with the full 12v ampage from the car battery. Hope this helps, Cheers, John |
J C Mitchell |
Thanks for the info, Dave Braun! I guess I'll start looking for a set of used spring leaf mounts. Anybody got any? |
Geoffrey M Baker |
This thread was discussed between 30/05/2014 and 05/06/2014
MG TD TF 1500 index
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.