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MG TD TF 1500 - Ignition switch reconditioning

Have there been any breakthroughs in reconditioning the faceplace of the ignition switch? I cleaned mine really well and tried painting it black but it looks like crap. Not to mention I have no idea how I was going to replace the lettering.I see Mr. Seabrook rebuilds them but I was hoping to find a way other than sending it to someone else.

Rob
Rob Welborne

Rob, Ton Schreurs from NL, makes a lettering decal that goes over the face of the switch. I bought one from him and messed up the installation. Sent him an image of my work and he responded this way:
***
The decal is not placed nice on your switch. I will sent you a new one for free.

My advice: First give the switch a smooth surface.

Try to put on the old decal in the best position.

After that you can put on the new decal in the best position.
***
IMHO, he's well worth trying. He's at ton.schreurs (at) worldline.nl Bud
Bud Krueger

Rob, here is a picture of an ig/light switch with a new decal. The only difficulty is the switch needs to be dismantled to get the decal under the switch lever. "From the Frame Up" sells them.
Hugh Pite


H.D. Pite

Bud, thank you. Hugh, thank you also and I found it very easy to order from "From the frame up". My decal is on its way. Now all I have to do is not break my ignition swith. Piece of cake, right?????? Yeah i'm dead.

Rob
Rob Welborne

Rob, I'd order at least 2. Before you start I'd suggest taking careful note of where the pointer is aiming in the various settings. The adhesive is absolute. Too bad it can't be done ala formica. Bud
Bud Krueger

Rob when you take it apart can you make some notes & a few sequential pics? I have the decal from Ton, some pics from Patrick Earles & a download from TTT2 on the switch but the author uses jargon which presupposes the novice will know which of the great many oddly named parts is which. The black bakelite comes up really well using a buff. I've rejuvenated a handbrake handle, dizzy cap & the original spark plug caps this way & they look almost brand new yet still retain a little of their patina. Good luck & keep us posted! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I will do just that and let you know.

Rob
Rob Welborne

I wish I had done that before I had put my switch all back together. There wasn't anything on my faceplate but chrome. Newbie me didn't know any better. Not looking forward to tearing it back apart as it was a real Bas---d to get back together. Ugh!
W. A. Chasser Jr

I have done the graphics for that decal. If you want it in a higher resolution let me know. A local printer could do it for you.

Regards
Declan


D Burns

I thought this would be difficult but I found it quite easy. I didn't take any pictures because my son took my camera but they would not have been any better than on ttalk. You need the braided solder wick you can get from any radioshack. Once you remove the solder from the rear nut it is easily removed and the key cylinder may be taken out, you then twist only the bezel to align the tabs with the cut-outs in the plastic housing. I found I had to pull one tab through a slot then align the other two. The entire assembly then comes apart and is obvious to reassembly. Be sure and mark the bezel with the selector so you know where to place the decal. You should really have no problem, mine looks and works great.

Good luck,

Rob
Rob Welborne

Reactivated thread.

Bill, have you pulled your ignition switch apart again? I'm finally about to tackle my PLC 6 & could use any pics or info you (or anybody else) may be able to provide. Emailed the author of the TTT2 article but he is unable to provide any additional info. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Bud re you observation above "The adhesive is absolute. Too bad it can't be done ala formica".

I've just replaced the decals on the 4 instruments & was able to place these perfectly by using another technique I picked up in construction. By using soapy water under the decals I was able to slide them into the desired position & then press any moisture out by working from the centre to the edge. Hoping to use the same approach with the ignition switch. I'll definitely mark the case before I pull it apart to ensure I get it in the correct position. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Windex works great for positioning decals.
I like windex better then soapy water, it doesn't leave any residue and tends to hang better on vertical surfaces.
Spray the surface the decal is being applied to, you can not get it to wet. Peal and position, start in the middle and squeegee the moisture out. I use a rubber spatula that I pulled the handle off of.
G D

Peter

A "solder sucker" might be a better alternative to using "solder wick". Jaycar have a simple bulb type for a few $.
G Evans

Thanks Graeme. I'll try just using some tinned copper wire as this has worked for me in the past. As part of my RAAF training during the Vietnam war (too long ago now to remember) I did a NASA Standard soldering course. Getting rid of the solder is the least of my worries. Still keen to hear from anyone who has recently reassembled one of these beasties. I'm about to return a switch that I just purchased on Ebay from the UK as it arrived with a broken pointer, in spite of assurances that it was absolutely perfect! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Anybody have a pointer for a PLC 6 for sale or know where I can get one? The UK seller has agreed to pay for it IF I can find one. Pic of switch attached. What's not visible in the shot is the broken tip of the pointer. Cheers
Peter TD 5801


P Hehir

Peter,

I have several switches and parts, but alas no spare knobs. However, be aware that not all PLC5 and PLC6 switches had the small pointer tip. Those that used the window often did not have the pointer. Or can you see that the tip is clearly broken?

