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MG TD TF 1500 - Intermittently starts
Recently developed problem that the car starts only intermittently. Had problems with the high beams not working. Went into the shop and wondering if by fixing the hi beam it a created a short? The battery cables were cleaned and has charged battery. Car started enoung to drive it 50 meters, parked and shut off. Then again, it will not start. I wonder if it could be the ignition switch that is causing the problem. How domi check power is getting from the battery to the ignition? |
P.D. Crevello |
The coil has a white wire on one terminal. This is the 12V feed from the ignition switch. A volt meter connected between this point and ground should show 12V to ground. Jim B. |
JA Benjamin |
P.D., When you say it will not start, do you mean that the engine will not turn over?/ Or does it turn over but will not run??? If it turns over but will not run, take out a spark plug, and ground it to the block,,, can you see a spark at the plug when the engine is turned over?? |
STEVE WINCZE |
If you suspect that it's a switch issue, it's easy to prove. Bypass the switches. Hot wire it. You need to have the 12 volts in two places, the ignition and the fuel pump. Take a clip lead, or something similar, and connect it directly from the ungrounded terminal of you battery to the white wire on either the coil or the fuel pump. If the car starts, you have a switch problem. If not, it's somewhere else. Be careful with that jumper wire -- remember it's tied directly to the battery. Bud |
Bud Krueger |
If your ignition warning lamp lights up and the fuel pump clicks when you turn the key, then your switch works fine. The best method to work on this type of fault is using a 12volt lamp in a socket and flying leads. Start by putting one lead on the distributor (white wire) and the other to ground, then switch on the ignition, if doesn't light then trace back to the coil, etc. John |
J Scragg |
Where are you in CO? |
efh Haskell |
Thanks for all the responses. This is my first entry and I am very pleased with the immediate comments. To be clear, the engine happily turn over, but the red ignition dash light does not light up and fuel pump does not work. Would this be the ignition switch or do I need to trace back to the coil. |
P.D. Crevello |
Could be a number of places. Do you have a wiring diagram and know how to use one? Check all connections on the back of the switch, fuse box (regulator is fuses on it - the 9 post one), and everywhere else. Is your car a TD- dash or floor dimming- or TF? The wiring is different. George |
George Butz |
The grub screws on back of the switch are prone to internitten contact also. (Had one that drove me crazy) IMHO: The worst enemey of what some call "The Standard Lucas Operational Modes" (Off/Dim/Flicker/Ignite) is clean contacts and a little dielectric grease. I have found it to be quite a robust system if everything is clean & greased against corosion. Welcome to the group! Let us know how you get along. If you don't have a wirring diagram let us know what car you have, (TD/TF) and we will figure a way to get you one via email. Cheers, David |
David Sheward |
The lack of "ignition lamp" and melody of the fuel pump are strong hints there's no juice to the ignition. "the engine happily turn over, but the red ignition dash light does not light up and fuel pump does not work. Would this be the ignition switch" Could be the ignition switch. Turn it on and off a dozen times or so and watch for the ignition warning light & listen for the fuel pump. Do you still have headlights/taillights... ammeter still responding to the lights? If so, the hot wire to the switch is still conducting. If not, check connections & voltage back at the regulator. If alls well at the regulator, dive under the dash with a flashlight checking connections. If there were "bullet connections" anywhere in this circuit, they'd be suspect, but you probably won't find any. Good Luck, JIM |
Jim Northrup |
This thread was discussed between 30/05/2012 and 01/06/2012
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