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MG TD TF 1500 - How do I pull an engine that has a Skyhook tranny

I have everything I can see loosened and the entire engine/tranny being held up by block and tackle but it won't move forward and disengage from the rear mount and drive shaft. I should have kept the install instructions I guess but I turned them over to the garage that did it.
John Redman

In pulling my engine I went to remove the engine stabilizer and found that the people that did the work on putting in my front disk brakes and rebuilt front shock (right side) did not bother to fasten the rear inboard bolt for the shock which also engages the engine stabilizer. It looks to me like the front wing has to come off to accomplish that. Any thoughts on this?
John Redman

John
I have not tried to remove the engine and transmission from my TD with the Skyhook but looking at the installation I see the problem. You need to jack the transmission high enough so the mount clears the cross member but I suspect you will hit the toeboard/firewall before you clear the cross member. I would pull the engine and transmission separately. The original installation instructions installed the transmission with the engine in place.

Jan
Janson Hurd

Ahhhh, I just might have to remove the carpet and tranny cover, too. Thanks.
John Redman

John I can send you a copy of the instructions if you like.
L E D LaVerne

Oh, yes, I would like the instructions. I just jacked the tranny as high as it would go - I cannot unbolt the driveshaft universal, as it is unitary, and it would not go high enough because of the driveshaft hitting the tunnel.

I would like to know what the other external switch, the upper one, is for on the 210 tranny. The lower one is supposedly the reverse switch, right? With the cover off, I CAN access the other tranny bolts, so, separate IS possible. The reason for removing both is that the tranny never got painted and I have all this Dark Canyon paint .... .
John Redman

Hardly seems worth it; I would paint what you can reach and see, and leave the rest.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

John -
Drop the transmission back on the mount and unbolt the driveshaft flange at the rear axle and the driveshaft will pull back. It has a spline in the transmission.
To remove the transmission, unbolt the bellhousing from the engine and pull it into the cockpit. That is the way the instructions will tell you to install the transmission. It is not too heavy as it has a aluminum case.

Jan
Janson Hurd

MY driveshaft supplied by Skyhook does NOT have a bolt-on flange at either end. It has to slip in/out at both ends.

Yeah, I'm gonna unbolt. Any answer about the 'other' externally mounted 2-lead electrical switch? Also, that small 90 degree-angled pipe coming out of the top of the tranny, is it supposed to be connected in some way?
John Redman

Ahhhh, I was putting my eyes in the wrong place. Of COURSE the driveshaft unbolts at the rear end. OK, I did that. Now to get the tranny to separate from the block. I see at least one pin besides the shaft to disengage.
John Redman

John -
I believe the pin you mention is a locating pin only and remains in the engine. If you have the two special pins that Steve Neal supplied with the kit (threaded 8 x 1 on one end and about 3 in long no head)remove the bolts at 10 and 2 o'clock and screw in the pins. The purpose is to support the transmission so no load on the input shaft as you move the transmission back. If you do not have the pins, be prepared to support the weight of the transmission as you move it back. I do not remember the function of the switches as it was 10 years ago I installed the transmission but I know I did not use them.

Jan
Janson Hurd

The switch on the Trany may be the revers light S/W If you use one to the rear. You can ohm it out - Should only be closed when in reverse if that is correct. I don't use it on mine.

Rod
R D Jones

There are TWO switches on the right side of the tranny, one high and the other about mid point such that the floorboard had to be cut away to accommodate it. This was connected to the back-up light. Just was wondering what the upper one is for.

I DON'T still have the locating pins Steve supplied. But I'm already supporting the tranny forward and back, forward with a jack and rear with the support.
John Redman

Just a guess John, but I'm thinking the other was probably a neutral only safety start switch.
L E D LaVerne

Back to the process: In the meantime, I have removed the engine separate from the tranny and hoisted it to the work area. I removed the tranny and degreased it, scrubbed it and painted it. Looks gorgeous. I'm now into my 4th can of Dark Canyon Red. STILL dealing with the gas tank but was told yesterday that the radiator shop won't get to it for another 2 weeks. That gives me more time. He (radiator guy) wants to re-core it because it "looks clogged". I thought that radiator shops could deal with that and only go to the re-core when it leaks. Yes?

So, due to the fact that I'm working alone on this, I'm rather dreading putting the engine and tranny back in separately. I have a load balancer which is almost like having help. I'm a good week away from finishing building the engine plus not knowing what else I'll need from Moss.

Monsieur LaVerne, weren't you going to send me those instructions? I can certainly use them. Thanks.
John Redman

John,

The usual process is to first "boil" the radiator in a solution to clean out the tubes. If the radiator is really clogged, which was the case with mine, you need to have a recore.
Charles Duffy

Sorry John, I've had a couple of tuff days here at home. I'll try and get it copied for Monday and get it sent your way. I'll need your address.
L E D LaVerne

MY REAL address (I have tried multiple times to change/update the one showing) is 1 North Main Street, Antrim (NOT N. Ireland), NH 03440. Again thanks. I'll check out the neutral start possibility.
John Redman

Can anyone tell me the size of the crankshaft bolt? I have a 1 1/8 on it but it feels a little loose and 1" won't go on. Thanks.
John Redman

L E D,
To assist, I sent John a copy of my Skyhook instructions - It should saves you form having to do it.
Regards
Rod
R D Jones

John,

If you're talking about the dognut it's 5/8"WW.