By the way, I have reconditioned numerous switches and have gotten fairly adept at reassembling them (especially after a novice at it tries and fails to get them back together). Usually this is because they try to put the all together in one go, rather than doing the key switch portion first, and then the face and knob.

Any questions contact me at lew (at) roundaboutmanor (dot) com

Lew Palmer

Yeah, I'm kind of wondering how the heck you'd ever break the tip off in the first place. The handle end I can understand breaking - it's long and you can get some purchase on it to snap it - but the pointer end is tapered and it would seem nearly impossible to break. I'm with Lew, I'd think maybe you have a - ahem - 'pointless' switch. (sorry!) :)
Kevin McLemore

Ahem... Kevin I have 3 switches; the one with the window, lever & no pointer, an original PLC 6 with a black lever & pointer & the one pictured above with a dark brown lever & pointer, probably off a TC. Both of these last two have pointers & levers that are a slightly different shape. Don't ask me how you'd break the tip off the one pictured above but believe me it is chipped on one side of the point. Lew if you can post more detailed info, I & others would really appreciate it as I'm sure we would all benefit from your expertise. Kevin.. what more can I say? Your apology is accepted. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter, no offense meant - anyone who knows me knows I'm not that kind of guy - so I'm sorry you took it that way. Apologies if I offended. I just couldn't see how one might bust the dang thing.

I will, however, offer a suggestion. Instead of looking for a new knob, why not just repair the old one if it's just a chip? Some 2-part polymer filler like PC-7 or JB Weld (or whatever they sell in OZ) would make a really nice repair - I've even re-constructed whole sections of steering wheels successfully with the stuff. Mix up a small bit, press it into your chipped area and use lightly moistened fingers to mould it to nearly the right shape... then let it kick off and once it's hard use a small file (nail files work great for roughing it out) to shape the patch properly. Then follow with progressively finer sand papers until you get a smooth fninsh. Once it's the way you like it, lightly sand the entire knob with 400 or finer paper and spray with semi-gloss black (Krylon and Rustoleum both make it). Once the paint is fully dry (several days), wax it with butcher's wax or carnuba wax (good car wax). The finish will be a perfect match for the original and you'll have it looking like new for many years to come.

Hope this helps!
Kevin McLemore

Oh, and if you need flat dark brown instead of black (i.e. a natural Bakelite finish), you could use military flat paints (by Testor's - found at a hobby / model building shop) and mix the exact color of brown you need. You could then either thin it with mineral spirits and brush it on (it will smooth out nicely if you use light coats), or you could use an airbrush. Same follow up - wax with a natural wax once the paint has fully dried.
Kevin McLemore

Not offended in the least Kevin. Just my quirky Oz sense of humour which is often misunderstood! May also have something to do with my Celtic origins. Good suggestion re the repair. I was always concerned about how to reproduce the black finish. The filler bit is not a problem. If your approach produces a durable & original looking result I'm tempted to give it a go. I may have tracked down an original pointer. Will keep you all posted.

Also had further warnings on just how difficult the thing is to reassemble & that Moss (& presumably the LBC as they sell Moss gear) were flogging a switch that produces smoke, with the added bonus that the black finish on the pointer/lever comes off on your hand .. Nice one.. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

If all else fails there are reproduction switches available, The problem I see with them is that the key is different in appearance. They are available from Retro-classic parts. I have no affiliation with them.
Max Irvine

Thanks Max. As long as the repros aren't from the same source Moss used they're probably worth a look, however I much prefer to repair/restore rather than replace. I'm something of a Luddite in that respect as I've found all too often on the TD that the repro either doesn't fit, looks wrong or just doesn't do the job. A respected Newcastle (NSW) restorer published an article in TSO about 45 years ago on restoring the ignition switch pointer, which I still have, pretty much as Kevin suggested above. In fact he used to own my car from 1962 to 1967! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

G'day Lew,

Many questions on the switch. Have a copy of Bob Butson's article which appeared in TTT2 in 2011, Patrick Earle's pics of the version with the window & lots of words of caution from many others who have tried & failed.

