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MG TD TF 1500 - Installed engine and gearbox (for Huib)

I didn't want to thread-jack Tom on his timbers question, but this popped up from our friend Huib:

"Huib Bruijstens, Holland
Hello Dave (Braun)
you wrote "..installed engine and gearbox yesterday". Does this implement that you did close the sump?? In another thread you mentioned some days ago something like "will I ever close the sump". So, what gave you the courage to do it now? Did you install the old type of sealings or an improved one?
Wish you luck and a lot of fun with the timberwork.
Best regards, Huib Bruijstens"

I did close up the sump using the single piece seal on the front of the crankshaft, and the old archimedes screw on the rear seal. Of the two, I'm pretty nervous about the rear, but what the heck... The hesitancy of closing the sump was due to safetying the main bearing and big end nuts on the crank. I finally decided that there was no way the main bearings nuts were coming loose, and even if I safetied them with cotter pins, the whole stud could back out if it wanted to. The big end rod bearing nuts I used safety wire on, although, I would like to practice more before I called myself adequate. I think in retrospect, I should have just left all the safetying off all together, but I'll see what happens.

Thanks for the good wishes Huib!

http://www.mysteryship.photosite.com/MGTDRebuild/engine/?page=24

dave
Dave Braun

Dave... that is such a great group of photos... not to mention the job your doing on the car.....
gordon lawson - TD 27667

WOW what a great photo documentation! I got about a third of the way through it but bookmarked it. Just had yo chuckle at how many cans of varnish it took to do the steering wheel. I really like your parts tumbler also. Where does one find one of those? It looks like you're doing a very fine job.
D Clark

Thanks Gordon. I'm not afraid of doing things several times before I get the job right, and believe me... I think by the time I'm 'finished' I'll have rebuilt the car three times!

Mr. Clark, Thank you for your kind comments. I considered just oiling the wheel, but I got out all my varnish cans I've worked with in the past few years until I found a varnish I liked. You are the first person who got my joke of leaving all the cans out! The tumbler is from Eastwood, their part number 43204:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/search/searchresultsmain.jsp?fresh=1&searchType=advanced&iMainCat=0&iSubCat=0&attribute14=0&attribute15=0&attribute16=0&RS=1&keyword=43204

I'm about the fourth or fifth person in our T-Register to get one, we all like them.

Dave
Dave Braun

Dear Dave,
what a great demonstration of your project! Very helpful set of pictures. Thanks for it.
I noticed that you not only closed the sump but also took the hardly irreversable step to put the engine into the chassis with your one-day hoist. Looks as if you killed all possible doubts in this way very firmly. My sump is still open and about to be closed soon. So, i really live through this kind of thoughts and nightly wake-ups. All part of the excitement.
Ferom the pictures i saw that you installed the engine first and assembled the gearbox later to it. So far, i thought to first put them together and than put it as a whole in/on the chassis. Is it easier the way you did it?
Best regards, Huib Bruijstens
Huib Bruijstens

Dave, just a quick note regarding oil/varnish. I picked up some Tung oil which i had used on a banjo i made a ton of years ago... Was going to wax it after a hundred coats or so, but found that using 600 grit and having maple/mahogany, the surface didn't soak up like some cherry i have done. After about 10 coats, it took on an amazing shine...gloss even. Try some on some well sanded hardwood... really a hard surface.
You apply, wait 10 minutes, wipe off, then polish with your hands...for about 5 minutes... the heat helps. Tung is magic stuff....
I would post another photo but i think i overdid it with the construction photos.....
(will put one up when i install it in the car)
gordon lawson - TD 27667

Gordon,

I think your knowledge of wood and finishing exceeds mine by about 1000%. I enjoyed the 'excessive' photos.

Huib,

If you install the engine and position a jack and a board to support the engine sump, you can then take two used manifold studs and place them at the 10 and two o'clock positions in the sump. Sliding the gearbox on is a snap and the studs guide and support the gearbox and save the input shaft. I used a piece of cardboard to protect the rear mount while I slid the gearbox. It seemed easier than trying to do it with the engine on the floor or some such thing after I took the engine off the stand, and I didn't have to worry about clearing the scuttle bar.

I hope this helps.

dave
Dave Braun

my error, the 10 and two o'clock positions will place the studs in the block, not the sump... sorry for typing before thinking

dave
Dave Braun

DAVE

I am also a fan of having the aluminum on the timing chain cover and the pan unfinished. I think is is a great look.

I know there are tons of ointson the use of the standard seals, but I think it is somewhat of a craps shoot. My last engine did not leak more than a drip or to in the 30 years I have had it.

I hope the replacement engine is as good. It has the new seal in it.
Bruce Cunha

I cheated though Bruce. I sprayed them with a heat resistant (300 degree F) aluminum paint. The remote gear lever and the bellhousing were in better shape, I left them alone.

Now that little bellhousing bolt that doubles as a place to locate the breather tube bracket? The threads must have been just about gone. I think I need to take out the transmission and helicoil it. Nuts.

dave
Dave Braun

This thread was discussed between 01/11/2005 and 03/11/2005

MG TD TF 1500 index

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