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MG TD TF 1500 - Ignition switch?
While sittng at idle, my 1952 TD simply stopped running. A quick check showed that the battery was OK, but there was no power to any other part of the car except the starter. My suspicion is that the ignition switch may have given up and died. Am I on the right track, or is there another form of Lucas ghost I need to exorcise? |
Ken Martin |
Ken - The ignition switch would be the place to start, although the headlight don't go through the ignition switch, so if they are dead also, then I would start by looking at the terminal on the starter switch where the battery is hooked to and make sure that the brown wire coming off at that point is doing it's job. If you find that eh ignition switch is indeed the culprit, I would suggest sending it to Craig Seabrook at the Whitworth Shop for repair. Craig's e-mail is seabrook@en.com Good luck - Dave |
David DuBois |
Ken: If if you are getting current to your starter, but nothing else, the problem is likely a connection on or in your ammeter. The current for all of the electrical components except the starter goes through the ammeter. It is possible for the connections inside the ammeter to look okay but not be sound. Been there! Good Luck Mark |
Mark Evenchick |
Ken, If tests show your switch is at fault the centre 4BA nut at the back has probably come loose. This should be tighted and ten soldered to stop it comming undone. If it isn't soldered or the solder has cracked as a start try tightening it up - you have nothing to loose. Jan T |
J Targosz |
Jan - Thanks for the reminder of that. After 20 some odd years, I had forgotten about the nut. Cheers - Dave |
David DuBois |
Ignition switch revisited...the ignition switch has been pulled, sent to Craig Whitworth (great job, by the way) and reinstalled. The ammeter has been pulled, tested and reinstalled. It is still dead. I'm at a loss. Any suggestions? Thanks. |
Ken Martin |
Ken, perhaps tell us where you are with testing. Are you getting power at the starter switch -- to the brown wire, #33 on the wiring diagram? Do you still get power at the starter? Dennis |
D F Sexton |
What is the key id letters fitted to 1950 TD ie MRN, PA |
Bob |
Start with a voltmeter or sticktester and follow the juice. Use the wiring diagram. Start at the battery- make sure it still has 12V when any load on it, have it tested if any doubt. The ground cable to the battery box must be good, as well as the ground strap from the firewall to the motor (beside the pedal box). With one side of the light or meter grounded, trace the current. It should be hot at the starter switch. Use the diagram to follow the current from the starter switch- one brown wire to the ammeter, the other to the fuse box on later cars, earlier one brown wire to the ammeter. These should be hot at both ends. Continue to trace forward junction by junction, and when you find the dead spot the trouble must be inbetween. |
George Butz |
Ken, Do you have a wirng diagram? Need one? David 55 TF1500 #7427 |
David Sheward |
Thanks to all for the tips and suggestions. The ground strap from the gearbox to the frame was the culprit. I have the car running and a new strap on order. Ken |
Ken Martin |
This thread was discussed between 27/02/2005 and 15/03/2005
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