I contacted Bob requesting more detailed info & some clearer pics. His response was to send it to the Whitworth Shop. Whatever you can contribute to the TD fraternity would be really appreciated. My questions include:

How do you reassemble it?
Can a loose cylinder be refurbished?
How does wire help in assembling the thing?
Do you have sequential assembly pics?
Can you identify the various components & the order in which they are assembled?
How do you ensure their correct orientation?
Do you have detailed instructions?
Which parts if any usually need replacing?
What lubrication do you recommend during assembly?
Which parts if any are best left unlubricated?
What is the SRBP washer Bob refers to?
What is the SRBF washer?
What is the Mazak lock body cover?
What are the circlip cover, the ignition contact ring & the dished metal cover?

I could go on but I think you get the point...

Obviously taking great care when taking the thing apart may answer some of the above but the comment that you "end up with a pile of parts in your hand" doesn't inspire confidence. To ensure I can succeed I need the answers to these questions at least. Cheers
Peter TD 5801

P Hehir

I have no idea where this pic came from but this is what I'd like to avoid! Cheers
Peter TD 5801


P Hehir

Peter,
That poor owner will have to refill his wiring loom with new Lucas smoke, it looks like it got out at once.
Max Irvine

Have had a detailed response from Lew with pics to follow tomorrow. Thanks mate. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The following is from Lew. I've added the numbers & the legend on the pic. Hopefully it should now be plain sailing.

PLC 6 REASSEMBLY

To reassemble the switch first start with the key switch contact “bridge” (1) (also known as the ignition contact ring). Drop those into the recess in the body first, followed by the metal cover (2) and the spring (3).

Add the bottom half of the lock barrel (4). Note there is a small brass button on the cylinder (5) and a corresponding hole in the bottom half. Push the brass button to release the barrel (5a) from the bottom half. Now put the bottom half into the key switch assembly (6), making sure the straight sides of the bottom half engages with the corresponding shape in the contact “bridge”.

Now put the nut on the thread which should emerge from the back of the switch. It should be snug, but not overly tight.

Finally add the hollow lock barrel (5b) (with the two tabs, also known as the Mazak lock body cover) into the two slots in the body. (During disassembly check & ensure that it isn’t broken. Be careful here, as that thing is unbelievably fragile. If the tabs are at all bent over at the back of the switch, do not try to remove it as you will break the tabs off! With one tab broken, you can still use it but if both tabs are broken then the switch is toast!) Note that there is a cut out section which needs to go over the key switch stop (7).

Drop the brass contacts (8) into the switch body making sure the contact plate (9) engages with the molded stop in the body. This is what provides the stop for the lighting switch and does not allow it to go too far clockwise or counterclockwise.

Follow this by the phenolic insulator disc (10) and the spring (11) with the large spring end first.

This should be followed by the face plate (12) with the knob (13) and retainer (14) already attached. The cupped shaped keeper (15) should be fitted with the concave side facing the back of the switch.

Now, ensuring you have the 4 projections on the back of the knob lined up with the corresponding 4 “holes” in the contact plate (9) and phenolic plate (10), press the two halves together. Rotate the knob (13) a little to get it to drop into the contact and phenolic plate. Also make sure the lettering on the switch is properly aligned. There is likely only one way the 3 or 4 tabs on the face plate (12) will line up with the notches on the switch body, so get these to align.

Now squeeze the two halves of the whole assembly together so the tabs engage with the notches and the face is fully home. When it is properly home, give the face a slight counterclockwise twist so the tabs now rest in the slight detents.

The last thing to do is to put the key in the lock barrel (5a) and ease it into the barrel bottom half (4).

