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MG TD TF 1500 - Ignition switch bezel repaint

Hi All,

I searched the archives and failed to find something describing how to do this...

I have an original ignition switch that needs some paint. The black portion on the bezel needs to be re-done, and possibly the indicators which appear in the window for the headlight part.

I see that one person dismantled theirs and couldn't figure out how to put it back together...

First, how does one take it apart? Do you pry open those two metal prongs on the back, which allows the switch & barrel to be pulled out?

Second, what do people recommend for painting "Lucas" down at the bottom in white? The current lettering is actually fine; it's that some of the other black background on the bezel has disappeared over time.

Thanks,
Scott


Scott

Scott - It sounds like you have an aftermarket switch, the original switches did not have a window for the headlight portion of the switch. That said, I had my switch (original style) restored by Craig Seabrook of the Whitworth Shop in Ohio. His work is a bit pricy, but well worth the money as he returns a supurb product. I don't know if he does the style of switch that you have, but it would be worth a query. His e-mail is seabrook@en.com and his phone is 440-338-5950
Good luck - Dave
David DuBois

Regarding the window part, is that true?

There is a little window at the top of the bezel that indicates "off", "side", "head", depending on the rotary lighting switch setting. That is aftermarket?

If so, then it was an "old" aftermarket, as it has been on the car since before 1978... As far as the switches that are on the car, it was the only original one which came with it (at least I had thought it was original!).

Thanks,
Scott
Scott


David - Scott in WA is correct. T-series never used a window on the switch. I'll bet you your switch knob turns up on a 45 degree angle as well. If so, that is Lucas first or second run reproduction. I am working on restoring some original factory switches now, several are spoken for but I do have a couple that would be for sale. mick
mick c



Scott - Also, FWIW, MRN & FA series keys are the only originals. FS & FP are repro & aftermarket. I thing Pete Groh taught me that one years ago.
mick c

Okay, thanks for letting me know about the switch! I learn multiple things every day reading this BBS.

Back to my original question regarding dismantling for painting... I'm not too squeamish about taking apart an electrical switch (I'm an EE), but I just want to verify that someone has done it before on their own without too much difficulty, and if what I think the steps needed for disassembly are correct. I do know that sometimes things are built rather strangely which can make reassembly a nightmare.

Thanks again,
Scott
Scott

You have to unsolder the rear nut, and the darn thing is difficult to refit together. Craig Seabrook says he can't work on a switch that has been disassembled, but I think that is more preference than dictate.

By the way, my 'incorrect' switch has been on my car since 1979 because I installed it. My original switch has been apart once, and I'm thinking of taking another go at it.

warmly,
dave
Dave Braun

Thanks for the additional info Dave. Having to unsolder a nut does put a new twist on things... Things can accidentally get melted out to be unusable if not done correctly.

Did the "original" switch have the "Lucas" lettering at the bottom of the bezel? I'm inquiring because I'm considering just masking everything off and re-spraying the bezel in-place, and perhaps not putting the lettering back on.

Do you know if Craig puts the original lettering back on?

Thanks (and hopefully that is my last question regarding this!),
Scott
Scott

Scott , I just did two original switches .Complete dissasembly and reasemble .I am a TD Newbie. I've had mine for only four months now It is not easy. Draw yourself some accurate diagrams re. the position of all internal parts relative to external components as you remove them or you will find your key upside down or side ways or worse , immobile, when you are done. It requires patients and attention to detail but is very do-able.Fear of screwing this up is a good thing , it helps you focus! Removing the soldered nut requires an iron or micro torch, but is not difficult.Mine now works better than ever, have had the face re chromed and am having a graphic artist friend make me some decals that match the originals perfectly- just stick them on!Also used some "Great Knobs" on the switch handle . It now looks original( not to new ) Remember an MG TD teaches us many things , not the least of which is patience.
Keith McKenzie

Scott , I just did two original switches .Complete dissasembly and reasemble .I am a TD Newbie. I've had mine for only four months now It is not easy. Draw yourself some accurate diagrams re. the position of all internal parts relative to external components as you remove them or you will find your key upside down or side ways or worse , immobile, when you are done. It requires patients and attention to detail but is very do-able.Fear of screwing this up is a good thing , it helps you focus! Removing the soldered nut requires an iron or micro torch, but is not difficult.Mine now works better than ever, have had the face re chromed and am having a graphic artist friend make me some decals that match the originals perfectly- just stick them on!Also used some "Great Knobs" on the switch handle . It now looks original( not to new ) Remember an MG TD teaches us many things , not the least of which is patience. Cheers,Keith
Keith McKenzie

Scott - Craig Seabrook gets everything rechromed, painted and silk screened to look exactly as original in addition to making sure the switches work properly and polishes the knob. He does absolutely top notch work. Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

Mick, Do you have any info on when Lucas made their first and second run reproductions. My fuzzy old brain remembers the little window on my first 53 TD that, at the time, was only six years old. Is it possible that the switch had already been replaced or is it just one more example of brain fade? My current 53 TD has been through two "restorations" and has the switch with the window. It looks way too good to be an original. Learned something new today to put away in my MG trivia file.

Best regards,

Jim Haskins
J. M. Haskins

Craig Seabrook can also rebuild the window version so that it looks exactly as the original. I don't think that the window version is aftermarket. I think it was made at the same time and used on different cars such as Austin and Standard. I have part of one which I took from a wrecked Austin 8 or 10 in the early 1970s. I just think there were more of them around so they became the after market replacement. Terry
Terry O'Brien

Tim Hotchkiss (www.vintagemotorspares.com) has preprinted stickers that replace the painted portion on the PLC6 switch facia. See part # 343
Lucas PCL6 facia sticker. Printed on self-adhesive vinyl.The quick and easy way to restore the appearance of your switch. Marked Off/S/H at top, LUCAS at bottom.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer
Lew Palmer

Scott,

Another source for the decal is Vintage Motor Spares - see http://www.vintagemotorspares.com/phdi/p1.nsf/supppages/hodge?opendocument&part=4 Look about half-way down the page for item 343. Cost is £2.77.

Gord Clark
Rockburn, Qué.


Gordon A. Clark

oops - just realised I duplicated Lew Palmer's entry.

Sorry Lew.

GAC
Gordon A. Clark

Thanks for the link!

It appears that I could use the vinyl to cover over the window and make the switch appear to be identical to the original one... An interesting option. (I realize there will probably still be a slight difference).

FYI, painting the bezel came out okay (lots of masking). The dash is now put together and I just need to do a few final wires and that part of the project will FINALLY be done!

It feels SO good to have gotten rid of that crappy wooden dash where the main gauges were actually placed *behind* the dash openings, and every single switch was a metal toggle (lights, dash lights, heater, turn signal). And the indicator lights were these strange tiny things...

Scott
Scott

I've used the stick on transfer from Tim Hogkiss and it does a super job - it's simply not worth messing around with masking tape and letraset. He also does cream ones with brown letters - I used to have an Armstrong Siddley wich had cream dial faces and switches.


Jan T
Jan Targosz

This thread was discussed between 21/04/2006 and 26/04/2006

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