Gene
Gene Gillam

John,
FWIW While you have the radiator out I would consider changing the core. I don't know about your experience with high engine temperatures but my engine always ran HOT. Probably because of my supercharger. I had my core changed from the standard 2 core to a 4 core. I can not say enough good things about this conversion.

On a warm summer day, whether cruising on the hwy or idling in traffic, I would see temperatures of 100-110 C. With the 4 core no matter what I do on the hottest day, I can't get it up to 90 C.

Also if you need a copy of the Skyhook Inst. let me know. I can scan them and email the file to you or copy and mail.
Mort
Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius)

Gene, Dognut? No, the one holding the crankshaft pulley on, the manual start attachment. What does "WW" stand for?
Mort, It looks like I'm going the 4-core route whenever the shop has the time to work on it (2 MORE weeks). An eMailed copy would be helpful in the meantime, yes
R.D, Thanks, too, for the hard copy.

The radiator man just called to tell me that the max he can put in there is a 3-core. He gets his cores from someplace in Maine. I need to reach someone that knows about the 4 core source.
John Redman

John, here's a case where 'dogging' is used in the MG world. The nut that holds the pulley onto the end of the crankshaft has a siral-cut groove in it to mate with the pin on the end of the handcrank. This assures that it can only be rotated in a clockwise direction, sort of like dogging down a hatch. The WW indicates that it's a WhitWorth wrench. Bud
Bud Krueger

John - yes, dogbut, holding the crank pulley on, is 5/16 Whitworth. WW=Whitworth.

Tom Lange
MGT Repair
t lange

John,
Here is where the radiator shop has to get a little creative. On the front side of the radiator there is a small lip/flange that restricts the core in the forward position. If memory serves me it was on both sides but not the top and bottom. The 4 core is about 1/4 to 3/8" thicker than the standard 2 or 3 core. This dimension can only come out of the front in order to keep all the structural pieces in line. My radiator shop simply bent that lip/flange flat, inserted the 4 core and soldered everything in place.
You should discuss this with them. It was simple and effective and very much worth the effort. His source is probably just giving him info. based on the actual size of your old core.

It seems that you already have a copy of the Skyhook instructions. If you still need a digital copy I will have to scan my paper copy into the computer and then e-mail it to you. Let me know.
Mort

Mort Resnicoff (50 TD-Mobius)

I will guess that the skyhook instructions are in the mail.

It seems my dognut is in the range of 1 1/8" or very slightly smaller as the socket fits loosely (and 1" does not fit at all). I am hoping that it is lefty-loosey/righty-tighty but, so far, it has killed my electric impact wrench turning it to the left.

I will read these instructions to Dave, the radiator man.
John Redman

Thanks Rod..just got home
L E D LaVerne

John,

1-1/8" will be a bit loose - it's probably closer to 1-1/16" but the 5/8" Whitworth fits perfectly if you can find one.

And yes, it's lefty loosey.
Gene Gillam

I have no hope of "finding" a 5/8 WW before I remove the pulley, etc, so, the 1 1/8" will have to do. 1 1/16" does sound like the ticket. I just don't have one. Today I carried the tranny upstairs in the barn to the 'work area'. Easy peasy. Then I carried the 1500 block up the 15' stairs. LESS easy peasy. I coulda removed the starter motor but at least I removed the head. I only have one engine stand and IT is a POS from Harbor Freight. Oh, well. We have what we have. I DO have a new crankshaft bolt on the way via eBay in case I mess this one up. I notice (very pleased) that the "old" rods and crank show evidence (grinding) of having been balanced (to what stage, I have no idea). It means that I will use the "old" rods instead of my "new" ones. I also dug out my 3 heavy MG manuals, the Practical M.G. TD, the MG midget Workshop Manual and The T Type Restoration Handbook AND I have the CD of The Sacred Octagon. With that, and you, I'll get through this. What I like from the cover of The T Type book is the enamel emblem that says "TF"-1500. If I can commission a similar "TD"-1500 emblem, I'll pay $200. Maybe more.
John Redman

John, let the starter motor provide the oomph. Put the gearbox in neutral, ignition OFF. Put a 1/2" drive socket onto the dognut using a breaker bar. Manually turn the bar clockwise until it comes in contact with the frame. Get your hands, etc., out of the way and bump the starter. Just like that the dognut will be loose.
Bud
Bud Krueger

Dear Bud,
That would be nice if I had not already pulled the engine. It is in partial dis-assembly and the next thing is the dognut.
John Redman

John, if you'd like, I'd be happy to send a 1/2" drive 5/8W socket to you to handle that bugger. Bud
Bud Krueger

Dear Bud, I would 1 N. Main St., Antrim, NH 03440 Thanks. John
John Redman

Will be on its way in the morning. Bud
Bud Krueger

I've often found that an air powered impact wrench gently unscrewed stuck nuts.
Jud
J K Chapin

John, the USPS has lost track of the package. Any chance that it was delivered today? Bud
Bud Krueger

John, please let me know if the socket arrived. Either by email as above, or 508-746-6735. Bud
Bud Krueger

Dear Bud, My least favorite "hobby" is juggling chain saws and running at that. Yes it arrived and yes it wooshed that doggy right off, today as a matter of fact. Had a dickens getting the pulley off since it is a double (for possible SC). Now my obstacle is the camshaft timing gear. I don't have a puller that large and I can't get behind it the way I did with the pulley. The workshop manuals are no help at all. Is a larger gear puller the right tool for this?
John Redman

This thread was discussed between 17/08/2013 and 02/09/2013

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