(Text by Lew Palmer)

Cheers
Peter TD 5801



P Hehir

Just acquired a partly disassembled ignition switch, one of the Moss type that produces smoke, but with an undamaged knob, which is the bit I need. No case, but also no key as it's MIA, so it's difficult if not impossible to remove the cylinder. Any suggestions? Locksmith? Drill it out? Small explosive charge? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Correction to one of my posts above. Seems the black finish that comes off was on the bezel face not the pointer. Inspection shows that the chrome was not prepped or primed before painting. As mentioned above this was also one of the ones that smoked. The knob/pointer however looks great! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

As I told you in a private email, by removing the nut at the back of the switch and removing the face plate, you should be able to pull the whole lock barrel loose from the front. Just be careful when you pull it loose that you don't break the tabs on the barrel./
Lew Palmer

Lew. There is no nut, no body. See pic attached. This is how I bought it. The only things I can remove are the spring, insulating ring & the ring that the spring sits in. There is only 3/16" of lock mechanism movement.

"Once the lock mechanism is out of the body, you should be able to push down on the tumbler pins to remove the barrel from the lock". Agreed. Problem is I can't get that far. I believe I need the key to remove the lock mechanism as it's not going anywhere... Bob Butson states this in his set of instructions. As this is my first attempt at an ignition switch I'm looking for ways to separate the lock mechanism from the knob without a key. Cheers
Peter TD 5801




P Hehir

Peter

I think you are going to have to practice some attrition measures and only salvage the one component that you require. Otherwise the escutcheon cover should have a number engraved in it, keys are often available on Fleabay.
G Evans

Success! After a couple of frustrating hours trying a number of approaches I was finally able to remove the lock mechanism from the knob without using a key.

I inserted a very fine jewelers screwdriver into the key escutcheon (no numbers as it was a fairly recent Moss replacement, why no numbers? who knows..) & by jiggling it about I was able to depress all 5 tumblers. Using a couple of fine 20mm panel pins inserted between the lock body cover & the cylinder to keep them depressed, I was then able to move the lock mechanism sufficiently to then remove the lock body cover. The cylinder was then easily extracted. Removing the lower half of the cylinder was more difficult than anticipated. I used a jolt head nail about the same diameter as the brass pin hole with the point rounded off with a Geneva file. I was then able to depress the brass pin & move the pieces apart sufficiently so that the cylinder could then be gently separated into the top & bottom halves. On reassembly this pin & the housing will get some Vaseline or similiar to make any subsequent removal easier.

Thanks for your help Lew. After studying both sets of instructions it's clear you & Bob use very different approaches to reassembly. I think your method is more likely to achieve success for the first timer & is the one I'll use. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Glad you finally won the battle, Peter.
Lew Palmer

Just the battle Lew.. yet to win the war!

Hi again Lew & other interested parties.

Based on my observations on disassembling my PLC6 switch (FA 525), I’ve modified the text that you initially sent & that I'd posted above. There are also a couple of differences with Bob’s PLC2. The sequence & location of the retainer (14) & orientation of the keeper (15) are the major ones. Also my switch, which I’m pretty certain has never been apart (see pics) has no phenolic insulator disc (10) & the position of the small insulator (1b) in Bob’s PLC2 which he suggests sits on top of the small end of the small spring (3) was directly above the thick phenolic insulator (1a ) on my switch, which in turn sat on top of the brass contact bridge (1).

The brass button (4a) differs from the one in the dud Moss repro as mine has a small spring (4b) which also protrudes & unfortunately makes your much preferred assembly method impossible. Also I’ve ordered a small pack of brass 6BA hex nuts (10 for $2.90) which should arrive next week enabling me to do away with the solder. The nut can then be permanently secured by using just two nuts.

The text & pics follow. You’ll note the ½” copper pipe fitted to (5b) which I used as a form when applying the metal magic in an attempt to reduce the width of the worn window.

PLC 6 REASSEMBLY

(A) To reassemble the switch first start with the key switch contact bridge assembly (1), also known as the ignition contact ring. This consists of a circular brass bridge & two insulated washers (1a) & (1b). Place this assembly into the recess in the body first, followed by the metal cover (2) with its projections facing the back of the switch, then fit the spring (3).


(B) There is a small brass button (4a) protruding from the lower part of the cylinder lock barrel (5) into a corresponding hole in the bottom half of the lock barrel (4). On some switches there is also a protruding spring (4b). Insert the key & depress the brass button (4a) to release the cylinder lock barrel (5) from the bottom half (4).Be careful not to lose the spring(4b)!. Apply a little Vaseline internally to (5), (5a) & (4) as an aid to final assembly & then check that it reassembles easily. Separate both items (4) & (5) again. (If both the spring & the brass button protrude too far thus preventing the use of this assembly method, then disregard the following paragraph (c).)


