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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG TD TF 1500 - Ignition Condenser

How do I remove the condenser from the distributor plate? It appears to be pressed in place.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

Moss shows only P/N 163-900 for the condenser, and references distributor numbers 40367 and 40368. My distributor is marked 40162A. Is this condenser correct for my distributor? The sketch on page 42 appears to show the same configuration as my equipment.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

All I've seen, had, are soldered in, after being clamped down. I recently removed one and replaced it with one I got from the local auto parts store that had a lead with spade terminal on it. I did re-tack the solder.
YMMV,
Al,
54 TF "Emma"
A W Parker

Al, were you able to confirm that the replacement condenser has the correct capacitance (0.2 microfarads)?
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169


Corey all condensers have the same .02-.024 or so m/f, use any that you can find.
Len Fanelli

Thx gents.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

To use the replacement later condenser, just drill and thread a tiny hole in the breaker plate and screw it down, or use a small nut/washer. Much easier to change in the future. Moss also has an entire plate assembly with points, replaceable condenser and all the fittings. George
George Butz

Corey,
I did check the capacitance of several capacitors, incl. the old one and the new one, they were all in the same range, as Len has said. I do radio repair and have the test eqpt.
Al
A W Parker

What is "YMMV"

Jud the non-texter
J K Chapin

Your Mileage May Vary. Bud
Bud Krueger

Cory - The first question that comes to mind is, why do you want to replace your condenser? If the car has been running fine - leave the old condenser in the distributor. The most likely time for a condenser to fail is very shortly after it has been installed, therefore if the ignition has been working and you are just replacing points, leave the existing condenser in place. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Corey,

The original condenser was soldered in place, you can remove it by heating it and pumping the old solder, it should just then slide out.

You can buy the original type from here:
http://www.vintagemotorspares.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/hodge?opendocument&part=2


Item 141.
Lucas number 400308

All you need to do then is resolder the new part in place, I have done this several time with no problems.

I think that it is a lot less trouble than drilling and tapping the base plate to take the later style condenser.

John


J Scragg

CORY,
The next time you need to find out what one of those letter thingies means,,, try
http://www.netlingo.com/


SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Dave, the engine ran well, but the condenser appears to be the original sixty-two year-old part. It's probably deteritorated, and I think it's best to replace it with a new part.

George, I had the same thought. Remove the old one, and replace with a screw-retained replacement. This also avoids the risk of damaging the new condenser while attempting to solder it in place.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

"Dave, the engine ran well, but the condenser appears to be the original sixty-two year-old part."
It probably is 62 years old, the one in out TD is all of that - all the more reason to leave it in place. Capacitors/condensers don't wear out and seldom deteriorate - something I learned over 40+ years of working in electronics. Go ahead and replace it if it will make you feel better, but don't be surprised if the new one fails right out of the gate. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

From all my training and experience, the capacitors like these do deteriorate with time and use. They are electrolitics and the medium inside does break down. And oddly enough, measuring capacitance while correct, is not always an indicator that it still is good. Found that out the hard way once on my old Ford Van.

For me, I would leave it until I suspect there might be a problem related to the condensor then replace. I've always subscribed to the

AINT BROKE, DON'T FIX theory.
L Rutt

Dave, that sounds like the voice of experience! OK, it stays.


Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

These automotive capacitors are not electrolytic. If they were, you'd have almost instant smoke if you changed from positive to negative ground and turned the ignition on. Electrolytics are almost always of higher capacitance, greater than 1.0 mfd, these are in the 0.02 mfd neighborhood. They probably use paper for the dielectric. They appear to be well sealed, so deteriorization is minimized.
Al
A W Parker

corey, if you have a few hundred miles on the points,how do your points look? if the points look good..as in not burned or pitted, i agree with david. too many stories in too many car restoration magazines about capacitors failing right out of the box.

regards, tom
tom peterson

Points are as I bought the car last year, and appear to have a lot of miles on them. They look well worn, but there is no burning or pitting. I'll leave the condenser in service.
Corey Pedersen 1951 TD #7169

My 2 cents:
Set up another points plate with new points & condenser and store in car as a spare.
I run a pertronix, but carry this in my car.
There is no doubt in my mind that if I take it "out" of the car I will need it!
Cheers,
David, "Friend of Murphy"
David Sheward

David S has theanswer. I do the same as he does, carry a spare plate with preset points and condenser on it in case the pertronix dies (never trust anything electronic). Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

I never could figure out why we have in the past always were told when replacing points, replace the condenser. Ever since I was a kid, pop would say, the points are burnt out so I'll get a set of points and condenser for it. Lets go to Pep Boys! Seems like they were synonymous, they were a pair, you couldn't replace one without the other. I agree that condensers rarely go bad. I had a voltage problem on my old 1955 Ford tractor when I bought it and kept burning up the points. I installed three sets of points before I realized the problem, installed a resister to the coil and problem went away. I never changed the condenser. that was 5 years ago and it still has the same points and original condenser. I was trained as a kid, Pop did it, so I guess it was correct! (Grin). PJ

Resister like this.



Paul sr

Paul,
I guess I need a bit more info,,, where does this resistor go??????? What does it do?????

SPW
STEVE WINCZE

Steve The resistor goes in the white lead to the coil. But be sure that the coil you are using needs one.

On modern cars (compared to little beauties) the starter solenoid shorts the resistor out so that you get a nice hot spark while the battery is loaded (9 - 10 volts) with the starter.

Our LBC's don't have a solenoid for the starter so you can't have this feature without modifications and the originality police will get you.
Safety Fast
Bob
Bob Jeffers

Steve,
Ballest Resister only needed for "some coils".
There was one on my TF when purchased because the coil installed was incorrect ohmage.
Removed it when replaced with correct coil.
This shows "where" it would go in circuit if required.


David Sheward

OBTW's:
Illastration above for "neg ground".
If you run a Pertronix and carry spare set of pre-set points....make sure you have propper spanner with you for your dizzy adjust. Timming will change when you swap it out!
David Sheward

This thread was discussed between 15/04/2013 and 17/04/2013

MG TD TF 1500 index

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