(C) Insert the bottom half (4) into the key switch assembly (6), making sure the straight sides of the lock barrel bottom half (4) engages with the corresponding shape in the switch contact bridge assembly (1) & put the nut on the thread which emerges from the back of the switch. It should be snug, but not overly tight. During disassembly check & ensure that the tabs aren’t broken. Be careful here, as the tabs are unbelievably fragile. If the tabs are at all bent over at the back of the switch, it may be possible to very gently straighten them enough to remove the cover. Great care must be used here! With one tab broken it can still be used but if both tabs are broken then the switch is toast!


(D) Position the hollow lock barrel (5b) with the two tabs, also known as the Mazak lock body cover, into the two slots in the body. Note that there is a deep cut out section on the body cover (5b) which needs to go over the key switch stop (7). Place the brass contact plate (8) into the switch body making sure the contact plate cutout (9) engages with the molded stop in the body. This is what provides the stop for the lighting switch and prevents it from going too far clockwise or counterclockwise. Follow this with the phenolic insulator disc (10), if fitted.


(E) Assemble the bezel face plate (12), the knob (13) and then the U shaped knob retainer (14). The cupped shaped keeper (15) slips over & secures the retainer (14). Note that the retainer (14) must be fitted first. The keeper (15) will have its convex side facing the back of the switch. The decal must also be applied before (12), (13), (14) & (15) are assembled. Finally fit the circular insulator (10a) and then the large spring (11), with the small spring end first, to the back of the knob.


(F) It’s critical to ensure you have the 4 projections on the back of the knob (13) lined up with the corresponding 4 cutouts in the brass contact plate (9) and phenolic plate (10) if fitted. It will be noted these projections & cutouts are different sizes. Now gently press the two halves together. Rotate the knob (13) a little to get it to drop into the contact plate (9) and phenolic insulator disc (10). There is only one way the 3 tabs on the face plate bezel (12) will line up with the 3 notches on the switch body, so check to ensure the lettering on the bezel face plate (12) is properly aligned with the body of the switch. The OFF position should be marked on the switch body prior to disassembly.


(G) Now squeeze the two halves of the whole assembly together so the 3 tabs engage with their notches. Ensure the face plate (12) is fully home. While maintaining even pressure give the face a ½” counterclockwise twist so that the three bezel tabs rest in their slight detents. Now put the key in the cylinder lock barrel (5) and ease it into the lock barrel bottom half (4) if it has already been fitted as described in para (c). If not, install the fully assembled cylinder lock barrel (5) & lock barrel bottom half (4) using the key. Check the switch operation mechanically then secure the nut with a dab of solder or preferably use two 6BA brass hex nuts.


Refer also to the numbered pic above. Hope this helps those of you who like me were intimidated by this piece of Lucas magic. All that remains now is to actually put it together! 3 Pics to follow. Cheers
Peter TD 5801




P Hehir

Pic 2


P Hehir

Pic 3


P Hehir

Pic 4


P Hehir

Pic 5. Shows detail of the contact bridge assembly after removal.


P Hehir

SUCCESS!

Ignition switch is now assembled. While looking through my collection of pics, many from this site, I came across some from George Raham which showed his method of disassembly. His pics showed the contents of the switch during removal still attached to the face plate. As I'd tried to use the process outlined in the post above with no success I then came up with my own method. I assembled the face plate including the complete cylinder, large circular insulator & lock body cover. I laid the brass contact bridge, the 2 insulators, the cover piece & the small spring in the body, then placed the large brass contact plate in situ. I compressed the large spring & used two twist ties from a loaf of bread to secure it. The tails poked out of the two slots in the body. After ensuring alignment as suggested by both Lew & Bob I was able to assemble the unit with ease. Once the face plate tabs had been located in their indents I untwisted the two ties & pulled them out with a pair of pliers. Job done!

I'm about to recondition the other switch & this time I plan to use the correct MRN cylinder & key, rechrome the bezel & use the decal from AS. Ton's decal works well but a close examination of the U in LUCAS shows it differs slightly from the original. Declan Burns also has artwork for the decal which is spot on.

Thanks again to Bob, Lew, Ton & George without whose contributions I'd never have been able to achieve this. Pic attached. Cheers
Peter TD 5801


P Hehir

The pics didn't come from George Raham! Wrong again.. Whoever posted them thank you! Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

The pic below came from the series supplied by ...


P Hehir

I was successful in rebuilding the ignition switch and used a decal for the faceplate. However, I had a problem that would not go away, so I ended up sending the switch to Craig Seabrook. It turns out "the problem" was not the switch after all, but I ended up with a superbly refurbished switch with all degraded parts replaced, keys re-plated, and, most importantly, a beautifully painted faceplate. I found the decal unsatisfactory. I consulted with a few silkscreen types, and nobody knew how to re-paint the faceplate. I don't know how he does it, but Craig does an incredible job. In my opinion, the paint job alone is worth the effort and cost to send it to him, especially for those going for points.

FYI, "the problem" I had was that the ignition would come on even with the switch off. It turns out that dim light and aging eyes were responsible for placing the horn fuse (unswitched) in contact with the ignition fuse (switched): the fuse fits quite nicely outside the fuse holder clasps, between the clasps and the other fuse. Corroded surfaces made the problem intermittent.

Kind of lame, for sure, but it all ended well.
J Barry

JB I'm also a fan of Craig Seabrook as he was kind enough to send me a screw for my glove box door knob free of charge! He also provided me with his catalogue which is a very impressive document. Earlier in this thread Hugh Pite posted a pic of a switch showing a decal from "From The Frame Up" with lettering that I think looks terrific. Can you post a pic of your refurbed switch & key please? It would be useful to compare the two. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter,

I'm afraid I don't take as many pictures as I should, and am now geographically separated from my car so I can not post a comparison. I had the same decal, and it is okay, but given the detail of your restoration I suspect you will not be happy with it in the long run. I could have lived with the decal, but there is really no comparison with painted surface. The re-plated key was a nice surprise. I really didn't think I would care about it - it's definitely a minor sort of thing, but was pleased when I saw the results. Craig also re-chromes the bezel. He kind of insists on doing all this to make it right. Gotta let the artisans do their thing!

Jim
J Barry

As I'm now up to speed on restoring PLC6 switches (thanks principally to Lew Palmer) if anyone would like a copy of my latest method (based on restoring 5 switches), complete with a detailed parts breakdown & a labeled pic, email me at pjbm at bigpond dot com.

As I've had no luck in finding a couple of black horizontal lever/knobs to restore two of my recent Ebay acquired switches, I'd like to try adding the missing tiny pointer. I thought I'd insert a very fine screw in the correct position & then use a goop of some sort, either JB Weld or body filler to cover it & then shape the pointer, but I would like to colour the bog black so that when finally sanded to the correct profile I could then buff it. I don't want to have to paint it black (great song by the way!) so I'd like to add something into the filler to give me a buffable black so that the repair is not evident. Any suggestions for a compatible black filler/colour combo? Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

I should have mentioned the series of pics taken on the red timber table are from Patrick Earles. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Reactivating. Bud
Bud Krueger

Thanks Bud. A quick update. My pic above of FA 525 shows my lock incorrectly inserted. The letters should be on the right & the numbers on the left, when the switch is viewed from the front. Also the decal is the one from Ton which has the incorrect "U". Both of these issues have now been addressed. If using a decal I'd recommend a couple of light coats of clear lacquer prior to installation as I found the white lettering was all too easily removed with handling. I mentioned this a few months ago to FTFU & they were taking this up with their supplier. I've also further refined the reassembly process with a clearer numbered parts pic & an even more efficient assembly method. As mentioned above if anyone would like a copy please email me at pjbm at bigpond dot com. I'm still in the market for levers like the one pictured of FA 525 (the one from the dud Moss switch fits perfectly), for MRN or FA locks and/or Wilmot Breeden Union keys. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Tim you have mail. Cheers
Peter TD 5801
P Hehir

Peter

Found your write up and saw the images - please disregard my earlier request
this is great info and help
Michael
Michael Balahutrak

Peter
However if you do have a comprehensive updated file on this switch rebuild - I would appreciate it

Thank you
Michael
Michael Balahutrak

This thread was discussed between 30/07/2014 and 14/01/2023

MG TD TF 1500 index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG TD TF 1500 BBS is active now.